Engine rebuild

Tferst

New Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2023
Let’s start off with saying hello I’m new to the turbo Buick world I recently bought an 87 t type with some mild work already done. It’s got a terry Huston down pipe and a 3” exhaust Its got old school 42lb injectors with an old chip unknown now the bad I bought the car needed a rebuild main bearings are worn bad and the guy said the pistons are not original and already .30 over block but the current block don’t knock or skip a beat, so I found locally a 109 block line honed and bored .30 over I’m planning on building that. My question is I’m making a street car nothing insane I want a cruiser is all maybe goto track when friends go that’s about it. Is there certain brands of parts to stay away from? I’m looking at complete rotating assy with forged crank arp head studs swap over the old iron heads and either swap old cam (stock?) or very mild cam into the new block I got?? I always wanted one of these cars now I finally got one and I’m lost in unfamiliar territory I use to build and race Hondas lol but I’m 40 now and wanted something from my childhood

Thank you for any input
 

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I’m looking at complete rotating assy with forged crank arp head studs swap over the old iron heads and either swap old cam (stock?) or very mild cam into the new block I got??
My $.02:
** A stroker assy isn't much more money.
** A roller cam is a "for sure" item.
** A block already bored may have been honed to a particular set of pistons. Be careful when you buy new ones.
** That turbo needs to go. Considerable HP left on the table with the one that's there, now.
** Turbo Tweak chip and injectors.
** Heads gone thru and cleaned up.
** Alky Control alky system to allow for some boost "improvements".
Then, once you've added a 150-200 HP it's converter and transmission time.

Depending on how well you do with this project, your previous "ricer life" may be excused! ;)
Welcome to the dark side!
 
My $.02:
** A stroker assy isn't much more money.
** A roller cam is a "for sure" item.
** A block already bored may have been honed to a particular set of pistons. Be careful when you buy new ones.
** That turbo needs to go. Considerable HP left on the table with the one that's there, now.
** Turbo Tweak chip and injectors.
** Heads gone thru and cleaned up.
** Alky Control alky system to allow for some boost "improvements".
Then, once you've added a 150-200 HP it's converter and transmission time.

Depending on how well you do with this project, your previous "ricer life" may be excused! ;)
Welcome to the dark side!
What’s wrong with the turbo? It’s got a rebuilt trans to some extent I have no idea ricer life is long gone but I know it’s not much but I daily drove a 500hp civic for awhile huge turbo with ac still they really were not rice rockets but rockets and I’m looking forward to the turbo Buick chapter
 
so, I'm guessing the engine is apart? if not, how do you know the main bearings are worn? what do the rod bearings look like?
nothing wrong with a new rotating assembly but the stock stuff is usually good stuff if it is in spec.
measure up the bores and see where you are.
lots of info on this site and others.
find a good machine shop who can follow directions or has Buick experience. if not you will get to try it again.
 
so, I'm guessing the engine is apart? if not, how do you know the main bearings are worn? what do the rod bearings look like?
nothing wrong with a new rotating assembly but the stock stuff is usually good stuff if it is in spec.
measure up the bores and see where you are.
lots of info on this site and others.
find a good machine shop who can follow directions or has Buick experience. if not you will get to try it again.
Just bought the car guy said it needs a rebuild that’s the main cap he told me I haven’t investigated myself but she’s got no noises and runs decent engine is still turn key runner
 

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Just bought the car guy said it needs a rebuild that’s the main cap he told me I haven’t investigated myself but she’s got no noises and runs decent engine is still turn key runner
So, he gives you a main cap picture, supposedly from that engine?
That engine has been hammered to submission with detonation, poor oil flow, and who knows what else. U R correct.....Time for a rebuild.
I'm totally surprised it's not making noise.
As for the turbo... You want a "street car" to play with, doing a forged rebuild, and using that turbo.
 
Just bought the car guy said it needs a rebuild that’s the main cap he told me I haven’t investigated myself but she’s got no noises and runs decent engine is still turn key runner
so, the main looks like that and he just put it back together again? I'm not a fix what ain't broke kinda guy. not that the pic needs attention but you don't know what this used car salesman sold you until you take it apart. and I ain't a take apart a good running engine kinda guy either.
if it were mine I'd start collecting parts to do what you want and keep driving what you have and get familiar with what it takes to assemble a Buick engine that stays together. there are plenty of sob stories of the guy who took theirs to the local race builder and had to keep writing checks as it never seemed to work out no matter how many excuses they builder used. chebby does not equal Buick.
 
Do you have a machine shop in mind?
Documentation is important to me. I won’t use a shop that doesn’t provide documentation.
For parts check out full throttle speed they can help you make a plan too.
 
No way I would use any of that current motor. It's a complete rebuild for sure.

If you have not built one of these motors before go to someone who has.
 
So, he gives you a main cap picture, supposedly from that engine?
That engine has been hammered to submission with detonation, poor oil flow, and who knows what else. U R correct.....Time for a rebuild.
I'm totally surprised it's not making noise.
As for the turbo... You want a "street car" to play with, doing a forged rebuild, and using that turbo.
So I picked up a bare machined block that’s line honed and .30 over with torque plate I been towing the car around just checked oil pressure 25 psi idle fully warmed up 50 cold I was gonna drive it till parts came in but unloading from trailer and rusted brake line said fix me first and leaked fluid pulling off the trailer so gotta address the old broken brake line first ordered all new stainless set
 
Philadelphia pa just outside of the city
Sorry, I'm a west coast guy.

I don't know any builders in the north east to recommend you to talk to.

If you don't know LC2's, you should really get some professional advice.

Someone will chime in, though.
 
@Tferst There's a good group of TR folks in and around your area. Check the Mid -Atlantic Grand National Association fort in this board for POCs and info.
 
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