Is something wrong with it??

easy to get out... not so to get in

not too bad,,,, flat head screwdriver popped my out... just be careful the underside of the gromet doesnt shear off into your motor .... the gromet on mine was very hard and dryrotted....

putting in was a bit harder... would recomend disconnecting the one injector clip to give you room... and then us a LARGE flat head to press it in without destroying it... I had a LONG set of these funky pliers I got from harbor freight sale that worked perfectly to grab and press in there too....

good luck!!

Yes- I put in a new PCV valve and the grommet doesn't hold it in tight.

John

Slow91z said:

Is something wrong with it??

Click to expand...

Yankee John said:

Yes- I put in a new PCV valve and the grommet doesn't hold it in tight.

John

Click to expand...

Well that sucks...If I was changing one, I'd try to do it on the car BUT I would be prepared to pull the intake if something went wrong. Good luck

kirban 2 cents worth

Concerning the PCV grommet it is critical you install the reproduction one that was made by Richard Clark...we have them as does Gboydparts.com

their is nothing in the aftemarket world or GM that is correct.

So, be certain you are working with the proper one otherwise it wil not let the pcv seat properly......

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

I just replaced my grommet
I did with fuel rail off which I think made it much easier to get at
I replaced a replacement I had put in previously but hole in grommet was a bit too large so pcv was fitting loosely
Purchased Dorman 42056 and installed as follows
Used long straight needle nose to pull out old
Pushed in driver's side first of new
Then used long straight needle nose to press in bit by bit on bottom lip pushing into hole slowly working the sides and then finally the passenger side bit to finally push in bottom lip
Then stuck needle nose into hole trying to open up the hole a bit
Then petroleum jelly on pcv valve grabbed with long needle noise and twisted into grommet
First try I almost pushed grommet through hole second try I got it in
It is a tight fit that's for sure
hope this helps
Joel

I just replaced mine a few weeks ago too, and it *is* a bugger...but here's how I did mine, without removing the fuel rail.

Getting the old one out was pretty easy; I used a needle-nose pliers to pop it out, then I was able to remove the PCV valve from the hose by pushing inward (towards the manifold, away from your body) at the middle of the hose, while pulling towards me at the bottom of the hose, which bent it into enough of a curve that the PCV could be pulled from the hose.

Putting the new one in was giving me lots of frustration until I did this:

-Inserted the PCV valve in the hose;
-Disconnected the top of the hose from the fitting;
-With the top of the hose disconnected, it was easy to align it straight above the PCV hole in the manifold and press the valve into the hole; spit on the valve a bit to lube it so it'll pop into the hole more easily;
-Reconnect the top part of the hose.

Hope this helps anyone avoid some of the frustration and wasted time.

which grommet did you use?

If it seems to be dry rotted, don't bother. It's going to end up in the valley pan.

I heated some water in a coffee mug, then let the grommet soak for a few minutes. Made it much more flexible and was easier to install. Good luck

Double post sorry

If the question about a grommet was to me, I didn't change mine--the condition of the rubber was fine. However, it's a good point that if it appears dry-rotted, it will probably break up and end up being pushed into the hole.

I wrapped my pcv valve in a couple layers of electrical tape to get a tight fit, because I like doing things the proper way, lol. I just know if I go to pull it out it's going to crumble in pieces and I'll be pulling the intake.

Does the grommet do any harm laying on top of the valley pan? When I replaced mine I found that the hole for the pcv valve was too small, thus the Richard Clark new and improved version. But his grommet hit the market after I replaced mine. So to open up the hole, a friend has a drill bit that is round like a golf ball. It was the perfect size that I needed.

TURBOELKY said:

If it seems to be dry rotted, don't bother. It's going to end up in the valley pan.

Click to expand...

No big deal, in the very early years I had 2 grommets pushed into the intake when installing them. When I pulled the engine after a few years, they both were resting at the rear of the valley pan!

In recent years a big screw driver and some WD-40 cured my issue, and installing about 100 of them on the bench has been very helpful.

Nick Micale said:

No big deal, in the very early years I had 2 grommets pushed into the intake when installing them. When I pulled the engine after a few years, they both were resting at the rear of the valley pan!

In recent years a big screw driver and some WD-40 cured my issue, and installing about 100 of them on the bench has been very helpful.

Click to expand...

I regret not doing mine on the bench. I just put one in and the damn pcv doesn't fit. Lesson learned for the next one lol

My pcv was a very tight fit but did fit in the end
Joel

Sharing my experience and some tips that may help someone else.
I started out just replacing the pcv valve. But when trying to press the valve into the old grommet, the grommet pushed all the way into the intake. At first I went into panic mode. I was able to fish it out with a coat hanger only to do it again and then it was out of site. But I learned this has happened to many others and it's ok to just leave it in the intake and get a new one. Which is best anyway because the rubber is more flexible.


I used a Dorman grommet # 42056.

I made a special tool out of any old screwdriver by grinding a notch in the end of the blade. That is used to hold the grommet in place as you side the rear lip into the hole . Then use another large screwdriver to press the front lip back and down into the hole. First I put the grommet in some very hot water for about 5 minutes to soften it up and make it more flexible.

I did some experimenting with an old pcv valve and a new Dorman grommet # 42056. I cut the flare off the end of the old valve and pressed the throat of the valve into the center hole of this grommet. It was too tight. The throat measured 0.49" and the hole only 0.42" The flare was 0.57" which is very difficult to press in without pushing the grommet into the intake.

So I took a dremel tool with a long grinder bit and removed some of the ID of the grommet. got it to approx. 0.45" That was a good snug fit without excessive force to press it in. And for the flare, I used a cut-off wheel on the dremel to cut 4 vertical notches down the length and just past the flare. That allowed the flare to contract as it's being pushed into the grommet then expand back out once it passes completely through. I worked great.

I also put a very small bead of rtv silicone sealant in the groove of the grommet to fill any small voids and give it a for sure tight seal. Also put a very light coat on the pcv valve to help it slide in the grommet then give a tight seal once it dried. Let is sit overnight before starting the engine to give it cure time.

Final result was a very secure grommet and pcv valve with no vacuum leaks and not to difficult to install.

Hope this helps the next one performing this task.

Oh, and one other tip: Stuff a rag or something inside that tunnel behind the pcv valve. Otherwise that sneaky grommet will try to jump back in there and hide from you. Remember to remove the stuffing after you celebrate getting that pesky grommet installed.