Discussion in 'LSX Tech' started by sonseeker, Jul 27, 2009.
Subscribing! I am about to tackle this swap in my 85 Regal Limited
Is it possible to keep the heater box? I would like to do this on a daily driver.
Looks like you should have room for a heat only box, but no AC.
Well here's mine. transdapt and moroso solid mounts too. Caddy ctsv oil pan. Pan used to hit the cross member though. After I went with the ctsV I heard the engine mount combo would have worked better with an f-body pan. Oh well!
As you can see though, the huge truck manifold will fit with the stock hood. Even with the 1/2" spacer I fabed up for the engine mount for the oil pan/cross member problem. Pan hangs about 1 inch below cross member.
Any one use this engine mount combo and an F-body pan? I'd like to know for sure.
great thread thank you :wink:
Pics of my LQ4/4L80E swap using the BRP kit and a Hummer H3 Alpha oil pan in.
Picasa Web Albums - Fred Gollatz - REGAL PICS
great thread! i've been thinking about doing this for the past few days. Just to clear this up, will the stock 5.3 truck pan work, and will the truck alternator clear the steering box?
Yes and yes. But the truck pan will hang real low and you may have to massage the firewall to get the engine back far enough to miss the steering box.
Oil pans are cheap and a pain to change when in the car get the right one.
Do more research then do some more.
what kind and size of raditor are you running on your ls motor?
dropping my 6.0 and trans in tonight. mocked mine up with spohn motor mounts and stock mounts on block with ctsv pan. def do not rec. the spohn mounts they did not just line up anywhere when i did it. ctsv pan hangs down maybe 1/2" when i mocked it up.
I run an F-body radiator and a stock buick turbo fan,160 stat,stays nice and cool
H3 pan that I have is the same as the hot rod pan Gm or BRP sells,hangs 1.5" below crossmember,I would not trust it on lowered cars
some have cut the sump and shortened the pickup on the stock truck pan
Ha ha, The car only see's her monthly warm up run when the white stuff is on the ground. Not having a heater doesn't seem to be too bad during the summer months so I'm not in a huge rush to put one in. Some days its pretty tough getting it back into the garage with the radials.
I want to put a (Flex-a-lite Mojave) heater in it for the cooler spring and fall nights but I haven't had a chance to get one yet.
Another thing I would suggest for anyone using Schoenfeld headers. Use GM 90 deg spark plug wires. Stay away from MSD. Even with coated headers and the fibre boots to protect the plug end the boot gets brittle when its heated and the angle the boot has to be at for #8 cylinder is enough to break the end of the clip off.. ( I spent countless hours last summer trying to figure out why my car was missing like crazy, the wire would only fail a resistance test at a retarded angle) Save yourself the grief.
I used the stock buick radiator but had it re-cored to a 4 core with dimple tubes. I am using a flex-a-lite low profile (#210 I believe is the number?). In over mid 90 F its never hotter than 207 F.
My radiator is from Jegs. so is the shroud and fan bolts all togeather. I just measrued the core support and bought the largset one that would fit.
Has anyone been able to keep A/C with this swap?
F-body plastic tanks,aluminum core
here is my progress just waiting on turbo headers and then gotta do the piping for it.
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