Alky problem

Ok now that i got the pump primed..any suggestions on why im still getting knock at 15 lbs..car boggs down at idle when i hit test button like it should so I know methonal is getting to the intake..
 
Is the power injection light coming on at the set point? Pump may be worn and not happy pushing against boost. Might also be why it had to be primed.
 
Yeah light comes on but afer my drive..the tank level never changed and i can notice that..it should have gone down some..when i got back home pushed test button..engine still bogged down..so maybe the pump is just tired and not able to push the methonal thru under boost..ill try my spare pump that i have and see what that one does..maybe ill switch out tomorrow..and ill come back with results
 
Do what I explained earlier. Do the boost test with the engine not running. Take the inlet pipe off and watch it spray while you apply air pressure to the MAP sensor. What's it doing? I'm the kind of guy who likes to see it for myself.
 
NY Twin Turbo said:
Do what I explained earlier. Do the boost test with the engine not running. Take the inlet pipe off and watch it spray while you apply air pressure to the MAP sensor. What's it doing? I'm the kind of guy who likes to see it for myself.
Click to expand...

Ok I applied air pressure to the MAP..pump works great ..methonal sprays out flawlessly..so we know the map works..it seems like the vacuum line that is going into the map has something to do with it..i looked for leaks..but i have to say the original piece that was hooked to the map..looked all dry rotted and i replaced it even though it was working fine..(shouldnt fix what isnt broken right)..but now when i got into boost the light doesnt even come on now..
 
turbobuick1035 said:
Ok I applied air pressure to the MAP..pump works great ..methonal sprays out flawlessly..so we know the map works..it seems like the vacuum line that is going into the map has something to do with it..i looked for leaks..but i have to say the original piece that was hooked to the map..looked all dry rotted and i replaced it even though it was working fine..(shouldnt fix what isnt broken right)..but now when i got into boost the light doesnt even come on now..
Click to expand...
The piece that gets hooked to the map sensor is like a reducer that gets hooked up to the hard vac line then goes to the map sensor..is that stopping it from turning on because i just put a regular straight hose f om the hard vac line to the map sensor and it supposed to be some kind of reducer.
 
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In the past when the alky would turn on the green dash light "power injection". would turn on right? That's like a test light to me. If I step on it and don't see that I'd let off because if that light is not on, the pumps not on. That said, have a helper check the dash light while you put air to the map. If the dash light works then I'd say. Something is wrong with the boost line to the map. Also probably not it but don't forget the purple disable wire.
 
No disintegrations said:
In the past when the alky would turn on the green dash light "power injection". would turn on right? That's like a test light to me. If I step on it and don't see that I'd let off because if that light is not on, the pumps not on. That said, have a helper check the dash light while you put air to the map. If the dash light works then I'd say. Something is wrong with the boost line to the map. Also probably not it but don't forget the purple disable wire.
Click to expand...
After i got the pump,primed and after replacing that small piece of rubber vac line to the map ..now into boost..nothing only works now when i hit the test button or applying air manually to the map with an air hose. Damn it ..everything was fine until i had that leaked and pump lost its prime..now it's frustrating trying to get it right again...grrrr
 
Ok so as the istructions say..the green wire goimg to the map should read 1.6V with the key on but engine not running..I'm getting nothing. So I guess thats my problem..the map isn't getting the signal. How do I track this down..where should I start?
 
turbobuick1035 said:
Ok so as the istructions say..the green wire goimg to the map should read 1.6V with the key on but engine not running..I'm getting nothing. So I guess thats my problem..the map isn't getting the signal. How do I track this down..where should I start?
Click to expand...
Do you have 5v to the map?
 
You'll need a digital multimeter. The black meter wire goes to a shiny solid body ground. You then gently back probe the three wires at the map. One will show nothing because it's the ground. The other will read 5 v. That's generated in the ecm. Called 5 v reference. The other is the signal. Varies from 0-5 volts. If you have the tps jumper harness make sure its plugged in. That was the easy way to wire it up. If you have nothing at the map follow the wires until you find a suspicious connector then test again.
 
No disintegrations said:
You'll need a digital multimeter. The black meter wire goes to a shiny solid body ground. You then gently back probe the three wires at the map. One will show nothing because it's the ground. The other will read 5 v. That's generated in the ecm. Called 5 v reference. The other is the signal. Varies from 0-5 volts. If you have the tps jumper harness make sure its plugged in. That was the easy way to wire it up. If you have nothing at the map follow the wires until you find a suspicious connector then test again.
Click to expand...
And this is with the key on but engine not running right? Its gotta be something simple..going back to the instalation instuctions which i still have the green wire going to the map is supposed to read 1.5 V with key on but engine not running..does that sound right?
 
1.5v is approx. what you should see since we are close to sea level (I get 1.6v). Key on engine off, probe the gray wire at the map connector for 5v. If you don't see 5v then look at whatever you tapped into for a 5v source. If you modded the 5v source using the vortexbuicks-etc.com site, then start probing behind the glove box to make sure those connections are good to go.
 
Yeah ..im getting nothing on the green wire going into the map sensor..i guess i need to trace back to where the throttle body wire was tapped into for the 5 volts..the top wire on the on the tps. I just dont understand why it doesnt work anymore..I put new valve covers on..maybe I did something that caused it to not work,...i dont know...grrr
 
5v should be acquired from a known good source like the TPS. If you lose that signal at least you will get a tps code and have a little safeguard. The wiring that is used for the MAP signal to the alky controller needs to be dedicated and should never be tapped into or spliced into. Any breakage in connection or malfunctioning signal at that circuit and your engine will be damaged if you run it hard. Properly crimped weatherpack connectors with breakouts are the only acceptable connection on an important signal wire like this!
 
turbobuick1035 said:
Ok now that i got the pump primed..any suggestions on why im still getting knock at 15 lbs..car boggs down at idle when i hit test button like it should so I know methonal is getting to the intake..
Click to expand...
you don't really know how much is actually getting in,this is why you should get a gauge for your alky kit,guessing can get really expensive.
 
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