push lock vacuum lines

I trimmed out the lip on the map sensor and used a compression over the nipple. Then adapter the compression fitting.. whalla..

I use the -3 teflon SS hose on my connections. XRP ends.


Pics???
 
i got a buddy of mine that uses these push to lock deals on his truck for his air ride.He has 3/5 inch airline going to each bag and all the compressor stuff works Great.and that is shoving 150psi to each bag at a time so you be the judge...
 
I bought my fittings from Grainger. Legris was the manufacturer. My vacuum block rubs on the hood so I planned on putting a thin cover plate on the throttle body and tapping the manifold with a couple of 1/8 npt holes. I was considering a remote Vacuum block or Tee to supply some of the other items.
For me its BOV/Boost Controller/PCV/Fuel Regulator/Map/Guage/Brakes.

my vaccum block rubs on the hoodliner thus wrecking it to so i am looking a machining a thinner vaccum block to remedy the problem.I have a buddy who is drawing it up now...
 
So I've been watching this because I'm "At that point" in my build.

I'm using a Grainger Solenoid as a boost control solenoid now. It has simple 1/8 NPT fittings so I went out and got the pushlocks for that. I also replaced the port in the turbo outlet with pushlock.

The Stock actuator presented a problem but if I trimmed the lip off of it a 1/4 pushlock union would go on and hold (tested it with compressed air)

For the line to the map I spliced and fuel pressure regulator I heated 1/4 air hose and pushed it over the line and slipped a short piece of adhesive lined shrink wrap over it to make sure it stays and doesn't leak. I then used a pushlock union so I could take things apart if I had to.

I'm planning on tapping the FPR for a pushlock here in the next couple of days.


The rest of the stuff has check valves so they're not pressurized so I'm gonna leave that alone with the exception of a drop of superglue on the nipples to hold them in place.

I may chicken out and tie wrap those too.
 
Aminga.. here are some shots how I did mine. Sorry for the delay :redface:
 

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So an update. My push locks on the wastgate actuator failed the leakdown test. It wouldn't come off but was bypassing some air. Using julio's as a basis. I got some 1/4 X 1/8 NPT compression fittings from McMaster Carr. It fits on the barb on both the wastegate actuator and the MAP sensor and it seals. THen I used a 1/8 X 1/4 Pushlock on that.

I'm all converted now, Pics to follow
 
So an update. My push locks on the wastgate actuator failed the leakdown test. It wouldn't come off but was bypassing some air. Using julio's as a basis. I got some 1/4 X 1/8 NPT compression fittings from McMaster Carr. It fits on the barb on both the wastegate actuator and the MAP sensor and it seals. THen I used a 1/8 X 1/4 Pushlock on that.

I'm all converted now, Pics to follow

whos push locks are you using, mine doesnt leak
 
whos push locks are you using, mine doesnt leak

Some I got from the local fastenal. They just acted like they wouldn't seal to the MAP barb

Just for reference the problem was with a Union over the barb. Seals fine to the plastic line
 
I'm in the process of converting my car right now. I have the intake drilled and tapped at the front and rear with 1/8" NPT for fittings. Anybody have more pics to share?

Has anyone added any type of a fitting (compression, push lok, etc.) to the fuel pressure regulator? The nipple on my Bosch regulator appears as if it is threaded in. I'm wondering if I can remove the nipple and drill and tap as neaded for a more robust sealing connection.
 
......Has anyone added any type of a fitting (compression, push lok, etc.) to the fuel pressure regulator? The nipple on my Bosch regulator appears as if it is threaded in. I'm wondering if I can remove the nipple and drill and tap as neaded for a more robust sealing connection.

A couple years ago I did drill and tap the fuel regulator for a push lock fitting and hard plastic hose.

Since then I relocated the regulator to the frame right next to the return fuel line. At that time I replaced the push lock stuff with a metal line into the reg. I now have almost no plastic or rubber lines around the engine or tranny, they are either braided or metal :)

The pic shows it with the plastic line when it was on the driver's fender by the firewall.
 

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Vac Block

I drilled & tapped 2 x 3/8 fittings at the back of my spacer. 1 is for the PCV, the other will run to the block which will be mounted remotely. The fitting on the far right is how I hope to connect to otner barbed connectors. There are "dual wall" heat shrinks you can buy that are also waterproof
{Polyolefin lining that has a thin layer of thermoplastic adhesive.
The outer wall is radiation cross-linked and maintains a high flow with excellent adhesion of the inner sealant liner}.
, thats what I will shrink over the barb connections.
 

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Here's what I did on mine.


Wastegate Solenoid and MAP

enginebuild_20100405_004.jpg


Turbo and Wastegate

enginerebuild_20100401_011.jpg


FPR.

enginerebuild_20100401_017.jpg
 
I think Cottons sells a kit also.
Yep! Here are a few shots of the lines and fittings which Brian installed on my car. :wink: I think that they also sell this as a kit (custom-made for each customer's specific needs).
1st pic: vacuum block
2nd pic: boost controller sensors
3rd pic: wastegate

Claude. :smile:
 

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I started with Jacks vacuum block kit then, bought copious amounts of pushlok connectors off E-bay, then compression to 1/8 NPT adapter fittings for the MAP sensor etc, one of my favorite mods to date.
Added a billet vacuum block on the fender well for pressure sensor etc.
 
I used a kit I got from a raffle at Pat's Auto Care. One of the best mods I have done. No vacuum leaks anywhere. The only thing that is not set up for it is my wastegate set-up. Will get to that ASAP.
 
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