Starting T-Type After LONG Term Storage

So 87 what do you do with your spare time?:D You have done more to your car in a couple weeks,or whatever, than I have mine in several years. Of course, I have this problem called CRS so, when I start to work on something, I forget what I'm doing about half way through the proccess. Good luck with your repairs, I know you will get it running great.
 
When you oiled the K&N, did you oil the crap out of it? If so, the stock film type MAF probably has a nice insulating coat on oil on it.

I.E. it can't meter correctly when insulated.


That being said, stock MAFs and stock MAF replacements are crap.

When you unplugged the MAF did you get a MAF code?

There's an easy test to see if the ECM is receiving info from the MAF. Set the scan tool to AF with KOEO and push the gas pedal. If the AF reading increases that means the ECM is making up it's own numbers so you can limp to the dealership. If the reading stays put, that means the MAF is actually reporting numbers to the computer.
 
earlbrown said:
When you oiled the K&N, did you oil the crap out of it? If so, the stock film type MAF probably has a nice insulating coat on oil on it.

I.E. it can't meter correctly when insulated.


That being said, stock MAFs and stock MAF replacements are crap.

When you unplugged the MAF did you get a MAF code?

There's an easy test to see if the ECM is receiving info from the MAF. Set the scan tool to AF with KOEO and push the gas pedal. If the AF reading increases that means the ECM is making up it's own numbers so you can limp to the dealership. If the reading stays put, that means the MAF is actually reporting numbers to the computer.
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Earl, don't get the big head, but I love reading your posts. They are very informative and sometimes just dog gone funny. You're a little left of plumb, but that's what make you interesting. Keep 'em coming!
 
87_TX_T-Type said:
There actually is an aftermarket gauge too (but it is not hooked up at this time). I'm not interested in the accuracy of the gauge per se, just wondering if the sudden malfunction is coincidental or caused by my testing the MAF somehow. Per Mike it just sounds coincidental.

Will the car start even if the MAF is busted/disconnected? I know other vehicles have a limp home or Alpha-n mode when the MAF is out, but will still run (rough) regardless.

My logic is this:
- If a car will NOT start with a bad MAF - the MAF (assuming it was good before) kicked the bucket when plugged back in; hence causing a future non-start condition.
- If a car WILL start regardless of the MAF being plugged in or faulty - the act of plugging the MAF back in and the sudden stall created another issue down the line.

I'm thinking the latter point since the car's idle did not change when the MAF was initially unplugged which indicates it was not working to begin with.

Regardless I ordered the 5.7 chip, LT1 MAF, and translator today. In the meantime, I'm also going to change out the EGR, all fuel injectors, injector harness, and fuel pressure regulator since I have them laying around.
Click to expand...

Don't bother with the egr Clint. The 5.7 chip doesn't use emissions. You can unplug and remove it and the egr solenoid (plug the vac line too) or just leave it in place and do nothing with it. If you do decide to remove all of it you will need to buy a egr block off plate and a new gasket ($30 for both). You will need to get that boost gauge working before you do any hot rodding. I'm free again Mon eve most likely.
 
Frederickdav said:
So 87 what do you do with your spare time?:D You have done more to your car in a couple weeks,or whatever, than I have mine in several years. Of course, I have this problem called CRS so, when I start to work on something, I forget what I'm doing about half way through the proccess. Good luck with your repairs, I know you will get it running great.
Click to expand...

I'm only spending a couple of hours here and there, and actually feel like I'm slacking a bit. My car obsession was always BMWs, and I've spend most of my life cutting my teeth on them. In other words, there is nothing terribly foreign here to me except the damn vacuum lines.

My father and I both had an affinity for somewhat unique automobiles. His prize was the Buick. Mine is a 2001 BMW Z3 M Coupe with the s54 engine (one half of the original McLaren F1 engine sans turbos). It's 1 out of roughly 700, so the Buick is in good company. I'll try to get a picture of them together at some point.
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earlbrown said:
When you oiled the K&N, did you oil the crap out of it? If so, the stock film type MAF probably has a nice insulating coat on oil on it.

I.E. it can't meter correctly when insulated.


That being said, stock MAFs and stock MAF replacements are crap.

When you unplugged the MAF did you get a MAF code?

There's an easy test to see if the ECM is receiving info from the MAF. Set the scan tool to AF with KOEO and push the gas pedal. If the AF reading increases that means the ECM is making up it's own numbers so you can limp to the dealership. If the reading stays put, that means the MAF is actually reporting numbers to the computer.
Click to expand...

The filter was well oiled, but I don't think there was much excess oil. The thing is about 18 inches long and was "de-oiled" thoroughly beforehand. It took every bit of oil out of that can to get it looking new. That being said, it wouldn't hurt to hit the MAF with MAF cleaner again just in case.
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As far code reading - this is where I have been slacking. I'm not sure if I'm ready to pop for a $260 Scanmaster just yet, and the old paperclip method always irks me. If I blink and miss a flash, I'm suddenly sent down the wrong rabbit hole.

Can you recommend a reasonably priced OBD1 code reader/scanner? I'll give the paperclip method a shot this weekend regardless. This non-start problem would appear to a simple fix... I plugged something in -> car died -> car won't start -> therefore what I plugged in either blew a fuse or requires another component to be reset.
 
Here is the scan tool that was used back in the day. You will need a cartridge that includes the GN. I bought mine off eBay years ago and still use it. The refresh rate is slower than the new stuff by Bob Bailey but it does the job for me. http://m.ebay.com/itm/322382256896?_trkparms=pageci:163f01c1-e4da-11e6-86a0-74dbd180135b|parentrq:e1e509511590a2af35907e76ffb3a8a9|iid:1&_mwBanner=1
Scanmasters can easily be found used now because Bob came out with the Scanmaster G which fits in a regular gauge pod.
 
I'm not as big of a fan of the Scanmaster as most people, but it coupled with a PowerLogger is the tits. As a LARGE bonus if you have PL you can post a log here and anybody with the PL software can see your entire run and everything your ECM sees.

I made some ALDL cables YEARS ago for laptop scan tools. If you need one let me know. But honestly, if $250 is being a deal breaker, you should really consider cleaning the car up and dumping it. Not having the ability to monitor knock and watch for anomalies will literally cost you many many thousands with a quickness. And these cars have the amazing ability to take up a LOT of room when they're down.

Here's what you can do with the oldest cheapest of laptops and a cable...

http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/how-to-setup-winaldl-and-scan-your-car.194826/

http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/how-to-setup-turbometer-pro-and-scan-your-car.195619/

The downside is you'd still be stuck with the slow updates at 1 frame every 1.4 seconds, but it's still light years more than you have now.
 
GNRick said:
The egr valve and cracked headers also leak. Google "vacuum smoke machine" for info on how to use smoke to find leaks. BLM on a scan tool will tell you if you have a leak, too. Should be 128 +/- 10.
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Some people can hear exhaust leaks better than others. Smoke mechines work and can be a nice addition in the bedroom
 
Well good news...I had food poisoning over the weekend. Well, that's not exactly good, but because I spent more time in the bathroom than poking and prodding at the car in the garage my no-start problem has resolved itself. Maybe the engine was just flooded, but after sitting a couple of days it was able to start right up. Actually sounds a little better, and doesn't seem to be producing so many noxious fumes.

MAF is still probably FUBAR, but at least I'm moving in the right direction again.
 
Making a little more progress today. Installed the LT1 MAF, translator, and TurboTweak chip. Eric at TT was a very helpful, and answered all my questions. Still need to figure out how to fine tune the chip and MAF, but I'm going to wait until the other major items are complete.

Sounds so MUCH better, and sounds better each time I start it. Idle is a bit high still, but there are still some additional items to take care of. Getting excited to drive it for the first time, but still need to change out the injectors, fuel pressure regulator, transmission fluid/filter, and diff fluid.

The videos don't do it justice. (And sorry I still haven't washed it or replaced the bumper fillers.)

I also need to find a new intake pipe between the MAF and turbo. Any suggestions are welcome. Looks like I'll need a 20* silicon elbow coupling at the turbo, a 3" stainless steel pipe, and another straight silicon coupling at the MAF. I've seen a place called SilicomeIntakes.com, but let me know if there are better options.
 
Hey man , thumbs up for you bringing her back to life . I have some very good stock injectors if you need them , No charge . Just send me your address .
 
Kirban Performance for mass air pipe or TR custom parts. Most intake pipes are aluminum. It will come with couplers and clamps needed for install. Your turbo is TA (stock appearing) in case it's asked by the vendor. TE (non stock appearing turbo) will need slightly longer hoses is why they might ask. I like the straight pipe at TR custom parts. Look under vendors on the main page here to find links to the websites.
 
I put a TT chip in my T last summer. If I remember right when the chip is changed you are supposed to drive around town for 15 minutes so the chip will learn and get settled in. Mine ran quite rough at first then settled down and ran better every time I drove it. Good luck and thanks for keeping us informed of your progress.
 
Finally got around to pulling off the fuel rail and EGR without too much difficulty. The injectors definitely "look" like they need replacing. Interesting how the new injectors look a touch shorter than the originals, and the new nozzle has a completely different design.
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While I was at it I went ahead and removed the intake plenum. The outside could use some polishing, and there is fine layer of carbon buildup on the inside.
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Any advice on cleaning up the plenum both inside and outside? I searched the forum and most of the de-carbonizing threads either say its not worth it or suggest a seafoam type soak (which I'm not a big fan of and the top of the pistons are clean anyway).
 
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Well I thought that oil/carbon would be baked in pretty good, but with a little engine degreaser and about 10 minutes of elbow grease with a nylon brush I was able to get about 95% off. Same with the intake runners.
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As far as the outside of the intake, I think I'll buy a cheap Harbor Freight power coating machine, and simply pain it black.
 
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