Is this a grenade with the pin pulled???

I ran into a car yesterday that has the older style FAST. It has the grey box, not an XFI. It has the wideband in the stock 02 location, no knock sensor, and no IAT sensor on it. The front cover was removed to reseal and I helped set the cam sensor with the caspers cam sensor cap. Was it OK to use that? The car started but the light wasn't acting the same way it does on a stock ECM car. The car had been tuned prior to the cover reseal and does not use correction from the wideband when running. Is this car going to have issued down the line or is it just build against some of the typical stand alone basics?

Just use the WB to get close then read the plugs for the fine tuning. No need for a knock sensor either if you can read the plugs after each pass.

Thanks Gentlemen!! I will dig deeper into this and post back results.

The AF could be out as much as 1 whole number due to back pressure on the sensor I have the data for that some where.

Out as lean or rich?

The wideband sensor will not work correctly when it has high pressure applied to it. It needs to be moved into the downpipe.

That's what I thought but this car has about 15 dyno pulls on it and makes good power. Now I'm scared to see it run the quarter with the things I now know about it. The air temp thing bothers me the most. Even with the correction factor off via the wideband, it will still make adjustments to fuel and timing if it sees a change in air temp? I would think it would but I'm "green" on standalone cars.

I have a extra bung if you need it.

There is nothing wrong with the older classic fast box or in my case I was running a older speed pro box(before they changed their name to fast) and went 9.57 with it so I would say they work. Just the tune that is put in them.

OK...update. this is my first time using a fast. It took a picture of the MAP(kpa) vs RPM timing map. I put those 18.0 boxes in there they were 25* and more as you move to the left and downward. It was supposed to be pump gas friendly but I beg to differ. The top line I put the 18g boxes in is 138kpa... Isn't that around 19-20 psi? Remember the car has no knock sensor or correction on. Also the air temp sensor is in the factory location.
Here are my next questions... why does the (MAPpsi) read 7" of vacuum at idle and the gauge shows 14-15"? If this is off can I correct it?
Can I change the map to read MAPpsi vs Rpm? That would make it easier to do away from the car.

Any suggestions welcome. I'm trying to avoid this car going boom. It was just reassembled...do you need to ask why seeing what the map was before my 18* changes. But I must admit, I kinda like the way you can change stuff on the fly and do other cool stuff!

The owner has the original gct file in an email

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I think with fast you are stuck with kpa

sorry for the three pics...being up till 3am does that...

your gauge is reading out in units of inch/hg , the conversion to psi is roughly 1/2

and the ve grid is map kpa vs rpm ,
but you can make it easier to understand kpa /vs psi just add map psi to the dash you use to log and on playback it will become clear as mud

Thanks! I see its like anything, just takes time to learn. This isn't as bad as I thought. I appreciate the help guys! The owner would also like me to thank you all for saving it from coming apart again. Will update you as the progress continues.

Who wrote that timing map Stevie wonder? 138kpa is about 6 psi boost you could run 26 degrees on pump gas easy at this point