My First Rebuild

Low Budget

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2002
Who can help me go 11's?

:confused: I've got my engine on a stand. I want to freshen it up and wake it up at the same time.

As my name implies, (Low Budgit) money is definately an issue. The engine has 180,000 miles on it. Still runs 13.60 on 110 race gas, but oils coming out a few places and I figure it's time to repay it for all the fun miles it has given me.

Any advice on:
-where to get parts at good prices
-personal performance recipes
-general advice on rebuilds

Specifically, do the pistons have to be replaced if they look good yet, or can new rings be installed on old ones? What parts and procedures are must do's and what can be left alone.

I have a stock turbo, stock intercooler, 3" dp, K&N cone filter, ESP 50 gph@ 50psi intank pump, billet adjustable fp reg., Hemco 62mm Plenum, 62mm Throttle Body, 2.5" cat-back Hooker System, ESP coilpack and a powder-coated steel MAF to turbo pipe. The MAF has both screens out.

I'd like to go low to mid 11's on the stock turbo and intercooler when I put this back together. I know I need new injectors and was thinking about 42.5's. This sound good?

I guess that's enough info for now. Let me know if you need more. Anyone who can advise me on any of this please do. If there's anybody out there from eastern PA who's bored and wants to take me under their wing, that would be fine too. :)
 
try summit racing for parts full rebuild with je pistons was 840 to my door. take my advice i probably just spent 3500 to 4000 on mine it,s definately cheaper to buy a used block stock or built. but as for your question about the pistons i would at least want to bore which would make the stock pistons useless
 
have it built by someone. Just finished up a rebuld myself, dropping it in tonight. The parts themselves were very reasonable but by the time you add the little stuff the grand total adds up to something scary. The money and time and aggrivation will be worth it to have someone do it. Especially if its your first rebuild of the mighty buick 231.

Dan
 
What was included for 840? What then took you the rest of the way to 3,500- $4,000? :eek: I want to avoid those parts! lol

I know this will probably be a long aggrivating process, but I just want to be able to say I did it at least once.

Does anybody know if Summit has a web site? If so do you know the address?

Thanks guys. Keep it coming!:)
 
i started out at 700 which was JE pistons + rings, crank, steel mains, rods. My goal is mid 11s on the street. Then there came the machine work......1800 later that was done (price included complete redone heads)....then there was the little stuff.....gaskets, head bolts, bearings...all around 100 a pop. Ended up around 4k give or take a few dollars. Dont rehone and ring your engine with stock pistons, theres a guy on the board that just did this and has strange blue smoke coming from his engine....thats bad :eek: Which as twin said means ur pistons are kaput. If your looking to go mid 11's with the stock turbo then your going to want to port your heads so you dont have to run some insane amount of boost to go that fast, at the very least get a performance valve job and have the valves back cut for more flow. Low budget rebuilds usually mean doing it twice, at least from what ive seen on this board. Spend the money once is what i say.

Dan
 
I agree 100%. Its cheaper to do it right once than to do it cheaply twice!

From what I've read about these engines, clearances are very very critical! It's not like a typical N/A grocery getter that you can get away with a hone, re-ring and throwing in new bearings.

Piston to wall clearance is critical. Piston slap is unacceptable with a knock sensor. Rod side clearance, main and rod bearing clearances are kept tight to insure proper oil circulation.

I would at least get a good machine shop set up the short block for you. Or buy an assembled, rebuilt short block/ long block, and save your original until you can afford to do it right.

The peace of mind alone is worth the money! Nothing worse than worrying about breakage everytime you mash the pedal:eek:

Good luck with whatever you decide:)
 
If you have never built one before I highly reccomend to let someone else do it for you. there are a few guys on this board that offer to build engines and they are extremely knowledgeable.
 
Guess I've got some thinking to do.

Thanks for all the help to date guys. Whatever I decide, rest assured, it will be done right. I don't have my own machine shop, so that will definately be farmed out. All I really want to do at home, is put together all the pieces I can, myself.

Any thoughts on cams, valve sizes and injectors? I thought I would go with 009's, but I'm seeing better print on 50#er's.
 
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