Engine rebuild tools, suggestions please.

[Pablo]

I've never built up a shortblock before and now I am looking at doing so.

Just wondering what tools aside from regular hand tools I should get.

I've come up with a little list for myself, tell me if this sounds right to you:

Outside micrometer
dial bore gauge
feeler gauges
dial calipers
dial indicator

do I need a dial depth gauge for anything? only thing I can think of is to measure piston tdc to deck distance.

Any suggestions on who to get these from? I've always worked with Starrett stuff at my job (aviation) and it seems like the best of the best. But I don't want to spend more than I have to. I just need it to be accurate, and be able to do an engine every few years.

 

[Instro84]

i'd , add, ring compressor, ring filer, pushrod length checker, good set of torque wrenches. starret is a good brand for the measuring stuff thats what we used in the AF and at NG where i work. calibrations on their stuff is pretty deadon.

 

[challengermike]

Valve spring compressor.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I am a little surprised that you haven't had more responses.

For engine building you can never have too many precision tools. Best place to start is with the ones that are less expensive and will be used the most. A 6" or 8" dial vernier is in-dispensable. It can be used for valve spring height, rod length, piston compression height and a host of other measurements.

A dial indicator can be used for crank end play, crank run-out, cam-timing, piston TDC check, balancer timing mark checks, etc. For general use look for one that has a multiple tenths throw.

Feeler gauges are always a good idea. Piston clearance, rod side clearance, etc. They just come in handy. And inexpensive enough that if used for valve lashing they don't cost much to replace.

A degree wheel can be had from a cad program (print it out and glue to cardboard).

When it comes to bore gauges, now these can get pricey. If someone else is doing the bore/hone, only need to check that it is in the ball park. Feeler gauges can be used for this (between piston skirt and bore). Feeler gauges also used for ring end gap checks.

For crank journals, the dial vernier can give a ball park figure. Same for bearing ID's. This is to just double check the machine work. If doing the machine work then a 3-point bore gauge should be on the list. Along with outside micrometers for the crank journals.

Then we get into 12" dial verniers for checking the cam to deck locations. Along with main bore to deck height.

Rod bolt stretch gauge and a couple of torque wrenches.

Don't be afraid of acquiring older used pieces. You may find some bargains.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Reggie West]

Plasti-gauge

 

[Pablo]

Wow guys, I was getting worried there. This post didn't get any responses so I stopped checking up on it.
Thanks for the responses, I can't believe I forgot to think of some of the stuff. I mean, ring compressor.. duh- I had a brain fart there.

Remove before flight, I'll be having someone else do the machining. I have just heard to always check what they do. Since I haven't spun any bearings and I have good oil pressure I was expecting to just swap out main bearings, measure total clearance, and be good. Should I have a bore gauge to ensure roundness of the bores before I do?

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Remove before flight, I'll be having someone else do the machining. I have just heard to always check what they do. Since I haven't spun any bearings and I have good oil pressure I was expecting to just swap out main bearings, measure total clearance, and be good. Should I have a bore gauge to ensure roundness of the bores before I do?

I do sanity type checks with machine work. A lot of this has to do with finding the right person to do the work. I look at it from the point of view that if they hone the bores oversize, then what? The block would then need to be taken to the next OS to correct the issue or replaced. Same if a crank is turned/polished incorrectly.

Sanity type checks are such using a feeler gauge around the piston with it in the bore. This picks up issues such as a 40-over bore/hone with a 30 over piston. Or if the piston/wall clearance should be 5-thou and is only 2-thou, or worse, 10-thou (now we have a real issue).

The other thing that can be done is to take the block elsewhere to be checked. Knowing a couple of folks in the machine shop business they are more then willing to drop a 3-point dial bore gauge into the cylinders for a measurement (sometimes I think they like showing off the measuring equipment ). I never ask to borrow the tools, I always take the parts to them.

For fitting up rod & main bearings with tight clearances, an outside mic and an inside mic are required. A dial bore gauge can be used, but pricey. If only an engine or two a year, then the additional time using an inside mic isn't much of an issue.

You had asked about a depth micrometer. I rarely use one.

Some needle files also come in handy. A few flat and a round needle file. These can be used to break edges, file a ring (end-gap), and other stuff.

For manufactuers, Starrett (obvious) makes good stuff. Brown & Sharpe is good. A few years ago I purchased a TecLok dial indicator. This is a recent (a few years back) Japanese company. Good price and am happy with it. MSC carries a lot of decent tools at good prices. A co-worker nearing retirement is also a source. Or someone that is upgrading what they have.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Pablo]

RemoveBeforeFlight,

Thank you for your posts, they have been quite informative.

 

[charlief1]

As far as the brand, Brown&sharp, Mitutoyu, Starrett. All are good brands. If you get some of the cheaper stuff you might find out it isn't calibrated right. I've used some of the cheaper stuff before but it soesn't always stay true. Check out some of the circle track mags. Sometimes they have advertisements in them for decent tools.