Just recently got the car back together. Been having issues with the car just not running right. I have a pressure gauge on the rail, and fuel pressure is fine.
First I checked the header tubes with a temp gun and noticed #2 and #6 were colder at idle by about 200 degrees so I figured that coil was bad which feeds both of those cylinders. I have 3 spare coils and all of them including the one I suspected was bad all check out good ~11K ohm. I swappd all of them, and no change in behavior with any of them.
The car went from running rough to a backfire/no start condition. I've checked the cam sensor with a cam sensor tool and it is in the right spot and triggers the sensor. I've pulled plugs and the injectors are wet which led me to believe the crank sensor is ok as the injectors are firing. When I pull a plug out and crank the motor over I get no spark. But when it tries to start I will see a spark. So spark is intermittent.
I took the three modules I had to O'Riellys to check on their machine. On their machine they all checked out bad. So I picked up a new Borg Warner module (CPE 100). Put it on, and the car still wouldn't start. Took the new module to be checked on the machine, and it checked bad. Got the other new module they had in stock, and it checked bad. Took it home, and car wouldn't start. Had them order 3 more new modules, all of them checked out bad. Took my new module that was "bad" to another store. They checked it on their machine, and it checks out good. So now I need to take all my bad modules to that store and have them checked again and see if I can determine which machine is right.
Ugh...
The computer in the car is set up for low impedance injectors. So, I'm going to go back and check the cam and crank sensor again, check all the coils again, and then move to swapping the computer with a spare stock computer I have along with some 42# high impedance injectors to try to rule out the computer.
Just looking for anything I might have missed, or anything I may have overlooked, or any other suggestions.
First I checked the header tubes with a temp gun and noticed #2 and #6 were colder at idle by about 200 degrees so I figured that coil was bad which feeds both of those cylinders. I have 3 spare coils and all of them including the one I suspected was bad all check out good ~11K ohm. I swappd all of them, and no change in behavior with any of them.
The car went from running rough to a backfire/no start condition. I've checked the cam sensor with a cam sensor tool and it is in the right spot and triggers the sensor. I've pulled plugs and the injectors are wet which led me to believe the crank sensor is ok as the injectors are firing. When I pull a plug out and crank the motor over I get no spark. But when it tries to start I will see a spark. So spark is intermittent.
I took the three modules I had to O'Riellys to check on their machine. On their machine they all checked out bad. So I picked up a new Borg Warner module (CPE 100). Put it on, and the car still wouldn't start. Took the new module to be checked on the machine, and it checked bad. Got the other new module they had in stock, and it checked bad. Took it home, and car wouldn't start. Had them order 3 more new modules, all of them checked out bad. Took my new module that was "bad" to another store. They checked it on their machine, and it checks out good. So now I need to take all my bad modules to that store and have them checked again and see if I can determine which machine is right.
Ugh...The computer in the car is set up for low impedance injectors. So, I'm going to go back and check the cam and crank sensor again, check all the coils again, and then move to swapping the computer with a spare stock computer I have along with some 42# high impedance injectors to try to rule out the computer.
Just looking for anything I might have missed, or anything I may have overlooked, or any other suggestions.
