LED on Razor kit?

2QUIK6

Turbo Milk Jug displacmnt
Joined
May 28, 2001
OK, my car has been down for about 18 months, I finally have it back but new motor has less than 100 miles on it so I can't get into the boost except to about 8-10 lbs right now....the last replacement pump I received from Julio had a new LED and some new wiring...this was about 3-4 years ago...
Seems like I remember the new LED lights up red at low pressure and then turns to green at the higher end, say about half way through the ramp???? Am I remembering correctly..that's how long it been since I've driven this thing! Since I can't do anymore than about 8-10# all I see is red on the LED.
 
as per the Instruction sheet, if you need the full copy, just hit up julio at Alky Control.

New for OCT '05 ... the system now incorporates a pressure sending unit to indicate system has developed pressure. The Turn-on LED will change color from red to green when the pressure threshold has been developed. It is important to note that the setting for this change can be adjusted by turning the allen head screw on the pressure switch located on the pump. My suggestion is have the pressure screw set so that reaching 10-12 PSI boost activates the "pressure met" condition. Turning screw into the pump increases pressure thresho'ld, turning it outward decreases it. You may find my factory setting to be correct. This is the reason the pump is mounted with the head downward .. so access to the screw can be attained and tweaked if needed. So If the Turn-on LED doesn't cha,nge color to green when the boost starts coming up past 10-12 PSI ... Do Not Go Wide Open Throttle. LAST tid bit .. the system features a test/prime button. Its purpose is to allow testing of the system. Before going WOT after the vehicle has been Sitting for an extended time period, depress the button and confirm system i's operational. Failure to do so can lead to an air pocket trapped in lines, and a delay in getting alcohol into the motor. This delay can cause damage to your motor. So the advice is.. always test the system first time out.. its assures peace of mind.
 
The system will go red at bout 5 lbs of boost and green around 8 to 10 lbs. But like zapp240 said always hit the test button to make sure its " Armed " if you will . There is a check valve between the pump and nozzle but if it sits for a while it can bleed back . When I start my car and it warms up some I will hit the test button and wait for a split second for the car to stumble . If it goes red and not green during WOT you do have an issue , could be the pump , bad ground or a controller giving you fits . I hope this help but my advise is to call Julio asap and get it figured out cause the last thing we wanna here is POP . Keith
 
Awesome, that's is what I am seeing, "red" as I am not going past 8-10 lbs yet till the motor gets a few hundred miles on it and the oil checks clean. My memory is going, I've had a lot of beers since the last time I drove this car over 18 months back :)
Thank both of you!
 
Julio sells a gauge that shows you the pressure that the pump is putting out. Takes the guesswork out of whether you need a new pump or not.
 
Everything is fine, I just can't boost enough yet due to brand new motor so all I see is red until I can boost it over 10psi..I simply could not remember if it went to green... Old setup was only red....I have a Snow setup on my truck, it's green all the time when on.
 
100 miles, some lower boost hits, it's as "broken in" as it's going to get.
Cut the filter, replace the lost oil, and it's HAMMER time!:D
 
Totally agree with Chuck. There is no break in on a roller motor.

Like mentioned Julio sells a test kit with a gauge and nozzle built into a tank cap and a 3 bar map simulator. It's a good practice to annually test the system. Alky pumps generally are only good for a couple years.
 
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