Scanmaster rewire for faster refresh?

Turbo6Smackdown

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Is there somewhere I could tap into with the white serial data scanmaster wire, say one of the wires on the ecm, for a faster refresh rate? For some reason it seems that after yanking my powerlogger, my refresh rate is slower than what it was before I had the powerlogger.
 
First to answer your question, NO. Second, why would you remove the Powerlogger????

The Extender chips can be ordered with the fast update option.
 
Because he's afraid of it. Knows nothing about tuning and refuses to learn. Been all though that with him, gave up. Of course with the Powerlogger you can use the fast update chip for the Scanmaster but no Powerlogger, no fast update...
 
It's not that I refuse to learn lol. It's a long story but here goes. I ordered a bunch of new stuff for this car in 2008/09 while on deployment. Had it all put on by a local mechanic, assuming that he, or someone around here would know this stuff. When it got installed, noone knew how to use the stuff, and the people who did, were too busy to really sit down and teach me this stuff. (i don't blame them whatsoever-they're super busy people) The other two people I had in mind to teach me 1, had no clue how the stuff worked and 2. had no experience because they don't use this equipment. My fault for assuming lol. I didn't do my leader's recon before ordering.

So now I have this half assembled car sitting in the storage unit (I don't have a garage) 3 miles away, and I don't know how to finish assembling it, and even if I did, I've no clue how to use it. I just got married a little while ago, and have no real time for a steep learning curve lol. Meanwhile every friend I know is constantly pressuring me to get the car back on the road because they want me to go crusing/racing on the local strip with them. I don't have the time to post a "how do I..." question on here, and wait 6 days in between each question and hope for a response that I can use, then go back up to the storage unit, try it, and then see what happens, only to have to drive back down here, and repost another question. This project would take 10 years at that rate, and this car sat in the storage unit since 2009 collecting dust, because noone knows how to work on it, or tune it, or, if they do know how to tune it, they don't have the time to donate to teach me.

I had, literally, wires coming out of everywhere, hooked up too all sorts of shit I had never seen before, all the while battling massive amounts of fuel in the oil, and then having people trying to tell me it's normal with a turbo buick, and that 1. "there's always a fuel smell in oil" when I know it's not true because I used to run an oil change facility lol. I used to handle used oil contantly, and 2, telling me that "it'll burn off in time"... No it won't. The car never had this problem before-why does it have it now? So now I don't want to drive it anywhere because it has a "tick" like never before. So now is this massive tick an improperly adjusted valve train? Or is it oil washed down with fuel, putting 50 times the wear on the engine that's supposed to be there, opening up the clearances and ruining my brand new engine? So now I'm stranded by myself to tackle these three problems that may or may not be related with 1. zero experience and 2, zero time and resources. Hence the whole slew of posts from me in the last 3 months.

My only option was to yank each option that I have no experience in one by one, to try and see what is what. I have to go back to ground zero and start from the beginning, slowly adding each component back (MYSELF, because you can never trust a mechanic to cover the small details) and start my lessons all over again. There were wires barely crimped into their spade connectors, there were full lengths of wires just sittin' behind my dash doing absolutely nothing, not connected to shit, gauges were cocked at a 90 degree angle because they wouldn't fit in the gauge pods, gauge pods were installed incorrectly, random bolts were missing from all around the car, the fuel pressure gauge was on the fritz, exhaust pipes leaning up againt the control arms and springs, ghostly vacuum leaks that may or may not have been there etc. etc.

This stuff doesn't sound too hard, but when you work full time, just get married, and don't have immediate access to your car for the prolonged projects, what do you do? I work out of a cramped storage shed, and a single portable tool box, that's 3 miles away from my house lol. Every day I go back there and turn a wrench here and there, create another problem, drive back home, post the problem on the board, wait 4 days for the correct answer, drive back the next day, turn another wrench, or solder another wire, then come back, post another question, and it continues from there lol. I have absolutely zero experience with electrical, and computers. So when someone says "just hook the grey wire up to the so and so port" I shoot over to the storage place and find out theres 3 grey wires lol. So now what? Or just load these new drivers into your laptop and the powerlogger should run, but then I load them and it says "you cannot open this file", so now I drive all the way back and post that question, wait 3 days... I have no clue how to operate laptops. I pulled triggers and turned wrenches since I was a teenager lol. It's all I know. The only electronics I have a grasp on, is advanced antenna theory and radio wave propagation from being a commo sergeant on my team- AM, FM, USB/LSB, HF, VHF, UHF, SATCOM, & microwave signals. Period lol. When someone says "driver", I ask quarter inch or 3/8ths? But give me a radio, ANY radio, and I'll make commo with it.

All I want is my car back together, without wires all over the place, and the ecm back into its little cubby where it belongs, not stuck on my floor hemorraging wires because noone knows where all the wires go lol. So I ripped all that stuff out and used the Casper's translator wiring harness and now it's a little better lol. Have yet to figure out how to put it all back in the ecm kick panel with the powerlogger sticking out of the bottom and this cable from the top. I'll get it though.

I've no clue how to operate the lap top and powerlogger yet. I'll learn, but for now, I need this car basically stock so that I can at least work on it & get it running, and not soo rich. It runs now but I'm still battling knock that I still can't determine if it's false or not because it may be my jacked up exhaust that someone put on wrong, my super noisy valve train, or real KR. So I still can't drive it for extended periods. It's coming along though! It's almost drivable. Just waiting on a boost gauge from Mr. Clark and I should be up and running! I just can't hammer it till I find out what's up. Don't worry, I'll get that powerlogger yet!
 
Pack everything you have up and tow it to Jack Cotton. Tell him you want it back running 11s in the spring. You'll have all winter to learn more about what you have. Jack can show you how to use what you have. Big mistake to go to someone that has little or no Turbo Buick knowledge. Gonna cost you but if you want to drive the car at all that's the best option.
 
Pack everything you have up and tow it to Jack Cotton. Tell him you want it back running 11s in the spring. You'll have all winter to learn more about what you have. Jack can show you how to use what you have. Big mistake to go to someone that has little or no Turbo Buick knowledge. Gonna cost you but if you want to drive the car at all that's the best option.

Best advice I've heard in a long time!

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
I know a few others that could straighten you out too. You need to simplify. You've got 10 second potential parts. First you need to set a goal; low 12s easy driver, 11s more edgy, 10s you're not ready yet. Then how to integrate the parts you have and still keep it simple enough for you to keep it running right. I suggest a low 12 goal with an easy launch and low boost. Regular Translator, LS MAF, TT Alky chip, Alky Control, Scanmaster with update chip, Powerlogger with your wb O2. Go with an Eaton Posi, aftermarket axles and some 255 drag radials. You got everything else, just need to have someone to tune it and you learn how to launch it. Drive to NED, lower air pressure in tires, put 20lbs in right airbag, and run 12.2@110. Lots of people can help you learn how to use the Powerlogger. Not difficult.
 
Location? If I'm near by I can stop by to see what we're dealing with.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Pronto, you're right on with what I'm going for. The build was for a high ten second car, but I abandoned that once I seen how complicated the stuff was to me. So I said with just a translator and alky, I could bust low 12's all day. I have the tires as well, just gotta get the rims that will fit them, and chase my knock source. I can launch this car too :) I'm no amatuer, I just have to get more tech savvy :)
 
Because he's afraid of it. Knows nothing about tuning and refuses to learn. Been all though that with him, gave up. Of course with the Powerlogger you can use the fast update chip for the Scanmaster but no Powerlogger, no fast update...

the plogger SM (scanmaster data output on aux block) is at a faster rate(about 5 frames per sec) than a standard chip chip ALDl port (one frame per 1.3 sec)
but a chip can be burned with a faster update code (three frames per sec) and doesnt need the PLogger
 
Thought the PL was 18 frames a second? The Scanmaster with the update chip is not reading at 18 f/s? Good info on the chip but don't think that would help the OP.
 
18 is the logging rate
repeat
scanmaster with fast code is 3 frames per second , plogger data to SM is 5 frames/sec , and stock aldl code is one frame every 1.3 sec
 
At 5 f/s then the Scanmaster move pretty good. Guess if it was 18 it would unreadable?
 
18 is the logging rate
repeat
scanmaster with fast code is 3 frames per second , plogger data to SM is 5 frames/sec , and stock aldl code is one frame every 1.3 sec

Don't you mean ECU chip with the fast code? I was told it was the chip doing it, not the chip inside the scanmaster itself.
And now I'm reading that if you do the fast update, you lose all sorts of other stuff, and gain some other worthless stuff like spark and whatnot.
 
contact your chip guy and request a reburn with fast update code for scanmaster

scanmaster 2.0 can use the Y data stream
scanmaster 2.1 can use Y or W data stream

and turbo6smackdown if you read my post before that i clearly stated you dont need a pl to get faster updates and that its s the chip that gets reburned
and yes you loose some features in the code like MALfunction code (you can use the paperclip to retreive codes if you get an SES lamp) but you get much faster O2 and KR updates which could just save your engine , a kr or low o2 update 1.3 seconds after it occcured may be too late . if you dont push your junk than maybe you dont need the fast update
 
Ok, found a way to wire in the scanmaster, without having all the wires hanging all over the place. Nice and neat now. Love my faster refresh :)
 
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