Opinions needed. Broke a valve spring. Need a lil help. UPDATE 5/28/16

T-typinater, havent heard that name mentioned in quite a while,was once trying to buy a Merkle engine but could never get in touch with anyone. Always wondered what ever happened to him.


I think you might have the wrong name, I don't even know what a Merkle engine is.
But if i run across one i will be happy to sell it to you. :)
 
I think you might have the wrong name, I don't even know what a Merkle engine is.
But if i run across one i will be happy to sell it to you. :)

Jack Merkel Performance Engines
he was a Buick Engine builder on the EAST coast .. I've seen a few engines he did ... some performed way way over the top .. others were a disaster .
There must have been a transition point mixed in there .
 
Jack Merkel Performance Engines
he was a Buick Engine builder on the EAST coast .. I've seen a few engines he did ... some performed way way over the top .. others were a disaster .
There must have been a transition point mixed in there .


Thanks for the info.
 
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T-typinater, havent heard that name mentioned in quite a while,was once trying to buy a Merkle engine but could never get in touch with anyone. Always wondered what ever happened to him.

Sorry gene I thought you meant you were trying to buy a merkel engine from me. :oops:

I just realized that you were talking about the article that i put a link to in the previous posts, i didn't realize that was Merkel in that story about building the 3.8's.
Sorry for my confusion. :oops:

And sorry to the op for high jacking this thread.
 
I read this entire thread and am really sorry to hear about your situation. This is exactly why I am building my motor myself this time around. My build by a well known shop in 2010 was filled with mistakes and I paid a lot for it. I looked over your receipt and I would also question the assembly of the short block. It looks like they checked out and polished the crank, more than my shop did, but I did not see any mention of chamfering the bearings. I don't know if this is required with the particular bearings that they used in your application but it was in mine and it did not get done. I hope they make it right for you.
 
OK here is the info I could get. Dunno how helpful it will be but it's all they could dig up.

Main Bearings .0014"
Rod Bearings .002"
Piston to Wall Clearance .005"

So I'm pretty much at the end of telling all of you everything i could about this build. Open to suggestions but here is where my heads at with my to do list and assuming my bottom end is fine.

1. New Cam
2. Put the head back on
3 . Oil flush to hopefully get any debris out
4 . New oil cooler wont hurt
5. Turn key and run a high 10 in the quarter.

Can you guys chime in on this new info and suggest any other steps I should take to move forward.
 
I am no expert but that piston to wall clearance sounds a little tight?? My Diamond pistons stated .0045" clearance + .001" to .003" for a turbo or nitrous application. It may be ok. I don't know what the coating does. I am sure the experts on here will chime in soon.
 
Just looked at the cam you had in the engine and to be honest it looks like a blower cam. Where you make boost with rpm. It does have 1* of overlap, good move on swapping it out. Think my engine has the wrong cam in it also lol.
 
Alright first and foremost, I can't say enough good things about @David Husek and turbobuickperformance.com. The short and skinny is that he helped me choose a new cam and was always there when I needed his help. Read on for details.




Looking pretty after a bath.




The repair to the valve guide which the machine shop did for free.


So first, @David Husek and I discussed what was in the motor and my available options. I had K motion 750s with 1.65 rockers and titanium retainers. The old cam was a something like a 232/224 which is ludicrous and I don't mean in the Tesla motors kind of way. After some complicated math, we figured out I could safely run a 218/212 with the appropriate spring height of somewhere in the 1.630 to 1.650 range. I ordered up all new valve springs along with a rollmaster timing chain and gears.





Out with the old





In with the new





One head was already off the motor so changing out the springs wasn’t too hard. The drivers side head was still on and a bit more problematic, but I managed to make it happen.





I put cylinder #1 TDC and started putting the rest of the motor together. Primed it and set my cam sensor.





So now I was ready to turn the key. To my surprise, it started right up. I stared at the engine bay looking for something spraying fluid but all seemed well. I sat in the drivers seat and let it warm up, then I lost oil pressure. Shut it down right away and said a few curse words. Pulled the cam sensor and primed it and my pressure came back. Ok try this again. Turn the key and let it warm up. Everything looks normal. I go to check the scan master for any codes and it spits a 15 at me…. More cursing. Found the temp sensor that I didn’t plug in. Ok code 15 gone. Start it again and let it run… Antifreeze all over my floor. Lots of cursing and I went in for the night thinking I had screwed up my timing cover gaskets or a head gasket.


I went back to it the next day with a clear head and found my leak. Heater rail that screws into the front side of the intake was loose. Ok great so I start it again and wait… and wait… and wait some more…





Ok vitals look good, lets see how she pulls. Did a few passes with it. Tested the waters rolling into it at 10psi and then stepped up until I was hitting 18psi to 22psi, which is right where I’ve been living.


Thanks for the help everyone, and especially @David Husek.

I should also mention that @turbolou helped me out when I needed it. Glad to know these guys.

Until next time.


Happy spooling,


Tom
 
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Great work.. Glad to see you are back on the road and Props to Dave for providing the support , glad to see vendor support of this caliber !

Now go enjoy the car!!
 
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