Any reviews of Revolution-X torque converters from Full Throttle?

95% of the ppl running a PTC aint makn 800-1000 hp so I have no clue wat ur talking about. great street manners with a PTC.

Not everyone is running an 800-1000hp drag car. Some drive on the street and want some street manners to do it with. Not to discount Dusty and his product as the unit and service are at the top.
I cant get that R&R link to open. I'd like to check them out.
I use a place local to me for converter stuff. Much easier to get it restalled without the shipping hassle and wait time. I will say how small the circle of people who do good work is. And they all seem to at least know of each other.
 
The one i used in my own car performed extremely well at the sub 10.50 power level and maintained good coupling at high 9 sec power in a 3600lb car. It performed better than any other sub $1000 converter I have ever used and I've used a lot over the years. It was a non lockup and I can say it is on par with a 9.5" PTC for as fast as 95% on here will ever go at the sub 10.0 level. The converter was a little too loose with 9.50 power thrown at it however I'm sure it could be adjusted a little tighter with some sacrifice on spool up. It can be ordered with a mechanical diode for extra strength over a sprag setup for an additional fee. I will also say that the last one I ordered I requested it be a little tighter down low (2500-2600@0) and very tight on flash for a stock head/cam application that would be very similar to a stock d5 at flash performed exactly as i requested. This converter design allows us to cover the gap between 57mm and 62mm turbines very well when still retaining the low revving stock cam and lousy stock heads and not blowing through a converter up top that's very loose down low that would normally be found in a car. The converter is the single most overlooked component of a quick running drag car. You simply can't make a lousy converter design perform like a good one. Your cars performance will show it. It's amazing everyone knows what turbo they have and how much boost they run but have very little attention is paid to the converters reaction when hit with some high power. If you had a 12.0 car and the converter was working well and you want to run 10.0 the same converter isn't going to work well regardless of the "stall" advertised. The engine has to be in the power band the entire time it's going down the quarter mile or it will not run anywhere near what it could. There is no rule for rpm drop on a shift either. You could have a 200-300rpm drop and slow down if you shifted later or were blowing through the converter then floating the valves.

Are you referring to the R&R tc or another one?
 
The one i used in my own car performed extremely well at the sub 10.50 power level and maintained good coupling at high 9 sec power in a 3600lb car. It performed better than any other sub $1000 converter I have ever used and I've used a lot over the years. It was a non lockup and I can say it is on par with a 9.5" PTC for as fast as 95% on here will ever go at the sub 10.0 level. The converter was a little too loose with 9.50 power thrown at it however I'm sure it could be adjusted a little tighter with some sacrifice on spool up. It can be ordered with a mechanical diode for extra strength over a sprag setup for an additional fee. I will also say that the last one I ordered I requested it be a little tighter down low (2500-2600@0) and very tight on flash for a stock head/cam application that would be very similar to a stock d5 at flash performed exactly as i requested. This converter design allows us to cover the gap between 57mm and 62mm turbines very well when still retaining the low revving stock cam and lousy stock heads and not blowing through a converter up top that's very loose down low that would normally be found in a car. The converter is the single most overlooked component of a quick running drag car. You simply can't make a lousy converter design perform like a good one. Your cars performance will show it. It's amazing everyone knows what turbo they have and how much boost they run but have very little attention is paid to the converters reaction when hit with some high power. If you had a 12.0 car and the converter was working well and you want to run 10.0 the same converter isn't going to work well regardless of the "stall" advertised. The engine has to be in the power band the entire time it's going down the quarter mile or it will not run anywhere near what it could. There is no rule for rpm drop on a shift either. You could have a 200-300rpm drop and slow down if you shifted later or were blowing through the converter then floating the valves.
How does it multiply torque on light throttle for street manners ? can you get them custom for any givin combo? or the off the shelf covers a wide range? im talking the range of 10.80s to 10.30's... Just skeptical because of the cheap price..ive used bout 10 different converters and all the ones under $700 never worked well..
 
How does it multiply torque on light throttle for street manners ? can you get them custom for any givin combo? or the off the shelf covers a wide range? im talking the range of 10.80s to 10.30's... Just skeptical because of the cheap price..ive used bout 10 different converters and all the ones under $700 never worked well..
The ones I've used were very similar to a PTC 9.5". I'm not sure about off the shelf or whatever. I explain what I want and so far that's what I've received. To be realistic there's probably 3 different converters needed between stock and 10.0. 4100 flash (stock), 4200-4300 flash, 4700-4800 flash, 5000-5200 flash. How they react down low will depend on the design. Same as turbos. Like the stock turbo down to 12.0, te44 to low 11's, 60-1 to mid 10's, and te45 to 10.0. The thing that really matters is how it's applied.
 
I have Dave Husek's 3021 in my car along with his rebuild (since this past September). I can't compare apples to apples on the total difference as I went from a manual transbrake to no Tbrake and a PTC 9.5 to Dave's spec'd 3021. The transbrake/PTC 9.5 version (which I've had for about 5 years) launched like a rocket (it should, it's a freakin' Tbrake!). However, that 3021 couples like mad once out of the hole and my top end charge is awesome! I went from a fastest of 11.00's @ 124mph on the old combo to 10.70's @ 131mph ...even though my 60' slowed down without the Tbrake. Incredible! If I can tune my 60' to 1.60's again (if I believe half the stuff on the forums here, that should be easy), I can theoretically run 10.40's. I didn't change anything else between the rebuild. I like the way Husek's 3021 drives on the street, too. He's had his 3021 for at least a few years and was tweaking it further when I decided to change from the PTC. I got that same email from FTS recently on the spring sale and the RevX looks very similar. But, I'm extremely happy with the 3021 and I have no desire to change it out again. Heck, I still have an original Art Carr 9" from '89 sitting in my torque converter "collection" in the crawlspace...

Husek spent plenty of time on the phone with me planning the build, which included countless questions on what my motor build and turbo are and my ultimate goal; street car driven to work and mid-10's at the track. I think that is key; knowing your combo and tailoring the converter for it.
 
well, I just looked at the torque converter on the website...and I don't know anything about it except it looks extremely similar to the torque converter I purchased from Dave Husek.

I will say the Torque converter 3021 from Dave Husek is amazingly good and if I needed to purchase another one (not because this one won't last, but because I purchased another GN) I wouldn't hesitate to call Dave up.

If your in the market for a torque converter, I recommend calling Dave. He has a wealth of knowledge and will steer you in the right direction of your goals.
 
Ive enjoyed the feedback. I have a precision converter I bought in 2007 that worked great when I was in the 12s and 13s but now Im knocking on 10s door and i have a lot of slip.
 
well, I just looked at the torque converter on the website...and I don't know anything about it except it looks extremely similar to the torque converter I purchased from Dave Husek.
Ok,I'll say it. Someone purchased a converter from Dave and is copying it. There is,however,one aspect that they will not be able to copy.
 
95% of the ppl running a PTC aint makn 800-1000 hp so I have no clue wat ur talking about. great street manners with a PTC.
You brought up the tsm aspect, 99% of people running a ptc aren't running tsm either. I like my lock up and stated that Dusty has a great product. Reinventing the round wheel is what hot rodding is all about. I might not know what I'm talking about but I can post it here with confidence.
 
You have to love some of the things you read on here.

I have also heard you have to have a race car to run a PTC yet the 9.5 is the only converter used in 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 second Buicks. It's overkill for a 12 second car price wise IMO but many have bought them. The 9.5 has been 10's on stock engines which is usually reserved for lock-up multi disc converters only.

As far as looking at the outside of a converter. Many will look the same because everyone uses the same cores for the most part. The lock-up's will be a GM245 in most cases. Anyone who can cut open a converter can copy it identically down to the finest detail. However if Dave's is a GM245 and the FTSS is a 9" then FTSS hasn't copied Dave's. I'm really surprised it's taken over 10 years to have something that can compare to the PTC. The only reason the 9.5 isn't easily copied is because of the core expense and the hand work required to build the stator is more than most care to put into a converter. As I've heard before from guys who want to sell them "There isn't enough profit margin".

Bison has tested the FTSS converter and has had good luck with it and he knows his stuff. I'm not sure what core is used or even what size it's supposed to be. The fact is there are many options out there and several of them work well.
 
However if Dave's is a GM245 and the FTSS is a 9" then FTSS hasn't copied Dave's.
You know Dave's converter is a 245 mm converter and you also know that Full Throttle's RevolutionX is a 245 mm converter. This thread is about the RevolutionX. It's disingenuous of you to try and make us believe that they are different and that because of this,one couldn't be a copy of the other. I would also hope that you would be aware of the fact that what some call a 9 inch converter is also a 245 mm converter with a 9" stator.
Disingenuous at best.
No one has ever used this particular pump with its negative fin angle. Dave came up with this idea and now we see it in the RevolutionX. The only other converter that I've seen this on is from PRNDDL Performance Transmissions which is 26 miles down the road from Full Throttle.
I don't think there are a hand full of people who can understand and duplicate all of the theory and engineering that goes into Daves converters.
I don't have a RevolutionX,but I would bet that it gets the job done. Bison likes the ones he has tested.
It would have been nice if you would have also acknowledged the testimony of nightrain in post #25 of this thread.

You certainly do have to love some of the things you read on hear.
 
The testimony in post 25 is meaningless as far as the PTC converter goes. The 3022 converter is obviously a better fit for his combo when compared to the PTC. The question is, what blade number did he have, what was the shift rpm? When you a shooting for a rpm wondow going down the track, and you shift well before the converter couples, you will go slower. I went from 10.21@134 to 9.86@138 when i first switched to a PTC. The 10.21 run was shifting at 5500, where the converter started to couple. The 9.86 was shifting at 6000. The same 60', boost, timing, and afr on both runs.
 
You know Dave's converter is a 245 mm converter and you also know that Full Throttle's RevolutionX is a 245 mm converter. This thread is about the RevolutionX. It's disingenuous of you to try and make us believe that they are different and that because of this,one couldn't be a copy of the other. I would also hope that you would be aware of the fact that what some call a 9 inch converter is also a 245 mm converter with a 9" stator.
Disingenuous at best.
No one has ever used this particular pump with its negative fin angle. Dave came up with this idea and now we see it in the RevolutionX. The only other converter that I've seen this on is from PRNDDL Performance Transmissions which is 26 miles down the road from Full Throttle.
I don't think there are a hand full of people who can understand and duplicate all of the theory and engineering that goes into Daves converters.
I don't have a RevolutionX,but I would bet that it gets the job done. Bison likes the ones he has tested.
It would have been nice if you would have also acknowledged the testimony of nightrain in post #25 of this thread.

You certainly do have to love some of the things you read on hear.

No actually I don't know what core either of them are using. I just saw where FTSS was claimed to be a 9" which there are cores that are out there to build a 9" with and could be built similar to the old 9" Art Carr's.

No one can claim FTSS has copied Dave's or vice versa unless they know which one came 1st and what the exact combination of pieces inside are made of. There are so many variations of the 245mm and every single converter builder in the world has used the 245mm so just because you use the same core doesn't mean it's a copy. Here is sonnax's stall chart for your reference http://www.sonnax.com/pdfs/3-stall-speed-chart This is the main reason why many people prefer the 245mm core. Parts are the cheapest you can find and picking a stall is like walking a buffet line. They don't have to know anything about how a converter works, all they have to know is what part to buy to change the stall speed and how to read a chart. As you can see you can use a wide variation of pieces to achieve similar stall speeds. There are easily over 19 variations of the 245mm using just the sonnax pieces, even more if you do some custom stator work. The size of the stator doesn't dictate the size of the converter but anyone is free to call it whatever they want. If I put a 8" stator in a 10" converter I would call it a 10". Most refer to the GM245mm as a 9.5 for obvious reasons.......it's 9.646 inches wide. I call my GM245mm a 10" because I have other converters that were using the 9.5 designation.

I can promise you a negative fin angle pump has been used before, it's very common in nitrous applications. The reason you don't see it in a lot of turbo cars is because it's not known for it's coupling ability in low rpm apps however with the right stator you can tighten that up. I prefer a positive fin angle myself.

I did not acknowledge nighttrain's post because there's obviously more to the story. I'm glad his issue was resolved. He had a trans rebuilt so obviously something was wrong with the trans causing those issues. If you think there's really that much difference in the 2 converters performance wise then I'm wiling to put some skin in the game. Send me your 3021 and I'll put it in a local car that runs 11.0's. If it picks up 7mph I'll send you the converter back along with whatever amount you paid for it. You get a free converter out of the deal. If it doesn't pick it up, you pay me the purchase price of your converter for my time and I still send your converter back. Sounds like a really safe bet on your part??

The fact is all 3 converters have proven to work well. Some have had issues, some have nothing but gains. There's enough converter business out there for everyone which is why there are so many companies who sell them.
 
I just saw where FTSS was claimed to be a 9"
The first two torque converters advertised on Full Throttle's transmission page are 9.5" Revolution X. These are the converters the O.P. is asking about. Did you have difficulty finding these?

No one can claim FTSS has copied Dave's or vice versa unless they know which one came 1st
So one of the biggest obstacles standing in the way is determining which one came first? Really?

I can promise you a negative fin angle pump has been used before, it's very common in nitrous applications.
The problem with this statement is that we are not talking about nitrous,high revving V8 engines. In the turbo Buick community,it's only been used in Dave's converters until now.

The reason you don't see it in a lot of turbo cars is because it's not known for it's coupling ability in low rpm apps however with the right stator you can tighten that up. I prefer a positive fin angle myself.
Despite these facts,Full Throttle is marketing a converter using this pump. Dave has been using this pump,that you say doesn't couple,for two years. Bison has determined that it couples well.
 
I didn't go look at all but thanks for checking on it for me. I just saw a post about the FTSS piece and know it has worked well for people. I've heard it called a 9" non lock up and was compared to my 9.5 non lock.

I don't know which one came first either. Never cared about the details. So your accusing FTSS of buying one of Dave's converters and having it copied? What I'm getting from you is Dave either builds his own or has someone build them for him and FTSS has gotten one of Dave's and copied it or they are buying from the same company Dave is and calling it their own??

When discussing why certain pumps and stators are used you should know that tq is the main item to consider. It doesn't have to be a high reving motor. The converter doesn't know if it's a nitrous car or turbo car. The negative fin angle stuff is common in the nitrous stuff because they have instant tq at the push of a button, they don't have to wait for a turbo to spool. I never said the negative fin angle won't couple. I said you have to use the correct stator to make it couple which tends to lower the 1# stall speed number. Dave has obviously found a combination that works for him. The 245mm converter I used in my TSS car that went 10.90's 18 years ago used a slightly negative angle. I just prefer the positive angle personally.
 
I said you have to use the correct stator to make it couple which tends to lower the 1# stall speed number.
This is what has happened when people,who you know,have tried using this kind of pump. When Dave puts his own theories and ideas into practice,this isn't the case. The converters he sells are of his own design. Before he put his theories and designs into practice,it was common to experience the results that you have spoken of here. For two years Dave has been producing different results. Mike is now offering a converter with the same pump that had never produced satisfactory results in the past.

Things that make you go HMMMM!
 
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The one i used in my own car performed extremely well at the sub 10.50 power level and maintained good coupling at high 9 sec power in a 3600lb car. It performed better than any other sub $1000 converter I have ever used and I've used a lot over the years. It was a non lockup and I can say it is on par with a 9.5" PTC for as fast as 95% on here will ever go at the sub 10.0 level. The converter was a little too loose with 9.50 power thrown at it however I'm sure it could be adjusted a little tighter with some sacrifice on spool up. It can be ordered with a mechanical diode for extra strength over a sprag setup for an additional fee. I will also say that the last one I ordered I requested it be a little tighter down low (2500-2600@0) and very tight on flash for a stock head/cam application that would be very similar to a stock d5 at flash performed exactly as i requested. This converter design allows us to cover the gap between 57mm and 62mm turbines very well when still retaining the low revving stock cam and lousy stock heads and not blowing through a converter up top that's very loose down low that would normally be found in a car. The converter is the single most overlooked component of a quick running drag car. You simply can't make a lousy converter design perform like a good one. Your cars performance will show it. It's amazing everyone knows what turbo they have and how much boost they run but have very little attention is paid to the converters reaction when hit with some high power. If you had a 12.0 car and the converter was working well and you want to run 10.0 the same converter isn't going to work well regardless of the "stall" advertised. The engine has to be in the power band the entire time it's going down the quarter mile or it will not run anywhere near what it could. There is no rule for rpm drop on a shift either. You could have a 200-300rpm drop and slow down if you shifted later or were blowing through the converter then floating the valves.


Finally. You are admitting that it is a good converter.

I'm glad you tried it and liked it.

That is the builder I've been using for two years and you and others drug me through the mud in that thread that I won't mention but I'm sure you remember.

He makes a top notch unit in both LU and NLU. I'm not starting any crap, just saying that in the future before you give someone a beat down look at where they are coming from.

BTW I agree with everything that you said in this post. (y)
 
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