bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
i agree, @10psi im at 37-3800. youll be fine. you will find it does take a little longer to spool than the p-trim.
new best 9.68, 70gtq works!
- Thread starter bird
- Start date
i agree, @10psi im at 37-3800. youll be fine. you will find it does take a little longer to spool than the p-trim.
turbov6joe
Signal 1 J-12
- Joined
- May 22, 2002
My pop and I are in the process of finishing his new motor and are looking for another turbo to replace the 6152 he has now. I'm interested to know what you all think are far as a 70 Q trim or 70 P trim...GT series obviously. I've been watching this thread closely, I've been entertaining the idea of the 70 GTQ as well. Here is the new combo...opinions please!:
Comp 210-215 roller
1.55 roller rockers
P&P 8445's (flow better then Champion & look like a work of art!)
70mm TB and Hemco
Ported lower intake w/ EGR removed
.040 over slugs
FMIC
MSD 55's
Dual feed meth injection (Razor kit)
Turbo:?????
Comp 210-215 roller
1.55 roller rockers
P&P 8445's (flow better then Champion & look like a work of art!)
70mm TB and Hemco
Ported lower intake w/ EGR removed
.040 over slugs
FMIC
MSD 55's
Dual feed meth injection (Razor kit)
Turbo:?????
hey Bird...by my calculations your injectors seem a little small at what duty cycle were they running
bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
hi penum, duty cycle was well over 100 in some areas. definately time for some 83's or maybe larger fuel lines.
bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
Rich all those hours in the garage with the wife nagging finally paid off.You deserved this, lots of trial and error and hard work has made that little V-6 a sick street car good for you bro.Your flying.Hey maybe we can play with my car now?
thanks raberted. i have no complaints about the wife. generally speaking shes been good about it. as far as your car is concerned, any time your ready. i have a 70 with your name on it
thanks raberted. i have no complaints about the wife. generally speaking shes been good about it. as far as your car is concerned, any time your ready. i have a 70 with your name on it
Ya i know your wife has been cool about your buick time
bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
she really doesnt have much of a choice
i would never stop her from doing something she enjoyed, being married doesnt mean being inprisoned. a little tolerance from both parties and everyones happy. she really has no complaints either. i do more than my fair share and then some around the house. she has it good too nevermind all this dr phil crap. lets get that car ready for a 9.90 pass
I'm sorry to say, without a cage, i don't think Cayauga is going to let you run again. The cage must be have the bars towards the front and around the headliner, etc, then you need a safety net, etc'. Then your insurance is going to see the cage and freak out. WHats the plan?
bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
no plan as off yet. i just plan on street driving for now. i dont know if id even want to run that fast again without a cage. maybe i will put one in. i dont care about the insurance thing, as long as i am not street racing i dont see a problem. my wife works in insurance i will get her to verify this. i am just waiting for santa claus at this point. not really thinking about it.
bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
the cam is a 210 hyd roller. the lobe seperation is 110.
Something To Think About
Hey Bird, just a thought but something in the 218 to 224 range on a 110 lobe seperation "may" get you the same place with a little less boost and some porting "for sure" has no down sides regardless what cam your running. I don't know if you remember but I was one that thought the new turbo would add a little something to the mix when you where kicking it around.
PS: If you were to try a cam change, I would go to a mech. roller this time to save weight on the lifters and gain some revs.
A rule of thumb is that it takes 5 degrees more duration on a mech. cam to equal a hyd. cam's duration which is due to the mech. lash setting. Also you can make the cam a little larger or smaller by playing with the lash.
Hey Bird, just a thought but something in the 218 to 224 range on a 110 lobe seperation "may" get you the same place with a little less boost and some porting "for sure" has no down sides regardless what cam your running. I don't know if you remember but I was one that thought the new turbo would add a little something to the mix when you where kicking it around.
PS: If you were to try a cam change, I would go to a mech. roller this time to save weight on the lifters and gain some revs.
A rule of thumb is that it takes 5 degrees more duration on a mech. cam to equal a hyd. cam's duration which is due to the mech. lash setting. Also you can make the cam a little larger or smaller by playing with the lash.
bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
Hey Bird, just a thought but something in the 218 to 224 range on a 110 lobe seperation "may" get you the same place with a little less boost and some porting "for sure" has no down sides regardless what cam your running. I don't know if you remember but I was one that thought the new turbo would add a little something to the mix when you where kicking it around.
PS: If you were to try a cam change, I would go to a mech. roller this time to save weight on the lifters and gain some revs.
A rule of thumb is that it takes 5 degrees more duration on a mech. cam to equal a hyd. cam's duration which is due to the mech. lash setting. Also you can make the cam a little larger or smaller by playing with the lash.
thanks for the tips. at this point i am a little hesitant to change the combo. i would definately go a little bigger in the cam dept on another build. dont think i would go solid roller in a street car
thanks for the tips. at this point i am a little hesitant to change the combo. i would definately go a little bigger in the cam dept on another build. dont think i would go solid roller in a street car
I know you have a few concerns about a mechanical roller cam on the street (valve float would be one of mine) but from my own trails I don't think there is much of a valve train noise difference between the two in a "Buick" and if you remember GM sold muscle cars in the past that used mech. cams for street use. I think most cam companies now offer in a mechanical roller what they call/term "street roller". If I do another engine I am going to think long and hard on a mech. roller.
bird
Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2003
I know you have a few concerns about a mechanical roller cam on the street (valve float would be one of mine) but from my own trails I don't think there is much of a valve train noise difference between the two in a "Buick" and if you remember GM sold muscle cars in the past that used mech. cams for street use. I think most cam companies now offer in a mechanical roller what they call/term "street roller". If I do another engine I am going to think long and hard on a mech. roller.
i ran a solid roller destroked 377 small block chevy in a Z28 back in the late eighties. i dont mind the added noise, if any, i am just getting to old and lazy to check and adjust them. the "street roller" sounds interesting but i think id only go mechanical in more of a track only car.
Turbo1dr
9 Sec Wanna-Be
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I can't seem to take my eyes off this thread. I'm sitting here wondering what the hell am I doing wrong with my car... Hopefully taking my stock computer system off and going to a XFI will make a difference but I'm not going to get my hopes up just yet.
Hopefully taking my stock computer system off and going to a XFI will make a difference but I'm not going to get my hopes up just yet.My $.02
Build a .030/.040 over 3.8 stroker (i.e.around 250+ cu.in.) and your there without braking a "sweat" (lower boost) and try to keep the rotating assembly as light as you can i.e. use the stock cut dowm front damper, the lightest pistons available and "maybe" a light oem flex plate; because the forged crank itself will add somewhere around 6 lbs. to the rotating mass. Oh and you may want to up the compression just a tad (8.5/9.0) and as Indian Jones would say "trust me". One last thing; can we say Art Car 19930 converter, Bird uses the older 16930 like I do.
PS: I know I wasted my time typing this because you already knew.
Build a .030/.040 over 3.8 stroker (i.e.around 250+ cu.in.) and your there without braking a "sweat" (lower boost) and try to keep the rotating assembly as light as you can i.e. use the stock cut dowm front damper, the lightest pistons available and "maybe" a light oem flex plate; because the forged crank itself will add somewhere around 6 lbs. to the rotating mass. Oh and you may want to up the compression just a tad (8.5/9.0) and as Indian Jones would say "trust me". One last thing; can we say Art Car 19930 converter, Bird uses the older 16930 like I do.
PS: I know I wasted my time typing this because you already knew.
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