Discussion in 'Hot Air (non-intercooled) Tech' started by mccallumfam1, Jun 9, 2012.
You pay for shipping and i will send you a good 84-85 modular
sure that sounds good, If its a working ignition module then I will definitely be interested. I live in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada I will pay to have it priority posted aswell, How much do u want for it and how do I get you the cash? I have a paypal account setup, do you? Send me a contact number and I can call you anytime. My full address is 1-214 Lindsay Place, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada, S7H-3E6. You can also call me at 3063734149 thanks man
From what I read, the car dies when you are coming to a stop after the car is fully warmed up. It does not do this until the car is not fully warmed up.
It starts back up and it runs fine, it's just that as you come to a stop, it dies? If this is correct, then try shifting to neutral as you come to a stop and see
if it stays running in neutral. If it does, what you have is the transmission torque convertor clutch, or TCC solenoid hanging up and stalling the motor
by keeping the lockup clutch engaged. It's like bringing a manual transmission car to a stop without depressing the clutch.
It may die as you put it back in gear so be prepared for that.
After market TCCs are available and are not too hard to change but you have to drain the trans to get to it.
I kind of dont think its the tcc, It runs ok when the rpms are up and as soon as they drop down, for what ever reason, stop light, stop sign ao traffic it stalls. But only when I have been driving it for an half hr or so. Not all the time just when its hot. I also tried to put it in nuetral and it still stalls like there is just no spark, I pull over when it does stall and try to restart it and it doesnt start, Just like there is no spark, There is fuel in the rails, I touch the moduel and it is scorching hot. I Pop the hood and let the engine cool for 5-10 mins and it fires back up and im good for another lil bit until it gets warm again, ???
Yes it doesn't sound like the TCC is your problem. It sounds like you have another ignition module on the way to try.
I hope it helps.
Under the hood everything gets hot. I've never felt my coilpack/ignition module but I'd guess it gets hot too.
Maybe not sizzle spit hot but I'd guess nearly as hot as the engine.
I would think if it were shorted out or something, it would blow a fuse. Maybe something inside opens an electrical
connection when it gets hot. But I wonder why it just dies at low RPMs?
I found the part today .. I am going to send you the coil pack that it goes with as well ... I dont need it either
I have a stock MAF as well you need a spare? going to see if I can get it in the same box
sweet, If u want to throw Maf in the box that would be ok but I dont need it. How can I get u some cash? Let me know thanks
I'm not trying to steal this from anyone but im very interested, i've done the no start tests and it all points to a bad module, if you have one availabe please message me, i will need to get one or switch to the 86/87 module, because im not sure if this is my problem id rether just go with an 84. Im a bit confused because my snapon scan tool reads no communication. Ive recently replaced my ecm and so im not sure whats going on. I replaced my caspars cs sensor with the light because it wasnt flashing with a stock one that was working when i replaced it with the caspars cap. now ive done the tests and im hoping its the module. if you or anyone else has one Please let me know. Thanks so much, if anyone else has an idea please chime in. P.s. someone from Tacoma Wa messaged me and was cool with there offer to help with my header issue. I thoughtI messaged him back but never got a reply. If you read this send me another message, Id like to talk. Thanks again.
Shipped today ( Coil and Module)
Check your PM
Sweet I will make the paypal transaction today and much appeciated
You mentioned your coil pack gets scorching hot. That is a relative term.
So, just for grins, we took the 85 out last night for some errands. 20 mins to a store, 20 mins parked, 10 mins to another store, 10 mins parked, 10 mins home.
I put a meat thermometer and a towel on top the coil pack and 5 mins later it read 155 degrees. So they get quite warm. It won't sizzle spit but you wouldn't
want to keep your hand on it.
So if you want to try this, it can give you an idea if your coil pack is getting too warm.
I respectfully suggest, that you might have more luck with starting your own posts. Maybe one about the module & coil you'd like to get and then another about your header issue.
Or maybe PM, mccullamfarm1, and if the module he is getting doesn't fix his problem, maybe he'll send it on to you for shipping costs.
Update, I got a known good module put in and its the same dam sh*t, Runs good til it gets hot then dies when the RPM's get low. When I bought the car the previous owner said he replaced the plugs, wires, coil, catalytic delete,84 ecm with 86 ECM and also some front end work like ball joints and tie rods, Since Ive owned it, we changed the tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, brakes, coil, module, plugs, temp sensor, 02 sensor, 84-85 MAF, Alternator and some vacuum lines, I also took off the throttle body and cleaned up the IAC, It idles at 11-1200 when cold and drops down to 900-1000rpm when warmed up. It seems to idle really high and shifts hard when I put it in gear. The Service engine light has been on the whole time I owned it and there are no other lights that go on, also it seems to have longer crank times when starting, Im getting low on drive to keep my project going but I will always have hope. All lights and electronics seem to be ok and the wiring looks alright aswell ? I really dont know what direction to go, I do know the heat has alot to do with it but I cant figure it out. Any more ideas?
Vaporlock - Most likely "No"
Crank Sensor - "Maybe" . . . . .
But before you throw more $$ at the car . . . . Not sure if you verified Fuel pressure, IAC and TPS
What does the fuel pressure do when the car dies?
See links for IAC and TPS settings.
If you plan on keeping this car for a while, get a scantool.
I adjusted reset the IAC and put the TPS within the proper perimeter's, they where close but adjusted them a bit. Fired it up then the rpms where high, adjusted the idle screw, Had the rpms around 800, ran fine it did not shift hard into gear, drove around for a half hr, pulled into my parking stall, it started to stall and die out, the engine was nice and hot, a minute later I tried to fire it up, It fired up and rpms where back up to 1200, but now there was a loud lifter tick, ran like that for a min then died out again and made a loud coughing sound like it never did before. I will try to find a way to regulate the pressure in the fuel lines.......... any more ideas? whatever it is it always happens when it gets hot
You have replaced most of the critical items. (Did not re-read the whole thread.)
There are a few questions left:
Does this happen when the car goes into closed loop?
When the car stalls, does it loose spark, injector pulse, or FP?
Does it start right away, or does it need to cool down?
The car needs to cool down before it will start again, maybe like 2 mins then it starts up and runs rough for a few seconds, then the rpms go back to 1200. I am not firmilar with the term closed loop. I will see what the fuel pressure does when it dies on me today, would you recommend changing my fuel press regulator and would the 84 MAF work with the 86 ECM? thanks jerryl
84 MAF should work with the 87 ECM for the sake of the diagnostics. You may also have god success with it.
Closed loop is when the ECM controls fuel via the feedback it gets form the O2 sensor, when the engine reaches a certain temp as set in the chip.
When it cits out, is it like turning the key . . . . or???
At this point, I am thinking . . . . maybe you are loosing power to the ECM and it is resetting. The ECM looses track of the IAC and it idels high . . . but it should come down faily quick. . . . . So there may be multiple issues left to resolve.
Were you able to get the car to idle at 500 RPM when resetting the IAC? If you were, The IAC may be sticking/dirty.
Are the ground cables under the AC compressor tight and clean?
Once it stalls, if it does not start when you try to restart, pull a plug wire and see if you get spark.
when it cuts out it stumble's and has irattic idle and just dies, its not like shutting the key off, When I did the iac reset I took the throttle body off and cleaned the IAC very good, couldnt get the rpms that low only like 800-900rpms, when i was done setting the perimeters in the tps it surged up and down for a minute then stayed at a constant idle. Ran great with the rpms at 800-900 rpms, until i got home then stumbled and died. I will check to see if the grounds under the ac comp are clean and tight. Also I tested my old module , it failed, And got a module off of Esasky from this forum and just put it on after I got it assuming that one worked, took it off today got it tested and that also failed. I have a 86-87 that passed so I will order a caspers adapter and plate to compete the conversion to see if that helps, For the conversion is the 86-87 module, coil, ecm, caspers adapter and plate all that is needed or do I have to upgrade the MAF to the LT1 with a translator aswell??? thanks man much appreciated
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