Discussion in 'Transmission Talk' started by Mr URL, Jul 23, 2002.
One click out, Ahhhh..... all better.
Glad to hear it.
I got the govenor out tonight. Big weight says 5 B and the lighter weight says 6 D. The spring isn't blue. It's silver. The big weight looks like a spring could fit in there but isn't one. I know the TR govenor has one spring but does the large weight supposed to have a place where you can put one? Just trying to make sure I do have a TR govenor and I'm wondering if the spring is wrong in there.
It does look similar to the top pic:
Your alright yes the big looks like it should have one and if it was anything less than a TR it cause lower shift points.
I've got a set screw in the govenor now. It lowered the 1-2 shift to 5,925 at 23 psi boost and 2-3 shift to 5,100. With 15 psi boost 1-2 shift is at 5,450 and 2-3 shift at 4,900.
I think it's from the street tires going up in smoke. When this transmission was in my GN with street tires it did the same thing until I went to the track with slicks on. The shift points then lowered to 5,450 1-2 shift and 5,100 2-3 shift. I'm going to wait until I can make a track visit or get some good tires on and see where it's at.
Ok, Ok I conceed.......So now I am a mear 93 - 1 ...
I want a rematch!!!!!!!!
At 15 psi the shifts are where I want them so why does it raise so much at higher boost? Could the govenor seal be leaking or something or is it from the tires going up in smoke?
Well...... It could be... hrmmm I want to try again.
1-2 shift spring?
Could I be overpowering the torque convertor in 1st gear and need a stall change cause it's done this with two different transmissions with the same convertor??
I put some BGC 235/60/15 recaps on it. Even though I smoldered them easily too it shifts w/15 psi 1-2 at 5,350 and 2-3 at 4,825. Then I put 21 psi to it shifts are 1-2 at 6,100 and 2-3 shift at 5,275. Thats a 750 rpm difference on the 1-2 shift?
Dunno.......about ready to quit for the year...I hate transmissions....
Bruce, I'll be giving you a buzz to see what you might have up your sleeve!
Here's some files from tonight with the slicks on just for grins:
shifts 1-2: 5,750 2-3: 5,075
They where made with 22 psi boost.
I finally get the transmission to shift at the right points and I brake it shifting into 3rd on my 4th pass at the track!! Looks like hard parts. Makes noise and car doesn't move anymore! DOH! Starting over I guess.
Thanks for everyones help!
gimme call next week. We will get you smilin.
Well, took the tranny apart and I blew the pump into a bunch of pieces. My tranny guy never saw that before and neither have I. It was a 10 vane.
Not that unusual, trust me....
PUMP BODY: First, never use a pump body twice unless you are reinstalling the SAME pump rotor,slide,and veins,
that came out of the running trans. If you are going to reuse,modify pump body as will be explained and reinstall. If pump rotor,slide and or body needs to be replaced start with a "refinished" body. The ONLY way to correctly do this is a tideous and time consuming method. First, our experiance has led us to use GM parts EXCLUSIVLY and they must be ordered in sets from them(GM) at the request of the builder. They must be exact to .002. This is how we do it and have been commended on it by GM themselves:.......
It is imperitive that the pump rotor and slide are measured very carefully. They MUST be within .002 of the pump cavity depth.
Too loose and line pressure will be low hot, and too tight, rotor and slide could bind, and break rotor, slide,converter neck,or all the forementioned parts. We set them .0013 in the hole, or in the "pocket". The way this is done is, the face is cut, or surfaced. Then another tool bit comes in and with the premeasured rotor and slide thickness', cuts it to .0013 clearence. This is VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
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