solid motor mounts
- Thread starter copteaser
- Start date
I ran solid mounts on my Mustang. That was the worse thing i could have done. Although ivenever seen a solid mount on a TR, im sure not only would ride quality be affected, but i know in other block solid mounts cause distorsion of the block and bore.
The HR poly mounts are the way to go. I have the drivers side one in my car , there is just no need to go any other way.this is one bad azz motor mount. With this unit on the market there is NO need fo a solid.
The HR poly mounts are the way to go. I have the drivers side one in my car , there is just no need to go any other way.this is one bad azz motor mount. With this unit on the market there is NO need fo a solid.
HRpartsNstuff
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
Thanks Louie for the good words on our mounts 
PS- Your link to the car of the month doesn't work. I was hoping to get a look at your ride.
I just talked to a guy in PA today that put a GN motor in an '88 Mustang with solid mounts. He said it is shaking him out of the car so bad it is rediculous. Our research during the design stages found that solid mounts also rip the block apart! Quite a few blocks were busted due to solid mounts, even stg II blocks. You can't tie the motor to the chassis solid & not expect something to give. Unfortunately, the cast iron block is the weakest link, and it gives out. I ran one solid mount on mine in the early years. Luckily I only ripped the mount to pieces & not the block. With a pair of solids, I can only imagine it would set off the knock sensor. Most of the ones I heard of ran DFI's without knock sensors. Our mounts have no effect on the knock sensor.
We made our mounts stronger than any solid mount I could find, and used polyurethane to allow it to move a little. This gives the ultimate strength & doesn't stress the block like a solid mount would. Some cars reported a slight vibration from our mounts because it ties the motor down so good. Even though it wasn't much to worry about, we had special softer bushings custom made for us. Now we can offer them with a softer "street/strip" bushing, or the "race" version with the regular bushings in there. Either one is actually OK on the street, just trying to please everyone
Our local motor builder that does megabuck Nascar & pro truck pulling motors gave us some input too. He had a chassis mocked up with a bare block & solid mounts. He put on head plates to simulate the heads bolted on. He checked the bores, all were round. Now he jacked up a front corner to simulate going into a turn on the track. The bores distorted .001-.002 from just doing that. Racing forces would be much worse. That means he was losing power from the rings not sealing and wearing everything out quicker. He swapped out the solid mounts and will never go back. A car without rollbar would be even worse.
Hope that helps answer your (not so dumb) question. Hope you learn this the easy way & not the hard way that some of us have.
PS- Your link to the car of the month doesn't work. I was hoping to get a look at your ride.I just talked to a guy in PA today that put a GN motor in an '88 Mustang with solid mounts. He said it is shaking him out of the car so bad it is rediculous. Our research during the design stages found that solid mounts also rip the block apart! Quite a few blocks were busted due to solid mounts, even stg II blocks. You can't tie the motor to the chassis solid & not expect something to give. Unfortunately, the cast iron block is the weakest link, and it gives out. I ran one solid mount on mine in the early years. Luckily I only ripped the mount to pieces & not the block. With a pair of solids, I can only imagine it would set off the knock sensor. Most of the ones I heard of ran DFI's without knock sensors. Our mounts have no effect on the knock sensor.
We made our mounts stronger than any solid mount I could find, and used polyurethane to allow it to move a little. This gives the ultimate strength & doesn't stress the block like a solid mount would. Some cars reported a slight vibration from our mounts because it ties the motor down so good. Even though it wasn't much to worry about, we had special softer bushings custom made for us. Now we can offer them with a softer "street/strip" bushing, or the "race" version with the regular bushings in there. Either one is actually OK on the street, just trying to please everyone
Our local motor builder that does megabuck Nascar & pro truck pulling motors gave us some input too. He had a chassis mocked up with a bare block & solid mounts. He put on head plates to simulate the heads bolted on. He checked the bores, all were round. Now he jacked up a front corner to simulate going into a turn on the track. The bores distorted .001-.002 from just doing that. Racing forces would be much worse. That means he was losing power from the rings not sealing and wearing everything out quicker. He swapped out the solid mounts and will never go back. A car without rollbar would be even worse.
Hope that helps answer your (not so dumb) question. Hope you learn this the easy way & not the hard way that some of us have.
turbojimmy
Supporting Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
I just put my HRpartsnStuff mounts in this week. They're awesome. The motor does sit a bit higher, though. Had to tweak my V4 shroud and my heater box shield. There is slightly more vibration, but nothing to worry about.
Jim
Jim
Louie's car link should be:
http://www.gnttype.org/carofthemonth/archive/1thru30/sub1/comdetails.html
I reorganized the Featured Car stuff to group them, since we have so many. Makes it easier to manage.
http://www.gnttype.org/carofthemonth/archive/1thru30/sub1/comdetails.html
I reorganized the Featured Car stuff to group them, since we have so many. Makes it easier to manage.
