Front cover oil pan gasket cork mixed with rubber

T

Turbo6Justin

New Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2004
This is a simple question and I am sure it has been answered but the search terms either give my every post ever made or nothing. Pulled the front cover tonight in order to start a cam swap. The oil pan has a rubber seal on it now. When I removed the front cover it looks like the rubber seal is stretched because as it sits now it is very lose. I know it will be a problem getting it where it was supposed to be so I think cutting it at the front of the block is the best option. The fel-pro front cover seal set I am going to use has the cork piece for the bottom of the front cover.

Is it okay to mix the cork front piece with the rubber for the rest of the oil pan? I am worried that it will mess with the spacing but the front cover is located by the dowels so that should be in the right spot.

I would rather not have to replace the complete oil pan gasket since the motor is still in the car.
 
the best method is to drop the pan and do it right. If you've never had the pan off now would be a good time to get the timing teeth out of the pan and replace the pickup with one that doesn't have a trap door.

If you just can't drop the pan, yank the dowels out of the block so you can position the cover then drive them back in after your set it down on the sealing jizz covered gasket.


....then hope for the best.
 
I personally have never had the pan off this motor but it has been off before. Actually it is a GM shortblock ordered from GM back when you could still do that.

It does already have a double roller timing chain so no bits to find. I am not sure on the oil pick-up. It does have the timing chain tensioner installed on the roller chain which I am thinking should be removed. The plastic is wore down pretty good.
 
Agree with Earl. Drop the pan and replace the dang leaky rubber pan gasket with a cork gasket AFTER you install the timing cover. Not a,real pain in the butt if you have a good set of wobbly sockets to get to 4 of the bolts. Don't have universal sockets? Buy some! Just tell the wife they are saving you money.
Just buy two Makita cordless drills and a tool belt and walk into the kitchen like John Wayne with both your hands on the drills, and (in your best John Wayne voice) yell, "GO AHEAD BITCH.........BREAK SOMETHING!!!!!! I'M READY!!!"
Women LOVE that!!!!!
(Been married for 34+ years. Listen to me)
Then crawl under your car and R&R the pan gasket and do it right, once.:p
 
I just had a chick knock on my door while drinking beers... I replied ''nobodys home and I'm watching Putin videos on the youtubes and drinking fucking beers''.


...next thing you know I'm not sleeping along tonight. Women r dumb.

Also, just because the engine is fresh, DON'T assUme the pan is clean, the pickup was replaced, and the job was done correctly.

if the dogbones on your doubleroller aren't smooth on the outside, then yes,toss the tentioner.
 
Just buy two Makita cordless drills and a tool belt and walk into the kitchen like John Wayne with both your hands on the drills, and (in your best John Wayne voice) yell, "GO AHEAD BITCH.........BREAK SOMETHING!!!!!! I'M READY!!!"
OMG, Now I know how the "Honey Do List" got started:p
 
You guys are horrible, I am not married, never been but I have never been with a girl that wouldn't walk me straight out of my own house if I said that. Good stuff!

I am not claiming this block is fresh, it was well used by myself and the previous owner. The car sat for years and is being brought back. I never had oil problems but you are right I can't guaranty what is or isn't in the pan. The roller chain went on when the motor was swapped. I am a little more concerned where the timing tensioner material might have gone as I said it is worn enough to be noteworthy. Chances are I will pull the pan but it might be after I get it back together with the cam swap and actually prove after 13 years that it will still run/has good pressure/ not needing a rebuild /etc. Again it was fine when it went to bed 13 years ago and it was stored reasonably well.

If given the choice to try and reuse the front section of the rubber gasket, FOR NOW, or cut it off and use the cork until I can pull the pan and do it right which would you chose?
 
No mix and match, getting the pan off isnt that hard to do. Since you have it apart may as well do it correctly.
 
"If given the choice to try and reuse the front section of the rubber gasket, FOR NOW, or cut it off and use the cork until I can pull the pan and do it right which would you chose?"

If I had to do it that way, I would cut the gasket at the block and use " The Right Stuff " between the pan and front cover. It works fine that way when using a girdle.
 
Agree. Cut the (leaky) rubber gasket at the edge of the block and use ONLY silicone or The Right Stuff. Clean, clean and clean again with brake clean and lint free rags. Then clean one more time for extra measure. I have done this many many times and it works fine, HOWEVER, pull the dang oil pan and have a look see. If it has ever popped a factory style head gasket, you got crud clogging the pickup tube. Change the rear main seal while you are at it. Do it right, do it ONCE! (and use a cork gasket with a light film of Ultra Black on both sides or The Right Stuff if, and only if you work FAST, because that stuff sets up fast.)
 
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