Ok, I apologize for the long post in advance however I have been searching and reading on the forum for the last three days and have gone as far as I can without someone giving me a new idea to look at. I just had Nick Micale and his engine builder build me a new 4.1 stroker and he wanted the car in order to tune the motor so I sent it to him. He also installed a DW fuel pump and billet sending unit. After he put the motor back in he went out and did a few test runs and was able to build the boost all the way to 17 PSI before calling it done since it is a new motor. Eric also burned a new chip for me that is good for 30 PSI and 114 octane fuel...that is what is in the car now. When Nick did his test runs everything was running perfectly and it was ready for me to pick up. The car sat in a trailer for a few days until I arrived to pick it up. Nick had to install a battery during his tests because my old one went bad so when I arrived I installed a new Red Top Optima battery which is reading 14 volts. I went out for a test drive and as soon as the car starts to build boost the engine cuts out and stumbles. Nick and I (along with one of his buddies Dennis) began to eliminate potential culprits one by one and I still haven't figured it out...it is still doing the same thing. Here is what we have done so far. Keep in mind that after we tried these things I went back to the original item after it was confirmed that it was not the culprit. It should also be notes that I am currently running Sunoco SR 118 fuel which is a leaded fuel however the O2 sensor is new and it is giving good solid readings.
1) Double Checked all ground cables including the negative terminal on the battery (all were good)
2) Replaced the ECM with a known good ECM
3) Replaced the Coil Pack with a known good one
4) Changed the chip to a known good chip
5) Replaced the Crank sensor with a known good sensor
6) Checked all plugs and plug wires making sure they were all good and all in the right place
7) Replaced the MAF with a stock unit
8) After that was not the problem I put my LS1 MAF back on and confirmed my translator settings which are
1) ON
2) ON
3) ON
4) OFF
Dial settings are all at 0
9) Checked PowerLogger file, all numbers are within acceptable ranges including BLM, O2, Fuel Pressure (Verified with in car AutoMeter gauge which is 43 PSI with the hose off and it is rising with boost), EGT, TPS rises smoothly and maxes out at 4.14 which is slightly low however most likely not the issue,
10) Checked all IC hose connections and they are tight with no leaks or problems
11) No knock is seen on the PowerLogger file or on the Caspers knock sensor in the car.
One more thing to mention, if I roll into the throttle rather than stabbing at it the engine will build boost a little longer and just surges a few times before stalling completely and having to be restarted. I am not sure if that is something worth noting or just an anomaly but this whole thing has been frustrating. I dont believe this is anything Nick did wrong at all, in fact quite the contrary, I believe Nick went above and beyond to try and help me solve this problem. At this point we have gone through all of the normal things you would check on these beasts...someone smarter than me will hopefully be able to help me get my baby back on the road. Any help is greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance!!
1) Double Checked all ground cables including the negative terminal on the battery (all were good)
2) Replaced the ECM with a known good ECM
3) Replaced the Coil Pack with a known good one
4) Changed the chip to a known good chip
5) Replaced the Crank sensor with a known good sensor
6) Checked all plugs and plug wires making sure they were all good and all in the right place
7) Replaced the MAF with a stock unit
8) After that was not the problem I put my LS1 MAF back on and confirmed my translator settings which are
1) ON
2) ON
3) ON
4) OFF
Dial settings are all at 0
9) Checked PowerLogger file, all numbers are within acceptable ranges including BLM, O2, Fuel Pressure (Verified with in car AutoMeter gauge which is 43 PSI with the hose off and it is rising with boost), EGT, TPS rises smoothly and maxes out at 4.14 which is slightly low however most likely not the issue,
10) Checked all IC hose connections and they are tight with no leaks or problems
11) No knock is seen on the PowerLogger file or on the Caspers knock sensor in the car.
One more thing to mention, if I roll into the throttle rather than stabbing at it the engine will build boost a little longer and just surges a few times before stalling completely and having to be restarted. I am not sure if that is something worth noting or just an anomaly but this whole thing has been frustrating. I dont believe this is anything Nick did wrong at all, in fact quite the contrary, I believe Nick went above and beyond to try and help me solve this problem. At this point we have gone through all of the normal things you would check on these beasts...someone smarter than me will hopefully be able to help me get my baby back on the road. Any help is greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance!!
