The official V8 build begins

For the past 2 weeks my buddy James has been coming over and keeping me motivated. We changed the turbo location in order to run the radiator in a more conventional manner. The original plan was to place the turbo behind the grille. This meant a horizontaly mounted radiator. I decided this maybe future trouble and changed plans.

We built a extension or drop to the factory core support in order to gain more space and stregthen the core support. The turbo will now sit behind a 7 in. hole on the front bumper. A small light brace will be used at the 4 bolt flange just for some extra support.

The bumper assembly will be now made for quick removal using Dzus fasteners and slide pins. A return pump will be needed to return the turbo oil back into the motor.

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I love that turbo location. Man that car is going to be Fricking AWESOME!!!!

Keep the pictures coming.

Good job so far!
 
Guys ,
Thanks for the complements!

John,
I tried emailing these to ya, but they got bounced back.
 
Ok we got working on the crossover yesterday. Just need to finish the merge from the drivers side. Also worked on the adapter for the T6 flange. I wanted to run at least 3.5 in tube into it, but after seeing many set ups the single 3in should be enough. Its also much easier to work with and should keep the exhaust speed up.

I know the surface rust looks like crap. Hopefully I can get these done by next weeks end and send them out for coating.

I also bent up a nice little radiator cover.:cool:
 

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Looks good.

The downpipe may have to be done in sections. I'm guessing you'll run it under the header. Best way to change plugs is through the fender well. With the downpipe lower than the headers, it may be tricky getting to the first 2 plugs. You could probably do them from underneath if you keep the down pipe away from the motor a little bit.

The other thing if you run the downpipe over the control arms. You'll have to be very careful with wheelstands. Those control arms come up ALOT higher than you think when the car comes down.

If you were going to dump the downpipe straight down right after the turbo..nevermind:biggrin:
 
Dusty,
Im gonna kick the DP up and over the frame rail abit. I will trim the fenderwell for clearance just enough to keep it away from the plugs.

I know what you mean with the control arm, I digned a 3.5 in DP one and it was a mile away from that control arm.
 
Got the crossover almost done. One more cut out and weld. The Wastegate is next.
 

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Another one in the works...

Louie we have a street car in the build process right now.. pump gas and air to air intercooler for some street action.
 

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Jason,
When you have time shoot me some more pics and details. I like the Ebay headers. They are built very well. I had a set I converted to Vband, but the ports were too small for my Cyl heads.
 
Louie L. said:
Jason,
When you have time shoot me some more pics and details. I like the Ebay headers. They are built very well. I had a set I converted to Vband, but the ports were too small for my Cyl heads.
Click to expand...


Yes, this is the first mock up with budget in mind. Still figuring out how to get everything under the hood without major fabwork. Should be a fun cruiser.
 
ledbetter (new member)

I Have 1983 Regal With A 305 In It ,headers,no Cats And Flowmaster 4 Sale, $1800. Iwill Post Pic This Wknd.i Am In Newportnews Va.
 
Louie L. said:
OK now were cooking with grease:eek:
Parts are finally rolling in:

The crank and intake are here. By weeks end i should have pics of the Brodix CNC ported heads and Dart block from Champion Racing!:eek:
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Ok i got in this a little late but is that a Callies crank? if not just let me know but it does look like it :biggrin:
 
It is a Howards Pro crank. The reason they look the same is that Howards has Callies machine them for them. They use the same exact tolerances and heat treatments. From what I understand both Forgings come from the same foundry in KY or TN.
 
yap u got it on the nail head. I worked for callies/norton for 5 years that is y i picked it out like a sore thumb lol:biggrin: i use to polish the cranks they have to hold a 5 mico finish or less on the pins(maching terms) and brgs. No more than .0003 taper and out of round. The #'s on the #1 c/w will tell the stroke,throw pin od's and brg od's and bbc or sbc and serial # for that crank. You have fun with that car and dont be afrade to send picks and letters to them boys at callies they are a bunch of race nuts and they love to here the stories. If you are ever that way with the car drop in they like to see thing like that and they might give you a tour of the place. I got to polish 2 Top Fuel drag cranks when i worked there. That was fun! Knowing that some big boy got to use what i polished.
 
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