ShaunKris
#PROJECT84FORIA
- Joined
- May 13, 2018
I'll start with Thanks to everybody involved that has helped me with this installation. Steve V, Justin S, Bob B, Eric M, Julio D, Norbs D, Kurtis W, Jason G, Christian N... man I could go on about who has helped even with the simplest things. THANKS!
So anyone who has a better understand or can word something better than I do here PLEASE speak up and contribute . Thanks in advance!
Also this is in progress at the time of this write up. #project84foria
We all want to modernize our cars for various reasons, the hunt for power, reliability, cool factor, so many reasons for each of us. I personally wanted all of those plus safety for my car to protect it should a pump fail or loss of oil pressure or any of those things that can happen and destroy your investment. The cost of setting this up is not cheap but it IS the best insurance you can get for an old car that you dumped a lot of money into to get that extra fun factor.
All of the documentation you need is available for reference from either Caspers.com, Turbotweaksupport.com, DD-efi.com, or on any of their pages on Facebook. I also started a thread on Turbotweaksupport under the title 'ECUGN Integration and hard wiring' specifically for the ECUGN. NOW.. humor me this is the first time I have done anything like this so some thing may seem rudimentary to some of you which should just make it seem cooler that it is so easy for those of you. For the rest of us dumb asses, that is why I'm doing this. I wanted to do something similar but with respect to Eric and his focus, I figured it was better to do the write up of the Dash integration here.
First you will need the DD-efi dash, and the ECU-gn. Then you need to read a bit. Caspers has lots of stuff to learn at Index of / there you will find all of Caspers diagrams and installation help.
DD-efi has it here- https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0204/7121/8240/files/Pro_Dash_Quickstart_Guide.pdf?v=1692835645
Caspers has it here- Analog dash cluster pin out- https://installationinstructions.com/103071.pdf
Turbotweaksupport has a lot here- ecu-GN Frequently Asked Questions
This is the link to my thread on Turbotweakforum- ECUGN Integration and hard wiring
From these links you have more or less all of the information you require unless you are like me..
I needed the cereal box decoder to understand some things and thanks to names mentioned above I learned some stuff, so here it is..
*some things to remember- DISCONNECT the battery, Fuse all power leads, Check your grounds, test your relays, MAKE SURE you are connecting to the ECM properly, leave a 'little' extra on your wire connections, take your time.
1-Digital inputs are for things like indicators or lights, or turn signals. Kurtis-"You can use any of the Digital Inputs as a trigger for an indicator on your dashboard"
2-Analog inputs are for things like Sensors, ie: oil pressure, water temperature, etc.
3-On the Instrument cluster Pinout diagram ie: Pin 1 (pnk/blk) Battery Voltage = 12v IGN (switched source) power source that turns on with the key.
SO, you can connect the DD-efi 12v Ignition (yellow) here.
3a-Pin 10 Battery Voltage (gry) is for the dimmer and does not like LED's.
4-I really wanted a clean ground because as you probably have figured out by now and as all the experienced guys already figured out grounding is a nightmare for these things and most people don't understand how important this is. I ran a ground wire straight to the battery. I got a ground post kit from Caspers to ensure all my grounds were 100%. The kit comes with a strap for the engine to firewall and four leads. I ran #1 lead to the battery, #2 lead to the driver fender, #3 lead to the dash, #4 lead to the ecm.
5.USE RELAYS for your high current devices, ie: Pumps, Fans, etc. you can run the 'switch" wires directly to the ecm or dash.
6.Learn what the different output and inputs are on the ECU and the DASH. For example, I have the ALKY Control replacement tank on the fender and wasn't sure how to get the 'low fluid' to appear on the dash (as far as hard wiring goes). I did not understand how the low fluid switch worked. I thought I did but I was corrected and glad somebody (Eric) told me. I originally was going to send voltage to the switch through the brown lead and ground it on the fender..duh. After learning that was not going to work and a conversation with Kurtis I removed (from fender) and extended the ground wire (blk) to the 5vREF, and connected the ground lead to a digital input on the DDash. So now when the tank is low the circuit will close and the dash can see the closed circuit and show a 'low level' light.
7.You don't need to connect everything. the Dash connects to the ECU-gn via a CAN-H & CAN-L signal. They will chat faster than a couple of school girls..no lag at all.
So no need for any redundancy here. Kurtis- "The only wires that you need to connect are the ones outlined in the instructions that are not going to the ECU like turn signals, high beams, and fuel level"
8.Hooking up the Alky pump. Huge thanks to Steve V, and Bob B on this one, and here is Steve's video on his install-
This is an important one if you want to set up safeties. you will need, 1-a solid state relay for PWM(pulse width modulation- on/off really fast) and this and it should be powered by a switched source. I used the back of the Fuel pump relay on the fender (which was upgraded by new relays). The SSR will use power from the Alt/battery. I relocated a remote positive post to just beside the fender relays, it is an easier access to a positive feed for accessories. I run my hotwires, fans, pumps off of this post. 8ga. wire runs from the Alt to the post and then to the battery. The PWM switch wire is ran to Pin D4 on the ECU, grounded on the fender beside the battery. Make sure you Fuse all power leads.
Steve V- "
I would put the pump completely upside down. Not sideways. The little bare wire get abandoned. The white wires are doing nothing either.
The transducer should be isolated from the main feed with a T orifice to control pulsation. Later I also learn of a device that can take that to another level called a 'Snubber'. It usually goes between gauges and source of pulsation to calm it to a readable level. Thanks Bob and Steve. find that here in 1/8pipe -https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-8-27-npt-diesel-fuel-pressure-snubber-valve/
9.If you are going to use these products you can now build safety into the system. Add transducers to read Fuel pressure, transmission pressure, alky pump pressure. Temp sensors for Manifold temp, Oil temp, Transmission temp, Ambient air temp, etc, etc.
OK.. I gotta go to work more later. Hope this helps so far!!
So anyone who has a better understand or can word something better than I do here PLEASE speak up and contribute . Thanks in advance!
Also this is in progress at the time of this write up. #project84foria
We all want to modernize our cars for various reasons, the hunt for power, reliability, cool factor, so many reasons for each of us. I personally wanted all of those plus safety for my car to protect it should a pump fail or loss of oil pressure or any of those things that can happen and destroy your investment. The cost of setting this up is not cheap but it IS the best insurance you can get for an old car that you dumped a lot of money into to get that extra fun factor.
All of the documentation you need is available for reference from either Caspers.com, Turbotweaksupport.com, DD-efi.com, or on any of their pages on Facebook. I also started a thread on Turbotweaksupport under the title 'ECUGN Integration and hard wiring' specifically for the ECUGN. NOW.. humor me this is the first time I have done anything like this so some thing may seem rudimentary to some of you which should just make it seem cooler that it is so easy for those of you. For the rest of us dumb asses, that is why I'm doing this. I wanted to do something similar but with respect to Eric and his focus, I figured it was better to do the write up of the Dash integration here.
First you will need the DD-efi dash, and the ECU-gn. Then you need to read a bit. Caspers has lots of stuff to learn at Index of / there you will find all of Caspers diagrams and installation help.
DD-efi has it here- https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0204/7121/8240/files/Pro_Dash_Quickstart_Guide.pdf?v=1692835645
Caspers has it here- Analog dash cluster pin out- https://installationinstructions.com/103071.pdf
Turbotweaksupport has a lot here- ecu-GN Frequently Asked Questions
This is the link to my thread on Turbotweakforum- ECUGN Integration and hard wiring
From these links you have more or less all of the information you require unless you are like me..
I needed the cereal box decoder to understand some things and thanks to names mentioned above I learned some stuff, so here it is..
*some things to remember- DISCONNECT the battery, Fuse all power leads, Check your grounds, test your relays, MAKE SURE you are connecting to the ECM properly, leave a 'little' extra on your wire connections, take your time.
1-Digital inputs are for things like indicators or lights, or turn signals. Kurtis-"You can use any of the Digital Inputs as a trigger for an indicator on your dashboard"
2-Analog inputs are for things like Sensors, ie: oil pressure, water temperature, etc.
3-On the Instrument cluster Pinout diagram ie: Pin 1 (pnk/blk) Battery Voltage = 12v IGN (switched source) power source that turns on with the key.
SO, you can connect the DD-efi 12v Ignition (yellow) here.
3a-Pin 10 Battery Voltage (gry) is for the dimmer and does not like LED's.
4-I really wanted a clean ground because as you probably have figured out by now and as all the experienced guys already figured out grounding is a nightmare for these things and most people don't understand how important this is. I ran a ground wire straight to the battery. I got a ground post kit from Caspers to ensure all my grounds were 100%. The kit comes with a strap for the engine to firewall and four leads. I ran #1 lead to the battery, #2 lead to the driver fender, #3 lead to the dash, #4 lead to the ecm.
5.USE RELAYS for your high current devices, ie: Pumps, Fans, etc. you can run the 'switch" wires directly to the ecm or dash.
6.Learn what the different output and inputs are on the ECU and the DASH. For example, I have the ALKY Control replacement tank on the fender and wasn't sure how to get the 'low fluid' to appear on the dash (as far as hard wiring goes). I did not understand how the low fluid switch worked. I thought I did but I was corrected and glad somebody (Eric) told me. I originally was going to send voltage to the switch through the brown lead and ground it on the fender..duh. After learning that was not going to work and a conversation with Kurtis I removed (from fender) and extended the ground wire (blk) to the 5vREF, and connected the ground lead to a digital input on the DDash. So now when the tank is low the circuit will close and the dash can see the closed circuit and show a 'low level' light.
7.You don't need to connect everything. the Dash connects to the ECU-gn via a CAN-H & CAN-L signal. They will chat faster than a couple of school girls..no lag at all.
So no need for any redundancy here. Kurtis- "The only wires that you need to connect are the ones outlined in the instructions that are not going to the ECU like turn signals, high beams, and fuel level"
8.Hooking up the Alky pump. Huge thanks to Steve V, and Bob B on this one, and here is Steve's video on his install-
Steve V- "
I would put the pump completely upside down. Not sideways. The little bare wire get abandoned. The white wires are doing nothing either.
The transducer should be isolated from the main feed with a T orifice to control pulsation. Later I also learn of a device that can take that to another level called a 'Snubber'. It usually goes between gauges and source of pulsation to calm it to a readable level. Thanks Bob and Steve. find that here in 1/8pipe -https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-8-27-npt-diesel-fuel-pressure-snubber-valve/
9.If you are going to use these products you can now build safety into the system. Add transducers to read Fuel pressure, transmission pressure, alky pump pressure. Temp sensors for Manifold temp, Oil temp, Transmission temp, Ambient air temp, etc, etc.
OK.. I gotta go to work more later. Hope this helps so far!!
