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Beef that stuff up with some new wiring. If you need to swap polarity it's no big deal. Just de-pin it and swap. https://www.racetronix.biz/p/blt1-fuel-pump-wiring-harness-hd/fpwh-018 https://www.racetronix.biz/p/blt1-bulkhead-wiring-assembly-hd-tyco/bcwa-blt1 fpwh-018 has a grounding ring...

Spring is here! Getting the wagon out of storage this weekend. Plans include an ignition upgrade to a Cruz 12-1 trigger and a fresh fuel filter.

New switch too. Might want to put new seals inside too. If it's leaking down internally, you'll be able to tell if it cycles the pump while it's just sitting there doing nothing (key on ofcourse)

I'd be interested in the re-wound motor rotors but that's probably about it. That's what caught my attention. I rebuild quite a few powermasters locally, I always use seal kits from Pete Hoffman / Richard Clark. Along with new delco switches and hydac accumulators from where ever. I have an...

Nope. Just came across it recently when looking. My buddy just called them, no answer......

https://www.powerbrakex-change.com/manufacturer.php?id=3453

I think it’s the same car. Can’t be many like it lol.

Not positive but looks like my buddy ended up with that car? Or a really similar one

installed one last summer in our station wagon. Works nicely and it dropped right in.

Which ECU are you using?

Shnikeys

Check for 12V power at the ignition module, and check out this little video.

https://www.originalair.com/1984-87-buick-grand-national-t-type-regal-evaporator-coil

heavy knock signal during cranking is normal. Valve float gives off a knock signal too. May need some more spring pressure. Preload shoot for .040”

Try richard clarks garage

That’s a beauty

High compression ratio will help to spiff it up.

NITEMER is legit. The engine he has available is near Denver.