Disabling wideband on 6.1 chip

T

tford

Registered Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2004
How do I do it. Directions say set parameters 1,2,&3 to 9.9 or lower. With blm set on 140, it is +9.7 in fueling. I think I'm missing something. 9.9 what?
 
In the adjustable parameters blocks 1-8, set blocks 1-3 to 099 or less, 097 is as low as it will go as I understand.
The remaining blocks will run as you have them set, so be sure they are safe for WOT use.

I don't recall if the power logger accepts the (0) in 097 or if it was just 97? It's been a few years since I used the setting.
 
Last edited:
Ok. Hopefully I didn't hurt the engine with 8% more fuel. Wasn't 100% clear in directions. Thanks for the help. Should run way better now.
 
if the wideband was adding 8% fuel doesn't that mean the actual a/f was too lean, so the chip was adding fuel to maintain the target a/f?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I can't get those parameters that low on the scanmaster. They only go down to 102. Will I need to enter 097 with the powerlogger? I manually changed parameter 1,2, & 3 to 140 which adds 8 % more fuel. This is more complicated than I thought. Might go back to a 5.7 chip if I can't get this squared away.
 
before you turn off the wideband I suggest rereading the instructions and then calling Eric. I don't have any experience with a turbo tweak chip, I do however have xfi and i can see my actual a/f, target a/f, and o2 correction (wideband correction). if my o2 correction was +8% then that means the actual a/f was leaner than the target a/f, and the o2 sensor caught it and corrected it as much as possible by adding 8% fuel. if you turned off the wideband correction you could be harming your engine by letting it run leaner than the target a/f. maybe I'm completely wrong since I don't have a TT chip but that is my understanding of wideband/o2 correction on our cars. hopefully someone with more knowledge/experience can chime in to back me up or prove otherwise

http://www.turbotweak.com/turbotweakinstructions61.pdf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The Granny said:
before you turn off the wideband I suggest rereading the instructions and then calling Eric. I don't have any experience with a turbo tweak chip, I do however have xfi and i can see my actual a/f, target a/f, and o2 correction (wideband correction). if my o2 correction was +8% then that means the actual a/f was leaner than the target a/f, and the o2 sensor caught it and corrected it as much as possible by adding 8% fuel. if you turned off the wideband correction you could be harming your engine by letting it run leaner than the target a/f. maybe I'm completely wrong since I don't have a TT chip but that is my understanding of wideband/o2 correction on our cars. hopefully someone with more knowledge/experience can chime in to back me up or prove otherwise

http://www.turbotweak.com/turbotweakinstructions61.pdf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You are correct in the operation of the wideband correction. I would set blocks 4-8 back to 128 and keep the wide band connected until you get the feel for how it operates. Eric always has a safe base tune at 128 usually a little rich but you don't want make adjustments until you are at normal operating temp and weather conditions!

I just keep my car within 5% correction at normal weather and altitude.

I watch the WBO2 to hit the selected AF ratio 10.8-10.9 and then see if the correction is within 5% or less. Every day can be a little different so don't try to be exact you will be chasing your tail! Lol

You can start with blocks 1-3 set to 108 for 10.8 AFR, the rest at 128 and make a WOT in 3rd and see where AFR and fuel BLM is running. Once you understand 3rd gear fueling you can if necessary work with 1&2 but they do swing rich and lean more because the time in gear is short and shifts cause an AF swing.

Keep the adjustments small until you understand the system.
 
Last edited:
Sorry I only use the power logger for tuning the 6.1. It's much easier if you can log a run and then play it back to make adjustments.
 
tford said:
I can't get those parameters that low on the scanmaster. They only go down to 102. Will I need to enter 097 with the powerlogger? I manually changed parameter 1,2, & 3 to 140 which adds 8 % more fuel. This is more complicated than I thought. Might go back to a 5.7 chip if I can't get this squared away.
Click to expand...

Oops you are confusing blocks 1-3 that are target AFR with the BLM fuel and spark settings!
140 is 14-1 AFR target AF ratio! Set them to 108 for 10.8 AFR. This is only for WOT correction by the WBO2.

Hope you were not at WOT with those settings?
 
Not even close to WOT. Ok, I understand now. The numbers in parameters 1-3 represent the actual AFR without the decimal so for example, 11.3 afr would be 113 in the blm screen on the scanmaster. It defaults to 128 so that would be 12.8 AFR right? This chip may be a little to advanced for me. I'm just getting this new engine going and it still has break in oil in it. Would it be wise for me to change the oil and plugs and put in some fresh break in oil? Thanks for the help guys.
 
Parameters 1-3 adjust the target A/F ratio and can be adjusted by you if needed. I'm not sure if Eric presets those to values based on your motor combo/goals but if he didn't you can set them to the values he recommended in the Tuning section of the instructions. Parameters 1-3 don't look like they have a default value, I think you may be confusing them with the other 5 parameters. 113 does translate to a 11.3 target a/f in parameters 1-3. Don't be too afraid of the chip, its a good one. Wideband correction is a very useful tool since it keeps the fueling as precise as possible. It'll take some time reading through the instructions over and over again, searching on the forums in the chip/scantool sections, and making a couple phone calls to the guy who designed the chip until you get a full understanding of how it works and how you can use it to your advantage. I would call your engine builder and see what he recommends, me personally I changed my break in oil for VR1 around 500 miles. Still has the same plugs in though. Haven't gone WOT yet but before I do I'll put new plugs.
 
I'm not supposed to change the oil for 500 miles but it is running really rich. I haven't driven it more than 10 miles though. I don't want to run it 500 miles breaking it in with "gassed" oil.
 
Call your engine builder and see what he recommends doing for the break in process and when to change oil/plugs. It could be running rich because of your settings in parameters 1-3, what are they set at right now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
No, 128 is not the default for parameters 1 through 3 on a 6.1 chip. Make sure you are looking at the right boxes (see instructions). The default is an AFR of 10.8 (which will show at 108) for param 1 and 2, 3 is 99.
 
Your ok, Eric does tend to set the base rich from my experience. I wouldn't worry about the oil unless it has changed color drastically, most cars are rich on the first miles. If it's blowing black all the time it's way to rich!
If it makes you feel more safe change it but be sure to add the zinc if it's not a roller cam?
 
Yes, block 3 default is 99 per Eric. I have mine set at 108 because my boost is in mid range a lot and it spools quick so I feel safer with AFR in that range averting any lean condition. A stock running motor is fine at 99.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
Open loop vs Closed loop AFR
Replies
3
Views
600
Haynesie
H
J
Showing some love to the GN - Time for updates - Looking for Advice
Replies
19
Views
2K
JadeMonkeyStang
J
C
Feedback on powerlogger file
5 6 7
Replies
123
Views
8K
Pronto
Pronto
SteveZ82
Chasing KR still
2 3
Replies
54
Views
5K
SteveZ82
SteveZ82
B
Torque converter "unlocks" on its own, at highway speeds on cooler days. East coast.
Replies
2
Views
697
Mr.Spool
M
Top