Longer wheel studs for slicks AND GN rims

[Red Regal T]

Sorry, Jim. I didn't read your post. Was mostly addressing the original post. I must admit, I'm not familiar with wheels with a flange that is an inch and a half thick. Why is it so thick? Is it normally used on a funny car?

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by Red Regal T
Sorry, Jim. I didn't read your post. Was mostly addressing the original post. I must admit, I'm not familiar with wheels with a flange that is an inch and a half thick. Why is it so thick? Is it normally used on a funny car?

I dunno. As far as I know, they're standard Weld Draglites. They are quite old - there's a Feb '92 date stamp on them. But the lug nuts I got for them said they were for all Draglites. They're not all like that?

Jim

PS - I went to the Weld site to find out if the 1.5" thickness was normal. Didn't find out, but look who the Street/Strip wheel poster child is:
http://www.weldracing.com/StreetStrip.html

 

[MSDGN]

The GM studs are perfect for the Weld's...I use those along with the open end Weld lugs...the tip of the stud(which doesn't have threads) sticks out just enough for the Tech guy to see but not enough to look stupid...I have my ET Streets mounted on the rear ones...looks pretty mean...

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by MSDGN
The GM studs are perfect for the Weld's...I use those along with the open end Weld lugs...the tip of the stud(which doesn't have threads) sticks out just enough for the Tech guy to see but not enough to look stupid...I have my ET Streets mounted on the rear ones...looks pretty mean...

Perfect - thanks for the reply.

I bought them used with slicks mounted on them, but I like them a lot. Eventually I might by another set of 4 for street use, but in the meantime I'm going to have A LOT of stud sticking out with the stock rims on. What can you do.

Jim

 

[turbojimmy]

Okay, this is the last time I'll bring this thread back from the dead.

Got my GM studs yesterday and they are PERFECT. There will be about 1/2" of the stud protruding. The last 3/4" of the stud is not threaded, so it almost looks like the studs were made specifically for the rims. Thanks for the tips everyone.

Has anyone actually been able to install the GM ones without pulling the axles? Or are they too long? If they're too long, where can I find instructions for pulling the axles? Just yank the C-clips, right?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[John Larkin]

It's pretty easy but stinky for sure. Remove rearend cover, drain fluid. Jack up rearend, remove wheels and brake drums. Rotate axles until the carrier is positioned so you can get to the bolt holding the carrier center pin (small 10mm headed bolt). Remove bolt (it's loctite'd in so it'll take a little force to break it loose). Slide out the center pin, remove the S shaped spring; you'll have to rotate the carrier a little most likely. Then have someone push in on one of the axles a little. Take a pair of needlenose pliers and grab the C clip and remove it. Then slide axle out, watch the axle seals, be gentle. Repeat for other side. Reverse the procedure on install. Be sure to re-loctite the center pin bolt upon reinstall. It's pretty straight forward.

 

[Ormand]

10mm Bolt

Before you start, get a replacement for that little bolt that holds the differential pinion shaft. "Pinion shaft lock screw", part number 14056196. Should be less than a dollar, at any GM dealer. The little bolt is prone to break, when you start to loosen it. Then you have to fish out the broken end, which is fun. But if you don't have the spare handy, putting it back together would be even more fun!!

 

[MSDGN]

WHOA!...there's no need to remove the S shaped spring...once the carrier pin is out just push the axle towards the center and grab the C-clip with needle nose pliers and pull it off...then carefully slide the axle out of the tube...would be a good idea to replace the carrier pin also...if you've done a lot of burnouts it will be scarred...

 

[BADDGUY6]

Re: 10mm Bolt

Originally posted by Ormand
Before you start, get a replacement for that little bolt that holds the differential pinion shaft. "Pinion shaft lock screw", part number 14056196. Should be less than a dollar, at any GM dealer. The little bolt is prone to break, when you start to loosen it. Then you have to fish out the broken end, which is fun. But if you don't have the spare handy, putting it back together would be even more fun!!

Yep , My bolt was (is) broken Matco tools has a tool to remove the broken part. http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2255&page=2&#31289 Go to page 2
Waiting on the tool from Matco guy.

 

[turbojimmy]

Okay, I said I wouldn't bring this thread back but here it is.

Just wanted to thank everyone for the tips. Put the longer studs in today, went off without a hitch. Taking the axles out is scary easy. The Welds look awesome. I'm going to have to get a set for my street tires, too.

Pics of the GM studs and Draglite are here:
http://www.turbojimmy.com/gn_weld_01.jpg
http://www.turbojimmy.com/gn_weld_02.jpg

Thanks again to all,
Jim

 

[325DR]

Originally posted by turbojimmy

Got my GM studs yesterday and they are PERFECT. There will be about 1/2" of the stud protruding. The last 3/4" of the stud is not threaded, so it almost looks like the studs were made specifically for the rims.

turbojimmy-- Which GM part number did you use? What was the length? When you have the Welds on, is there any THREAD showing, or just the non-threaded part? If there is no thread showing, does it at least go to the very end of the nut? Thanks.

 

[turbojimmy]

Hey,

I used P/N 22551491. Just the non-threaded part sticks out of the Weld shoulder-type lug nuts (see the pics in my prior reply - the links should work now, the server was down all day). The thread does go to the very end of the lug nuts - you can see it on a couple of the nuts. Not sure of the length anymore, but if you put that P/N into gmpartsdirect.com it will probably tell you.

Passes NHRA tech inspection no problem.

Jim

 

[V6UnderPressure]

I know this thread is ancient old! But, I wondered if anyone would help me in selecting lugs. I have a set of moser axles with 3" studs going in and wondered what lugs to get to run my stock gn rims AND retain the center caps. Anyone have a part number?

Thanks!

Scott