Discussion in 'Before Black (non-SFI) Tech' started by LilSpann601, Sep 26, 2008.
welliremoved the dist and turned it so the vac advance wouldn't block the bracket and it wont start...but soon as i move the dist with the vac advance in the way it fires right up
HUH? Not sure I got that Lorenzo. If you remove the dist and move it over one tooth it should have moved the position of #1 so you shouldn't have an issue. You may not have moved it over 1 tooth. Did the dist just go into place or did you have to rotate the oil pump drive?
i took out the bolt removed the distributor and turnt to the right so the vac wouldn't be in the way...but when i did that i couldn't get it to crank
Let's try this a little differently
Mark the location of the rotor tip on the outside of the dist first. Remove the bolt holding the dist in place. With one hand on the dist and one hand on the rotor lift gently. Pull up straight. As the rotor moves to the side there will be a point where it will come free of the drive gear on the cam. At this point push down slightly and you will feel the gear grab again. Turn the rotor so that you feel the dist lift and when it feels like you skip or jump you've moved over one tooth. At this point you'll be able to push it down but not all the way. Take a rachet and rotate the engine so the dist rotates and you will feel the oil pump drive line up. Now go back to the timing marks and remove the rotor to line up the teeth. This should allow you to get the advance moved over. The reason for the mark is so you can make sure it's moved over in the direction you need. It should be a little easier and you can use the mark after rotating everything to rotate the housing to match the tip on the rotor. It will get you in the ball park. Hope this helps.
thanks again charlie...Im actually about thru wit the project i just have to get the down pipe modified,msd box for knock sensor,shorten the accelerator cable..also the other day i searched the forum for turbo control center bypass and found the thread and some said they were using a 78-80 setup and they didnt use the knock sensor
anybody got a spare turbo control center or something
Post tht in the parts wanted section usally works for me
Go to my thread on building the turbo Lorenzo. I can send you a link to get the new bearings and stuff if you need it or check with Aj. He has a good place he deals with as well. It's not hard if you want to do it yourself.
I think the turbo is good no smoke and when i shut itoff i can hear the compressor....and the little fan inside the waste gates spins..i just need to find somesortof knock sensor system
will a vorteh msd btm work with the buick 231
Is this after you drive the car? If it is you need to let it sit for 5 minutes and idle so you don't burn up the bearings.
To use a btm you need a 6AL box. What's a vorteh?
i meant vortech
are vac lines necessary on the carb cars or can i just block off everything...do i need the purge sw...and etc...
Ummmmmmmmmmmm..............HUH? could you be a little more specific please.
i got all my vacuum lines blocked and i was wondering would doin that ruin anything...or hurt performance
well today i got the trans lines in and i remembered that my trans has a vac on the side and it was connected to the heat riser efe...if i deleted the efe where should i put the transmission vaccuum now
I needs manifold vacume so it needs to be before the turbo some where. I think you can splice it into the nipple that's just in front of the inlet so it should have good signal there. If you need a pic tell me and I'll se if I can come up with one.
sure a pic will help charlie...would making a water injection system for detonation be a hard task??? damn msd boxes are pretty expensive
get an esc off a later model na engine with knock sensor.
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