TTA valve covers needed

I'm running -12AN lines from ea valve cover to a catch can right now. That seemed to help but now im getting a thin film of oil from the back of the valve covers that coats the engine. That film then forms a tiny drip off the torque converter cover. I've tried sealing the covers to the heads 4 times already w all the same luck...Those covers just don't want to seal and yes it's driving me completely nuts! Lol

You can cut off the bottom edge of the acorn nuts, sob they tighten a little more, or you can add a 2nd washer on top of the valve cover. I put a thin layer of rtv around the back of my gaskets, and it stopped my leaks.
 
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You can cut off the bottom edge of the acorn nuts, sob they tighten a little more, or you can add a 2nd washer on top of the valve cover. I put a thin layer of rtv around the back of my gaskets, and it stopped my leaks.
I tried silicone and that didn't help. I'm going to check it tomorrow w the fresh set of passenger covers and these nicer MAHLE gaskets. Lubed up the gaskets too w MOLYKOTE, o-ring grease. I also cut down the support rods inside the covers 1/8" below the lip and made them all flat. The castings from a couple of them appeared that they were protruding past the lip of the covers maybe not allowing them to seal... I have Cummins engine oil dye in there now and a UV light ready! Hopefully no more leaks.
 
These support rods inside I trimmed down in case you were wondering what I was talking about. This exact cover was one I bought from a junkyard. Not currently on the car.
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So after all this dicking around w the valve covers. The engine oil dye came through and pointed the leak out. Head gaskets are the cause of my oil leak! Do I pull the covers and torque the heads down? Motor was just rebuilt.
 
So after all this dicking around w the valve covers. The engine oil dye came through and pointed the leak out. Head gaskets are the cause of my oil leak! Do I pull the covers and torque the heads down? Motor was just rebuilt.

Did you re torque the heads after a couple of heat cycles?
 
Did you re torque the heads after a couple of heat cycles?
No I didn't. I just pulled the passenger side cover being the easiest and checked the nuts. All the ones I could get to were tight? Had the torque wrench set to 60ft/lbs, none moved. Is it ok to drive as is or do I need to pull these heads off? I guess I could pull the manifolds and try re torquing all of the nuts. Just don't know if manifolds will come off due to manifold studs being installed as well...
 
ARP studs used for cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds. Oil Leak is worse on driver side head around #3&5 cylinders. Passenger side is at far rear, #6.
 
Cal Hartline is tuning my car on May 11-12th. Should I not have him dyno tune it w this oil coming from the head gaskets? Is this something that I should be really concerned about? I'm not getting milky coolant or excessive psi in the coolant system. Just stupid little leak of oil
 
CYLINDER LEAK DOWN TEST - Passed, all 6 were under 10% most were around 5%

Pulling the engine next week to retorque the heads. The reason behind that, Exhaust manifold studs are in the way of the nuts...alot of bs for some simple bs lol.
 
CYLINDER LEAK DOWN TEST - Passed, all 6 were under 10% most were around 5%

Pulling the engine next week to retorque the heads. The reason behind that, Exhaust manifold studs are in the way of the nuts...alot of bs for some simple bs lol.

You can't get the studs out with it in the car?
 
Cometic stage 1 HG's 3.860X.040
I probably could leave the engine in but I would rather pull it and save me the frustration of working bent over and fishing the studs out. It's a really tight fit, so much so idk if I could even sneak the headers out w the studs in.
 
Going to retorque everything else too right away. Taking a week vacation next week to get her done in time for Cal
 
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