N/A Build...PICS INSIDE!

[ek02]

I have the NOS Super Power Shot system and bought the optional jets for a 175 shot. I have an Edelbrock 7PSI pump for the carb and one for the nitrous fuel solenoid. I think the 14 PSI pump would work well with a regulator to supply the whole thing, but I already had 2 pumps, so I plumbed a bulkhead fitting into the tank for the NOS fuel. I put a pressure switch in the system and the NOS kept kicking out, thus the reason for the second pump. I shift at 5800 and the engine still hits the rev limiter at 6500 by the time it shifts. The nitrous causes the engine to rev that fast. I have beehive springs and Scorpion chevy style roller rockers on the Champion heads. It will rev more, but I'm not sure it would go any faster. A 7.60 in the 1/8 converts to high 11's in the 1/4 if the charts are believable. The trap speed is 95 mph. The speedo says 100 at the 1/8 mile. The nearest 1/4 to me is 75 miles away. I need a trailer, no guts. The headers I built are the same demensions as the KB 3 into 1 design with capped outlets. I have run full length and can't tell the difference, but the old KB dyno charts say the 3 into 1's have more power. I used a 500 CFM Edelbrock carb on the 3.8 and it ran way better than a 600 Edelbrock that I rejetted to try and make it work. I put the 600 on the stroker motor and it ran perfect. I also had a Q-Jet. Good mileage and response, but the Edelbrock ran stronger. I have had Holleys on my other engines, a 390, a 500, and a 600. I like the Edelbrock.

 

[WarWagon]

Seems biased toward one N20 brand here....
If you were really interested in adding a shot of N20, since It's a NA the engine would have no problems running a dry N20 system, Running a dry N20 kit will save space and clutter while having half the plumbing and wiring of a wet kit. With a secondary rod change, the wonderful Q-jet can supply the extra fuel needed for a dry N20 kit. If you were boosted, fuel injected, or running more than 125hp N20 shot I'd recommend a wet N20 kit. Pretty much all N20 brands make a carb flange injector(if increased height is not an issue) and NOS brand has a (top shot)kit which is a wet kit that is installed inside an air cleaner base and injects through the carb instead of under it.

 

[mat231v6]

Seems biased toward one N20 brand here....
If you were really interested in adding a shot of N20, since It's a NA the engine would have no problems running a dry N20 system, Running a dry N20 kit will save space and clutter while having half the plumbing and wiring of a wet kit. With a secondary rod change, the wonderful Q-jet can supply the extra fuel needed for a dry N20 kit. If you were boosted, fuel injected, or running more than 125hp N20 shot I'd recommend a wet N20 kit. Pretty much all N20 brands make a carb flange injector(if increased height is not an issue) and NOS brand has a (top shot)kit which is a wet kit that is installed inside an air cleaner base and injects through the carb instead of under it.

holley owns NOS. holley is a good companie so NOS must be a good company. plus there stuff is everywhere and easy to find.

 

[WarWagon]

No MSD box, just straight HEI with some MSD components in the distributor. It doesnt have huge compression (approx 9.5 to 1) and I have the high torque GM mini starter so I don't necessarily need the help on starting, even when heat soaked. I agree, I can use all the help in the torque category though!

Also interested in knowing the RPM that cam starts delivering the big torque and the max/shift rpm?

 

[ek02]

Here are a few photos of my 270" stroker before I put it in my truck. I was going to use iron heads, but the wife made me buy the Champions. Said she was tired of hearing me say " I shoulda" after I finish something. I used .030 Cometic head gaskets for the 9.5 to 1 ratio. I figured I could use the .080 gaskets to drop it to 9 to 1 if I ever decided to turbo it.

 

[eastwoodad]

Also interested in knowing the RPM that cam starts delivering the big torque and the max/shift rpm?

Adam,

I had the "benefit" of a tight converter...haha. The only benefit was it let me see where the low end of the powerband was...and make sure you stayed above it! I really noticed the car pull at 2800-3000 and have been shifting at 6000. I have taken it to 6500 a couple times and is still pulling strong, but just starting to drop off. I only have stamped steel rockers with rocker arm braces, so I know I am pushing it. Also adjustable pushrods....heavy!! I am suprised it turns this high.

Aaron

 

[49-blues]

i have a nice set of headers for that with a custom true dual exhaust system that i temporarily used on my na project-pipes are like new. matt 347-680-8642-very reasonable.

 

[eastwoodad]

i have a nice set of headers for that with a custom true dual exhaust system that i temporarily used on my na project-pipes are like new. matt 347-680-8642-very reasonable.

Unless they are the Hooker Super Comp's, I think I have the same headers you have for sale. I have the Hedman's and an exhaust already.

That being said if anyone knows where I can find some Hooker Super Comp's or the old Kenne Bell 3 to 1's, I would be interested. I am not very happy with the Hedmans. They dont match the exhaust ports well at all, and the passenger side header is a disaster. Hits the frame crossmember, Lower A-arm bushing mount, upper A-arm...etc.

 

[mat231v6]

Here are a few photos of my 270" stroker before I put it in my truck. I was going to use iron heads, but the wife made me buy the Champions. Said she was tired of hearing me say " I shoulda" after I finish something. I used .030 Cometic head gaskets for the 9.5 to 1 ratio. I figured I could use the .080 gaskets to drop it to 9 to 1 if I ever decided to turbo it.

View attachment 133672

View attachment 133673

what cam did you use?

 

[ek02]

I used a Comp roller custom ground with the Kenne Bell Mk2R specs. Same lift, but they had to grind it with 2 degrees less duration because the cast cam core could not be ground with any more duration. A billet cam can be ground any way you want it, but it's a bunch more $. I used the Comp competition hydraulic roller lifters, and they are as noisy as solids. Morrel lifters would have been better, but they came out after I built it. The ramps on the cam open the valves much faster on a roller cam. I had to add a vacuum can to make the power brakes work right. The MK2R is probably the most radical cam you can use on the street with an automatic. It pulls from bottom to the top. A roller chain is a must. With 1.65 rockers the lift at the valve is .526.

 

[eastwoodad]

Pretty bummed...I was going to go to the first cruise in for the car and the electric fan wouldnt work, and it was too darn hot out to fool with it. Ended up chasing down a bad ground, which I figured it was.

I do have a pretty good setup though...I am storing the car at my dad's and he is retired. Thankfully for me he can't leave well enough alone and tinkers with it during the week. Last week, he put some front drag springs and 90/10 shocks in it. We did some calculations and though we needed to remove 1 1/2 coils from these (they were from an A-body). We weren't "wrong", but it just ended up pretty low...haha. I love it though. I just bought some 3rd gen F-body springs off ebay with isolators and we'll even the stance up. Call it what you will, but I love a slammed Regal with pro-stars. I'll get some pics up once it is done.

My dad and I are trying like crazy to get it to the track Friday...I'll post results.

Aaron

 

[charlief1]

Waiting to see how it does Aaron. I'll trade hot for a while myself. Been over 100 for almost a month here. Still plugging away though.

 

[eastwoodad]

Just got back from the track, not too many things went wrong...haha. :tongue: It was 90 degrees, but cooled to low 80's, track was nice and sticky...not that I needed it. Had an issue with the lightweight wheel/tire combo last minute and had to put heavy Buick rally wheels on it.

First pass seemed OK until middle of first gear...I almost thought it was spinning but knew better and got worse as the pass went on...trans or converter was slipping. 16.22 at 87.

Pulled in the pits and checked the trans fluid....none on the dipstick...DOH! I was fine about a week ago and didnt see notice any leaks in the driveway. Oh well...it took 3 quarts! Went back out with very little cool down and went much better. 15.58 at 87.

Ran a few more times playing with the shift points and went 15.42, 15.40, 15.37, and 15.38 at 89. All in all, I was pretty satisfied for the first outing and know there is more in it. It only runs through the traps at 5000rpm. Need to get some weight out of it and play with the carb and timing. We found out the timing was advancing, but only WAY up in the RPM band...like over 4000 which we feel was hurting it on the top end. It is the stock computer controlled distributor, but unplugged...figured it was "locked out" as timing was controlled by the computer but I guess not.

14's here I come. Oh that sounds lame...

 

[WarWagon]

Good stuff! 15.38@89 is respectable for NA not tuned. I know exactly what you mean about the timing on the distributor. Yep you found that out safely lucky your NA, When I discovered that problem(Forever advancing ignition timing) running a un plugged ECU controlled 7 pin hei module I was running a stock '83 drawthru turbo system, knocking and was popping head gaskets everyweek, eventually lost the ringlands and some rings on hole #2 but that was much later with alot more power haha.
Great news keep on with it, and Get that Video up hahaha.

Also forgot to add. Swap over to a 4 pin HEI module and your timing problems will be cured.

 

[eastwoodad]

Good stuff! 15.38@89 is respectable for NA not tuned. I know exactly what you mean about the timing on the distributor. Yep you found that out safely lucky your NA, When I discovered that problem(Forever advancing ignition timing) running a un plugged ECU controlled 7 pin hei module I was running a stock '83 drawthru turbo system, knocking and was popping head gaskets everyweek, eventually lost the ringlands and some rings on hole #2 but that was much later with alot more power haha.
Great news keep on with it, and Get that Video up hahaha.

Also forgot to add. Swap over to a 4 pin HEI module and your timing problems will be cured.

I was actually pretty pleased with the time. The car is full weight right now, all steel, early bumpers with heavy supports, full interior, wipers, etc. The only weight savings is no AC, but the evaporator is still there.

On the distributor, my theory is the computer distributor and 7 pin module are designed strictly for emissions...hence the never ending advance...haha.

I suppose it is now a bit quicker than even a stock C/T setup, so I am pleased. Thanks for the support guys!

 

[mikemcvaney]

What size tire? How tall

 

[eastwoodad]

What size tire? How tall

245/60/15, so about 26.5" tall.

My dad and his racing buddy think they have the non-computer distributor figured out and should be giving it a shot soon. Hopefully that combined with weight reduction will help it pull up top a little better. If you're watching this thread, thanks Bubba for the special "Crouch Motorsports" tune...oh and the 3 quarts of trans fluid. :smile:

 

[mikemcvaney]

What were your best 60 foot times with the 410 gears? curious thinking of putting steeper than 342 in my car.

 

[eastwoodad]

What were your best 60 foot times with the 410 gears? curious thinking of putting steeper than 342 in my car.

A 2.12 60ft was the best it would do. It didn't bog or spin, but we didn't toy with the carb either. The converter seems matched pretty well to the combo too.

 

[mikemcvaney]

pRETTY GOOD FOR A SIX WAIT TILL YOUGET IT DIALED IN. Sorry caps stuck.