G body parts upper control arms

To use them the way they were meant to be used,they need taller upper and lower joints or taller uppers or taller spindles. If you use just a 1" taller upper,because you don't want your car to sit lower,you'll move the camber curve toward negative but won't help bump steer. There is another way to fix bump steer.
If you drag race this car and leave hard enough to put the ball joints in the situation I described earlier,what will happen?
If you go fast enough over a hill on the road/what will happen?


Well that stinks. I saw nowhere on the item description about having to use taller ball joints. Or is this just common knowledge? Does correcting the Bump steer make a huge difference? Thanks for the info!
 
Well that stinks. I saw nowhere on the item description about having to use taller ball joints.!
I don't think I've ever heard from anyone in this community about their disappointment in the fact that theses control arms don't have bump stops.I have seen people write that you can just let the control arms hit the frame and that it is a perfectly acceptable method to limit the travel of these arms. I mounted one of these arms on my car without springs and the ball joint went into a bind well before the control arms could hit the frame. You ask why about the application of these arms. I can't,for the life of me,give you a good answer.

Or is this just common knowledge? !
I don't know why the terms common knowledge and common sense exist. I find neither one to be very common.

Does correcting the Bump steer make a huge difference?
I don't know if you could call it a big difference,but bump steer is not a good thing. It causes the car to move left and right as the suspension moves up and down and it causes the tires to move in the opposite direction of the turn you are trying to make which necessitates more movement of the steering wheel than would otherwise be necessary. You can completely get rid of it with this,but the spherical rod end will get sloppy relatively quick compered to the factory style outer tie rod.

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1978-1987...ering/Bump-Steer-Kit-1978-1987-GM-G-Body.html

Using a taller lower ball joint gets rid of most of the bump steer,not all and it lowers the ride height 1/2"
 
Whenever you negotiate any turn with your car,because of the geometry of the front suspension on G bodies,your suspension moves the tires into a position that hinders the turn you are trying to make. If you do the modification I've described,your suspension will move the tires into a position that helps the car turn. This means you can get away with less spring and less sway bar and still have a car that can level out a corner pretty well. When your suspension fights the turn you are trying to make,it does it when the control arms move during the turn. To stop the crappy suspension geometry from hindering your turn,you need to hinder the apward and downward movement of the control arms. This is typically accomplished buy using stronger springs and sway bar. This leads to a more harsh ride. If you like the ride comfort of your car currently, it will still ride the same after the modifications I've described but will turn better with less steering input.

If you have the factory style outer tie rods and the factory spindles,you have bump steer.

The suspension is designed in a fashion that purposely hinders any turn you try to make so that you are less likely to cause the car to spin out. The engineers purposely put the suspension geometry into a position that moves it away from working OK.

Not spinning out is a bad thing? I missed something.
 
Not spinning out is a bad thing? I missed something.
If you have a car that won't turn,it will plow forward and go off the road front first. If you have a car that does turn well,it has more of a chance of spinning out in a turn and leaving the road ass first. If you think having a car that will turn is more dangerous,don't buy any car manufactured after 1990 just to be safe.
 
If you have a car that won't turn,it will plow forward and go off the road front first. If you have a car that does turn well,it has more of a chance of spinning out in a turn and leaving the road ass first. If you think having a car that will turn is more dangerous,don't buy any car manufactured after 1990 just to be safe.

Huh? I'm missing something. From your statement you're saying that BOTH understeer and oversteer are bad. 99.9% of passenger cars on the road in the U.S. today are built specifically to understeer, which is what you were saying our cars did originally, and that we should change it. This is why I'm confused. Me personally I like a neutral or slight oversteer set up in my daily driver; I like thicker sway bars in that car. In my Buick when I touch something, ANYTHING, it throws 32 other things off, and makes my list of "things to do" even longer, which gets me in deeper trouble with the wife lol. My car's in good condition, but nonetheless shit happens - especially in areas I'm not set up to tackle. I can do most chores on a car, but I don't have a lift or a good air compressor right now, NOR the time to do it even if I did. Which is why I don't screw with stuff on the car right now. I only change around or replace things that are compartmented and don't affect other components or dynamics. I sometimes need a drop in fit with no other modifications needed.
 
Pretty much all cars today have independent front and rear suspensions with struts. They don't under steer.
Until you change the angle of your upper control arms to a situation where they travel uphill from the frame to the tires,you'll always have built in under steer. Whatever you do to your suspension to make the car turn better,it will turn even better if you change the angle of your upper control arms.
 
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