Rusty steering wheel

NEVER DULL .0000 STEEL WOOL IF NEEDED
eagle-one-nevr-dull-wheel-metal-polish.jpg
 
"000" or "0000" steel wool will work just fine. A little polish helps as well. Just wax on and wax off.
 
Will the steel wool change the grain pattern? I have a wheel that has perfect leather but brown like finger and Palm prints on it. I guess the guy had a ph problem or something.
 
I rub it in the direction of the grain with Scotch-brite and Mothers billet polish.
 
The steel wool that is "000" or "0000" is very fine and can polish glass or even chrome--- I tried it on some old faded chrome (stuff from 1967). The results were pretty amazing.
It will not hurt the grain of the spokes.
 
I used aluminum foil and water on the spokes and waterless hand cleaner on the leather. I through in 2 pictures of some other chrome parts I did with aluminum foil and water.
 

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I taped the leather off, by running the tape under the edges of the leather.
I then did the scotchbrite rub, w/ a spritz of rust killer.
Cleaned up well.
I then changed the tape, covered all the leather up w/ paper, wiped the metal down w/ Prepsol. I then shot a coat of Eastwood satin clear on.
 
I had a badly corroded wheel from a windowless T carcass. It needed work on the hard to get at metal near the leather cover.. I used a super flexible (think cheap) old artists pallet knife that was about 1/2" wide as a backer for strips of self-adhesive emery paper. I think I settled on 150 or 240 grit from the body shop. The end of blade with sand paper was thin enough to run right up under the leather cover at the end of the spokes. If you sand in the direction of the metal grain, you can blend it in with the easier to get at part of the spoke (that you did with Chuck Leeper or jim0207 's method).

Side note: I used a vinyl/leather repair kit for the nicks and cracks in the leather grip before sanding those repairs with super fine paper. It then got prepped and dyed it to match. The stitching was still good. In the end the leather turned out not very soft but looks good and has a satin finish.
 
I had a badly corroded wheel from a windowless T carcass. It needed work on the hard to get at metal near the leather cover.. I used a super flexible (think cheap) old artists pallet knife that was about 1/2" wide as a backer for strips of self-adhesive emery paper. I think I settled on 150 or 240 grit from the body shop. The end of blade with sand paper was thin enough to run right up under the leather cover at the end of the spokes. If you sand in the direction of the metal grain, you can blend it in with the easier to get at part of the spoke (that you did with Chuck Leeper or jim0207 's method).

Side note: I used a vinyl/leather repair kit for the nicks and cracks in the leather grip before sanding those repairs with super fine paper. It then got prepped and dyed it to match. The stitching was still good. In the end the leather turned out not very soft but looks good and has a satin finish.
Where did you find the leather /vinyl repair kit? Auto parts store? Got a pic of the kit?
 
Oddly enough, I have done the fine sandpaper and super glue trick on a steering wheel and it worked perfectly. I wish that I could find the thread on here. That had to be at least 3 years ago.
 
Where did you find the leather /vinyl repair kit? Auto parts store? Got a pic of the kit?

What's left of the vinyl kit is still on the card, I'll check. A pretty standard offering off the rack - one tube with sheets to make grain or contour. The leather got thoroughly de-greased/cleaned/dried/sanded/prepped before the repair was applied. Super fine grit paper was used on the repairs before the last coat of color. I'll try to get a picture of the wheel. It looks good but is not as supple as new leather.
 
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