Block options.....

[Andeww Thomasy]

Ok so I've tried doing research elsewhere had no avail...so I saw a post about a t type for sale guy said his regal had a 4.1 lc4 block turbo build that he replaced the original lc2 ....my question is what other larger bore v6 block can we use to build upon and what I mean by that is say I threw a rod in my original lc2 so the block is gone no salvage but everything else is fine...what blocks other then the lc2 could the heads cam and intake bolt onto along with the accessories from my original engine?

 

[earlbrown]

Our blocks are LC2 specific. They're just plain ole 109 castings.

 

[dank GN]

Here you go some info u whee looking for https://www.teambuick.com/reference/casting_numbers_231-252.php

 

[Andeww Thomasy]

al

Our blocks are LC2 specific. They're just plain ole 109 castings.

all the research ive done shows that the LC2 109 v6 is specific to the turbo regals and turbo trans am.... what im asking is what other v6 blocks can the stock heads and cam and intake bolt onto ... im wondering because im looking for a cheaper option then stroking a 3.8 or buying a stage motor....im trying to find out if the lc4 4.1 v6 block from and 82 regal can have the stock turbo heads from 87 and cam bolt right on.....or if there is any other option like the 4.3 v6 from later years

 

[ek02]

Every part from a LC2109 will work on a LC4 4.1 except the pistons, head gaskets, oil pan, and some front covers. The cam has to have a groove on the front journal to oil the drivers side lifters. If the cam has no groove, you need TA rear groove cam bearings or a groove needs to be cut in the front cam bearing tunnel like a 109 block. There are numerous 4.1 builds on here to search for information. 4.1 blocks are becoming hard to find though.

 

[turbodave231]

The only blocks that will accept the stock parts are Buick RWD V6 blocks from around 1980 until 1987. None of the FWD blocks would be a simple replacement. During the 1985 calendar year, the BV6 block went from 14 bolt oil pans.front covers to 20 bolt. So early blocks require a different pan and front cover. The 109 block has features that are not found on blocks prior to 1986. Those features are: Deep countersunk head bolt holes, and a lower deck height of 9.522".

The 109 block is not substantially stronger than any other Buick V6 production block. The deep head bolt holes do help limit deck and bore distortion according to the Buick engineers I have spoke with.

The Buick V6 shares no major components with any other GM V6 such as the chev 4.3......... yuk!!!.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Ok so I've tried doing research elsewhere had no avail...so I saw a post about a t type for sale guy said his regal had a 4.1 lc4 block turbo build that he replaced the original lc2 ....my question is what other larger bore v6 block can we use to build upon and what I mean by that is say I threw a rod in my original lc2 so the block is gone no salvage but everything else is fine...what blocks other then the lc2 could the heads cam and intake bolt onto along with the accessories from my original engine?

Why complicate things? Do you think the 3.8 liter displacement will limit your power potential? Are you looking for an easy way to go north of 600 HP and you believe higher displacement is the key?
Do you want to do a full motor build? You could always go with a 4.1 off center stage motor. But even this is much different than bolting on your stock stuff and going on your way!

But thankfully Buick already gave most of us what we need to have a killer street car. Maybe just get another 109, build it, or keep building on it until it gets you into the 9's and keep it simple.

 

[rag231]

Anderww you have a very impressive recipe build on your motor. Keep it simple and find another 109 block. Maybe this time forge the rods and crank, and billet caps for peace of mind. I am still pounding the original 109 that came in my car. I brought a back up 109 and had the works done to it thinking that I was going to tear it up, but not yet. New tricks to make them live have been created and I would need a little updating to bring that block into service.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Ok so I've tried doing research elsewhere had no avail...so I saw a post about a t type for sale guy said his regal had a 4.1 lc4 block turbo build that he replaced the original lc2 ....my question is what other larger bore v6 block can we use to build upon and what I mean by that is say I threw a rod in my original lc2 so the block is gone no salvage but everything else is fine...what blocks other then the lc2 could the heads cam and intake bolt onto along with the accessories from my original engine?

the 109 can make big power with just Pistons and caps.

 

[Andeww Thomasy]

I appreciate all the replys ....as far something different ideas to get a larger stroke engine for the sound not some much the power ....if we're to bolt everything I have on to a 4.1 the only difference in power would be torque but the car would sound different a little throaty ....that's just me but I was looking for a cheaper alternative to having to stroke my 3.8 or a cheaper alternative to a different build I had in mind in which I wanted to stroke the 4.1 out as far as could then bold my current stuff on just ideas and maybe info for what's possible and I know I can get a lot of power out of my 3.8 I do get a decent amount now

 

[earlbrown]

al

all the research ive done shows that the LC2 109 v6 is specific to the turbo regals and turbo trans am....

The ONLY thing that makes a 109 casting 'turbo specific' is the tapped hole for the turbo drain. A plain ole 1/2"NPT thread can convert any 109 3.8 into a 'turbo block'. The only difference is the N/A block would have lived a much more docile life than a used 'turbo' block.

Now as far as moving everything over to a 4.1 that's pretty easy too. You'll need pistons, a rebalance (if you like to balance) and a 14 bolt timing cover or double drill the cover to work with a 14 bolt block. The heads, valve covers, intake, etc will bolt right up.

I recommend hand grooving the front cam bore to supply oil to the DS rather than using grooved bearings or cams.


The hardest part will be finding a 4.1 block. The rest is easy.

 

[achalmersman]

I recommend hand grooving the front cam bore to supply oil to the DS rather than using grooved bearings or cams.

Is there a reason other than cost? Just curious. I spent $100 on cam bearings and I am hoping you're not saying that was a mistake lol.



No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

 

[slay]

I found a 3.8 N/A 109 block fairly easy looking around car part but was looking today for 4.1 and there were very few listings.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

I appreciate all the replys ....as far something different ideas to get a larger stroke engine for the sound not some much the power ....if we're to bolt everything I have on to a 4.1 the only difference in power would be torque but the car would sound different a little throaty ....that's just me but I was looking for a cheaper alternative to having to stroke my 3.8 or a cheaper alternative to a different build I had in mind in which I wanted to stroke the 4.1 out as far as could then bold my current stuff on just ideas and maybe info for what's possible and I know I can get a lot of power out of my 3.8 I do get a decent amount now

Wait a minute. I must have done something wrong. My car doesn't sound throaty! It sounds like two Honda Civics running along side of each other!

I'm afraid a Buick V6 may not be the way to go for the intimidating throaty sound growl.

 

[earlbrown]

Is there a reason other than cost? Just curious. I spent $100 on cam bearings and I am hoping you're not saying that was a mistake lol.

Its just a permanent solution to an issue, AND it's free. I like those.

Plus when the block is grooved, it allows to use plain ole Durabond bearings and an ungrooved roller cam without issue.

 

[earlbrown]

I'm afraid a Buick V6 may not be the way to go for the intimidating throaty sound growl.

I HATE the way a Buick V6 sounds at full honk. Mine sounds mean as hell at idle, cruise, and accelerating with a nice whistle....


But at WOT it sounds like a big ass goose not a hotrod.