How to? Vacuum brake Conversion

theres only one gasket for the vac block .. you can get a gasket frompete hoffman or there should be one with the vac block like the billet from kirban

where ... every one wants the easy button ... i vary the location depending on the plenum (stock /pte /accufab - KB / hemco/ champ race ) and if it also needs other ports like IAT (for speed density ) or vac ports for map sensors ...pick a spot that will accept the fitting and not interfere with bolts that hold the coil pack bracket or plenum , you will need to drill and tap for the fitting you get which should be atleast a 1/4 npt fitting to 3/8 hose barb ..like this http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/16032/10002/-1?parentProductId=763082
 
heres on a stock plenum , its a straight fitting you can get from HD or lowes cheap , its what they sell for air compressor hose


1110150958.jpg
 
pacecarta said:
could even be teed into the pcv line but will have a little less vacuum.
Click to expand...

I did this because I wanted the hose more hidden. I did mine in '96 or so and have had no problems.
image.jpeg


I took a little time and sanded and polished the master cylinder as well.
Yes, always bench bleed the M/C as the pedal doesn't push the plunger to the end of the stroke and air stays in the end of the M/C and makes for spongy brakes.
 
Got the parts yesterday and they look great. But the aluminum block that came with it has three ports on each side for a total of six. The stock block had 5 or 6 ports on the pass side, how do I use the new block? Or should I just get the proper conversion block that has the extra port on the driver side for the booster? Assuming I don't drill and tap a new port, which isn't out of the question yet.
 
1986 Buick GX1 said:
I took a little time and sanded and polished the master cylinder as well.
Yes, always bench bleed the M/C as the pedal doesn't push the plunger to the end of the stroke and air stays in the end of the M/C and makes for spongy brakes.
Click to expand...

MC looks pretty snazzy all polished up. As far as the mc bleeding I usually have one of the kids helping so I slip a 2x4 under the the pedal so they cant over stroke the mc. I usually bleed on the car before I hook up the lines. Just have to make sure all the bubbles come out even those itty bitty ones. Keep stroking until there are NONE. Same as on the bench.

Also wanted to point out that if you haven't changed the fluid in a while I would recommend doing so. Mine sadly was from way back and was pretty black. I bled each wheel until I was getting new looking fluid out. I recommend you do the same if you don't know when it was last changed out. I went hydro boost but the bleed and such is pretty much the same. If that port and the need for a different pedal weren't such obstacles I would have probably done vac too. Remember keep bleeding, it will be worth the hassle.
 
Tonyrodz said:
I'm looking to convert the pm setup to vacuum. Once I get everything I need to do it, what's involved and how hard is it to do? Is it a one person job? I'm a backyard diy'er, or like to think I am! Lol
Thx for any and all input.
Click to expand...
I just converted my 87 T-type a few months a go, and I am super happy. Make sure you do your home work, and if you have everything ready to go, it should take about 4 - 6 hours for the standard back yard mechanic. Too, I used my original break pedal, and I spliced the vacuum on the left front of the vehicle (bypassing the need for a vacuum block). I bench bled the MBC well and did not have to bleed the breaks after conversion. Also, I went with a Chev Caprice vacuum setup that works fantastic; got it at Car Quest. The tuff part of the conversion is getting under the dash and working with the seat in. If you have any back problems at all, I would suggest taking out the seat first. Good luck!
 
TurboMikey said:
I just converted my 87 T-type a few months a go, and I am super happy. Make sure you do your home work, and if you have everything ready to go, it should take about 4 - 6 hours for the standard back yard mechanic. Too, I used my original break pedal, and I spliced the vacuum on the left front of the vehicle (bypassing the need for a vacuum block). I bench bled the MBC well and did not have to bleed the breaks after conversion. Also, I went with a Chev Caprice vacuum setup that works fantastic; got it at Car Quest. The tuff part of the conversion is getting under the dash and working with the seat in. If you have any back problems at all, I would suggest taking out the seat first. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Do you have a pic of your setup, along with how you did your vacuum for the brakes? Thx
 
I just recently bought a 87 GN and it had the vac-conversion..It has a block on top that has the port..I'm getting the intake ported and polished and the tech said he will go ahead and tap and install a port under the intake runners.Someone pm me if they have a mint condition stock block for sale and does anyone want to buy my Kirban vac block?Thanks
 
you dont need to tap a port under the runners.. not even sure how or why someone would say under the runner unless they dont have a clue about the buick intake
, back of intake is fine , its out of sight under the coilpack
 
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