Add this to the parts to keep on hand. PCV Valve

[Pronto]

The plastic check valves will fail fast.

The one I got from US Plastics is still going strong after 5 years. I had to buy 10 so I passed a bunch out to friends. No one has said theirs is not working anymore.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Its in the second pic about 2" from the filter. I have no idea how the pcv system works there. Unless I'm not seeing everything, looks like one valve cover is connected to the other and that's it.

Whens the last time you pulled it out to check it? LOL! Unless it's automotive or industrial grade I don't see it lasting. Just my $.02

 

[Pronto]

One month ago. Still seals like a champ and opens very easily.

 

[GNRick]

I just installed mine today so we will see. I only bought two. Shipping was more than the valves.

 

[GNICETRY]

Its in the second pic about 2" from the filter. I have no idea how the pcv system works there. Unless I'm not seeing everything, looks like one valve cover is connected to the other and that's it.

In the first pic the bottom hose of the PCV catchcan has the check valve in it about 4" from the can. In the second pic the big thing is the filter and then the booster already has a checkvalve in it (not really seen in the photo). I also put a check valve about 2" from the filter (as was stated) in the brake booster vacuum line. The valves look pretty stock painted black as you can see.
The passenger side valve cover is vented to a oil separater/breather that is routed by the driver's side. On the driver's side there is "T" fitting and then the oil/fumes goes to the Moroso breather catch can. Not the most ideal setup but I worked with what I had

The plastic check valves will fail fast.

I know there are a lot of people on this board using that valve. I have never heard anything bad or negative about it. I ask very humbly; do you have any links or web pages that talk negatively about the check valve? I just have not seen any.

Also on a side note my BLM's would climb to about 140 when idling for about 5 mins with my old (I believe) ATR check valve. With the US Plastic one installed they were pegged at 128 after idling for about 5 mins. Great Job Erik (TurboTweak)

 

[Antbankstwo3]

This is some good info. I'm actually replacing my PCV for the first time. It's stuck in there pretty good. I heard that can happen.

Is there any trick or special way to get it out.

 

[GNRick]

I think I would try turning it first to loosen it, then spray silicone or WD-40 or something to lube it and give it a good pull. The plastic one from AutoZone that Eric recommended broke when I tried to pull it out. It already had failed from the heat. I'm hoping the check valve will last longer as it is not right in the motor.

 

[VtheGNMan]

Great info guys! I ordered a few check valves from US Plastics and got them on Sat. They were really quick getting them sent out. I will get it installed right away. Does this take the main stress off the brass PCV valve then?

 

[GNRick]

Great info guys! I ordered a few check valves from US Plastics and got them on Sat. They were really quick getting them sent out. I will get it installed right away. Does this take the main stress off the brass PCV valve then?

I think the stock valve is aluminum, but yes it seems that maybe whatever air gets passed it while in boost would be totally blocked by the stock valve. I just made a 180 mile trip with no ill effects.

 

[Antbankstwo3]

I think I would try turning it first to loosen it, then spray silicone or WD-40 or something to lube it and give it a good pull. The plastic one from AutoZone that Eric recommended broke when I tried to pull it out. It already had failed from the heat. I'm hoping the check valve will last longer as it is not right in the motor.

Great info! I will try it!