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Intake manifold gasket install

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87gninpa

Active Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2003
Messages
2,414
Installing the intake gasket sunday and have a few ?'s. first, should i use the rubber strips or not. ive heard botth sides of the argument, but no real clear answer. also, what MUST be taken off to do this? i want to take apart as little as possible. the buick manual isnt too specific on this. any help appreciated
 
All I can tell you is that I did NOT use the rubber strips and I'll be doing the job again soon. Lots of oil leaking down the back of the motor. If done right, a combination of the rubber strips and dabs of sealant on the corners should work fine.

Jim
 
I've never had any luck with those strips. Lots of Right Stuff (or comparable silicone) and carefully sitting the intake on. Snug the bolts, and then many hours later torque them.

Things that must come off:
0. Remove ground from battery
1. Drain coolant from radiator
2. Disconnect 3 cables to the throttle body. Take out the two ~7mm bolts out of the top of the plenum that hold the cable plate in place. Now remove the bolt from the lower part of the plenum that holds the plate there. Move the cable assembly out of your way.
3. Remove the bolt + 2 nuts that hold the coil pack in place. Also remove the 1/4" bolt that holes the wiring on the ignition module.
4. Unplug injector harness, and remove grounds if they're on one of your intake bolts. Also remove coolant temp sensor plugs. And also the EGR module.
5. Disconnect heater hoses from heater core.
6. Disconnect upper radiator hose from intake. Same with the 2 S hoses (one by the turbo, one by the radiator hose).
7. Disconnect vacuum line next to the fuel pressure regulator (I think it's for the charcoal canister). Also, there is another line here that goes to the EGR, and T's off to other things, disconnect it from anything that's not part of the intake.
8. Using a 9/16 swivel (or a 9/16 socket on a swivel) + 6" (or more) extension remove the 8 bolts holding the intake. Some, like the one behind the EGR valve are tricky, but you can get it. Put as little pitch on the swivel as possible.
9. Depending on the sealant previously used, firmly lift the intake off.

In other words, almost everything that's connected to the intake, can come off still on the intake. I did the instructions from memory, so I hope that I didn't miss anything.
 
If you a doing a R&R on stock heads, the rubber seals should work fine.

Your comment to "take off as little as possible" can bite you big time! Get all the stuff out of the way like Jack says.

When using the rubber strips, put a little RTV in the corners before installing the strips, and a little more in the corners after installing them. Do NOT slide the intake fore-and-aft when installing, set it straight down.
 
I know it's extra work but I always pull the pan when I do the intake...when you pull the intake a little coolant will most likely get down into the pan...that little bit will not drain out since the bung on the pan is on the inside so a little liquid always remains in the pan after draining...this is especially important if you use anti-freeze...you will kill the bearings in a short time...I'm with Nick...I have always used the rubber strips...if using the stock intake gasket I also put a thin coat of black RTV around the coolant passages and some Permatex brush tack sealant around the air passages...do this on both sides of the gasket...
 
i used the rubber strips...i actually used black rtv sealant on both sides of the rubber strips for added sealing...also did the corners really well...haven't ran my motor yet but there shouldn't be any leaks...

-Don
PTE Sales Tech
 
Originally posted by d0n_3d
i used the rubber strips...i actually used black rtv sealant on both sides of the rubber strips for added sealing...also did the corners really well...haven't ran my motor yet but there shouldn't be any leaks...-Don

Just RTV the ends, not along the strip, it can slide out.
 
thanks for all the advice guys. im starting now, ill let you know how it goes
 
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