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Here's another pic...I started plug welding the pass floor in this afternoon being that the sheet metal is so thin and very light i used an air punch and stamped holes in the the sheetmetal about every inch or so and plug welded to the floor braces, because the sheet metal is so thin and i can't...

Here's a pic of the floor laying in before welded

I got the 22ga sheet metal cut for the driver and passerside. It is just laying in now still needs welded in and need to cut the steel for around the trans tunnel....well I was hoping to be done with the car this summer but I doubt i will hit my goal so should be ready for track no later than...

here you go heres where im at currently

I've been pretty busy this last couple weeks or so and I havn't got anymore done but I'm starting back at the car again tonight... my wife and kids will be out of town for the next week and half so this time everyyear i'm a bachlor..lol..I useually work day and night in the garage when i'm not...

Damm, I guess I can't read either...LMFAO..I really never noticed that..Damm I really need to take a break..lol This project is starting to drain me this week..lol. Thanks everyone

I will keep everyone posted. but, Im guessing the car to be in the 27-2800 range as far as the weight... i will get it scaled after i lay the floor and bolt the 9inch back under it. but once the glass is changed to the lexan im sure that would make a huge diffrence alone. I threw the 7.5 rear...

Well i appoligize im not able to give an actual number as far as the weight diffrence but comparing how heavy the stock floors and stock braces felt when i pulled them out im positive the new braces and 22ga floor would be lighter than stock..the old floor pans were 16-18 ga and the old braces...

LMFAO..Payed Attention

Yeah,Yeah yeah, Title...lol...I never said I could spell, build cars maybe but not spell worth S##T..I think we need to have you or the powers that be add spell check on here..lol..I only paid attention in shop class..LMAO

Very Very good question, Well all of the boxed steel is between 16-18ga which is the thinnist i could buy so its still pretty light but yet still strong due to the fact its boxed..it looks heaveir then it is cuz ofcourse most commomly avalible boxed steel is 1/8inch thick and larger. I have a...

ok i finaly got the driverside seat mounts welded in (well not completely welded in) i still need to finnish welding all the way around the seat mounts and all the floor braces are just tacked in..once i finnish the passenger side seat mounts i will be busy burning in welds on all the braces...

The way im thinking of doing the seat bracket, i shouldnt have to put extra wholes in floor though , will just have to use diffrent mounting holes on the seat bracket its self to move seat back and forth, if i still cant get alot of extra adjustment options then i will make 2 diffrent floor...

Yep, your right, thats what i was trying to say..lol..well put charlie...i just reread it and i guess it does sould little more complicated then what my brain was thinking...lol..thats what happens when i dont get enough sleep..lol..but yeah..was just going to make several holes in the bracket...

Well I took some measurements last night as to where I want to mount the front seats. I will update with pics once i weld in the seat mount braces.im useing a lighter gauge 1x2 box steel to brace the front seats to where its not too heavy but still strong enough to secure the seats solid in the...

Charlie, I can see that It must have been quite a journey. It's defiantly an interesting thread though....lot of great INFO..

:cool: You got it bud! I really owe ya.....I swear..... I only planned on doing notch/tub..:D ..My problem is I dont know when to quit, I start somthing small and it turns into a larger project..

I used some scrap 1/8 thick flat stock i had laying around in the center of the trans hump to give the hurst rachet shifter somthing stronger to bolt to..It is 2 inch wide flat stock and i just tacked 2 pieces side byside flush in the center.. I didnt really want to add any boxed steel there and...

oh yeah i forgot to add if useing a mig i would snip the end of your wire for each tack that you make because when it leave a little ball of weld on the end of the wire you have to use more heat with the mig to melt it so if you snip the end of wire each time should give you nice sharp wire to...

IMO-You may be better off at this point with good ole dolley/hammer adding aditional heat to sheet metal/body pannels could be it's worst enemy...It don't look too bad from the pic..but then again it prob more noticeable for by feel or naked eye...but i'd personally not try to add any heat to it...