Lockup vs Non-Lockup

belsie

Active Member
Joined
May 16, 2011
What are the pros & cons on this? If going non-lockup can I say good bye to TCC and any other items? I understand I will lose some cruise comfort but enjoy other benefits. Which tends to run cooler? Is there any trans mods need to run the non lockup? Always appreciate the opinions & advice !!
 
What are the pros & cons on this? If going non-lockup can I say good bye to TCC and any other items? I understand I will lose some cruise comfort but enjoy other benefits. Which tends to run cooler? Is there any trans mods need to run the non lockup? Always appreciate the opinions & advice !!

This has been covered in the past. I suggest using the search feature to find what you are looking for.
 
What are the pros & cons on this? If going non-lockup can I say good bye to TCC and any other items? I understand I will lose some cruise comfort but enjoy other benefits. Which tends to run cooler? Is there any trans mods need to run the non lockup? Always appreciate the opinions & advice !!
If you like, give me a call and I will answer these questions. 516-285-1103
 
I read some posts here that say nothing needs to be done to trans and some that read trans modification. I'm curious also because I picked up a 2800 pro converter and I want to know if I can pop it in and go.
 
I read some posts here that say nothing needs to be done to trans and some that read trans modification. I'm curious also because I picked up a 2800 pro converter and I want to know if I can pop it in and go.

A few say the transmission does not need to be altered, most say it does, depending upon the torque converter you put in. I put in a PTC NLU and did the alteration.
Here is good link that describes the process and the part required. Hardest part is getting the check ball out of the input shaft.
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/m...n-magna/101284-converting-trans-non-lock.html
 
Run both my cars with a N/L converter, one has the NL valve and check ball removed but the other doesn't and you can't tell the difference between the 2

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
I do not know a lot about transmissions, but when removing the electrical connector from the trans, the lock-up function is disabled?

I do know my original 1987 low-milage T has a non-lock converter which was installed after 4k miles in April, 1987, and one difference is at 65-70 mph which showed about 100 RPM additional, and the other difference is low-end response is greatly improved!
 
What are the pros & cons on this? If going non-lockup can I say good bye to TCC and any other items? I understand I will lose some cruise comfort but enjoy other benefits. Which tends to run cooler? Is there any trans mods need to run the non lockup? Always appreciate the opinions & advice !!

I will compare my 3021 series converters. One is NLU and other is LU, there will be very little performance differences. The NLU is slightly lighter and fluid has an easier path thru the converter. My NLU runs on 3 bearings which makes it stronger and is better for use with a transbrake. It can be slightly more efficient over a LU. The disadvantage is the NLU creates heat all the time and will run a little more RPM at cruise and light acceleration. The lock-up has advantages especially if the car is highway driven, fuel economy is better and the converter creates no heat in lock-up allowing the longevity of a 200-4R. Both converters drive excellent and you wouldn't know the difference till cruise speed

When discussing higher end converters, they are non lockup for strength. There is not enough room to have the lockup clutch with a performance stator. I have been working on a new converter and stator design for six+ months now that will be lock-up, 3 bearing design and will perform like many of the higher end converters. The market has been asking for this option.

To run a NLU, a NLU valve needs to be installed in the transmission as well as removing the checkball in the input shaft. What this kit does is direct the fluid correctly thru the pump to the converter and then out to the cooler. A lock-up converter has the fluid enter in reverse of apply to lift off the lock-up clutch and then charge the converter. When lock-up is engaged, the fluid direction is reversed and fluid is pushed against the lock-up to force the clutch on with no fluid exit. The extra oil is diverted in the pump to the cooling system. Returning oil from the cooler is the oil that lubes the transmission.

Using either is a preference to a point. Many customers prefer the NLU when in the mid 10's and faster. When using an aftermarket computer, many like to use the NLU. This information reflects my converter designs, 3021, 3521 3017, 3018 and pro billet 9" diode converters, ect. Again, any questions feel free to contact me.
 
Last edited:
I will compare my 3021 series converters. One is NLU and other is LU, there will be very little performance differences. The NLU is slightly lighter and fluid has an easier path thru the converter. My NLU runs on 3 bearings which makes it stronger and is better for use with a transbrake. It can be slightly more efficient over a LU. The disadvantage is the NLU creates heat all the time and will run a little more RPM at cruise and light acceleration. The lock-up has advantages especially if the car is highway driven, fuel economy is better and the converter creates no heat in lock-up allowing the longevity of a 200-4R. Both converters drive excellent and you wouldn't know the difference till cruise speed

When discussing higher end converters, they are non lockup for strength. There is not enough room to have the lockup clutch with a performance stator. I have been working on a new converter and stator design for six+ months now that will be lock-up, 3 bearing design and will perform like many of the higher end converters. The market has been asking for this option.

To run a NLU, a NLU valve needs to be installed in the transmission as well as removing the checkball in the input shaft. What this kit does is direct the fluid correctly thru the pump to the converter and then out to the cooler. A lock-up converter has the fluid enter in reverse of apply to lift off the lock-up clutch and then charge the converter. When lock-up is engaged, the fluid direction is reversed and fluid is pushed against the lock-up to force the clutch on with no fluid exit. The extra oil is diverted in the pump to the cooling system. Returning oil from the cooler is the oil that lubes the transmission.

Using either is a preference to a point. Many customers prefer the NLU when in the mid 10's and faster. When using an aftermarket computer, many like to use the NLU. This information reflects my converter designs, 3021, 3521 3017, 3018 and pro billet 9" diode converters, ect. Again, any questions feel free to contact me.

Dave, do you have any feedback from your customers on the 3021 LU and what times they have ran in the 1/4?

VS.

Feedback on 1/4 miles times with the NLU?



Sorry for derailing the thread. Just trying to get and idea of what each is capable of.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
"I have been working on a new converter and stator design for six+ months now that will be lock-up, 3 bearing design and will perform like many of the higher end converters"

Any idea when you might have this out? I'm dropping my transmission to you probably end of Feb (we spoke), beginning of March.

Thanks.
 
Dave, do you have any feedback from your customers on the 3021 LU and what times they have ran in the 1/4?

VS.

Feedback on 1/4 miles times with the NLU?

Sorry for derailing the thread. Just trying to get and idea of what each is capable of.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 3021 LU and NLU converters are rated for a stock weight car 10.00 et and slower. I have a lock-up that has run in the 9's. I have other converters available also. Contact me for more info....
 
"I have been working on a new converter and stator design for six+ months now that will be lock-up, 3 bearing design and will perform like many of the higher end converters"

Any idea when you might have this out? I'm dropping my transmission to you probably end of Feb (we spoke), beginning of March.

Thanks.
I wanted to have a release date in March 2017, but I doubt this will happen. The stator is designed for the NLU version for now. I need to redesign the sprag so it can fit in the space a lock-up gives me. I do not have an ETA right now. I will do my best to get this to market if it is possible.
 
Top