Trans Question/ Rocker Shafts

Mr. Upholsterer

Smoking the Buick
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
I believe I have the 200 R4 in the 83 Regal, going to pull the motor as soon as it gets a little warmer and put in some forged pistons and a hot air turbo on it..My question is the stock trans is pretty good, meaning it does not slip or anything, Shifting points seem a little strange though..Do you think I should have it built up a little, or just throw a shift kit in it ?? This car will be for street only on racing....I think there is only about 50K miles on the trans and it was always babied .??? Also I have been looking around for those Heavy Duty Rocker shafts too... I can't find then anywhere...I even tried NAPA, Auto Zone, National Auto and no luck..I even called Sealed Power, now Federal Mougal or something and they knew nothing..Sent them e-mails hoping to get around the stupid phone person to no avail...Sealed power sent me to Auto Zone and I gave them the part Number and they said that was the stock one. and there was no listing for a HD Rocker shaft... I do have a higher lift cam and springs for this motor...:cool:
 
I believe that TAperformance has the HD rocker shafts so I'd contact them Vince.

As far as the tranny look at the sticky in the tranny section and it should give you some idea of how to make it live.
 
Body Flex

:confused::confused: I jacked up my 83 Regal the other day and noticed man this thing flexes like a banana...Can't be good...Can't even jack up the car under the door the tissue paper frame will bend like paper...Its almost like this thing needs a big sub frame connector or something.. anybody ever address this problem ??:confused::confused:
 
Perhaps it's rotton? My '84 is stock and it's solid, but I also only jack it up. In the factory jack locations ir the front crossmember or the rear axle.
 
:confused::confused: I jacked up my 83 Regal the other day and noticed man this thing flexes like a banana...Can't be good...Can't even jack up the car under the door the tissue paper frame will bend like paper...Its almost like this thing needs a big sub frame connector or something.. anybody ever address this problem ??:confused::confused:

haha, my turn to shine:D do some research on what the japaneese lowriders do with thier cars. Japanese lowriders are becoming prettty popular both in japan and here in america, but one problem they addressed was the strenght of the g-body frame. they have found a way to box the frame and make it more rigid. another thing you could do is take it to a place that builds lowriders and have them box the frame for you. If you were to take a stock g-body frame and get a 200lb person to stand or lightly hop on the frame, i guarantee you you can warp that frame.

A cheap alternative would be to find some body/frame bracing under g-body cars. underhood frame bracing from a monte carlo or grand prix (leave the cutlass supremem ones alone) and frame bracing from monte carlos, cutlasses, and grand prixs.
 
Frame Brace

I was thinking about just getting 1/4 inch steel sheet and welding / boxing the frame with it...I was also thinking of getting a round steel tube like a roll bar and just weld it into the cheap metal that is there.. just thinking out loud here.. I use to have a 74 trans Am and put in sub frame connectors and it was amazing how it helped that car go around corners...it was like a new car..:cool:
 
The body is flexable because a rigid frame makes for a poor ride. Check your body bushings and I'll bet they're gone.

You only need 1/8" matereal to stiffen it up and still keep it light. If you go with 1/4" you may find it rides a little rough because it's that much stiffer.
 
Flex o Frame

I do know the frame is still in pretty good condition though...Most of the cars life was spent in a garage...Fighting a battle with rust now though since I no longer have a garage for it, Lower Control arms, front anti sway bar, drive shaft and rear axle are all covered with rust now..After I get the motor and trans out I will start sand blasting it..and painting it..:wink:
 
Flex o Frame

Guys, Just checked out my body mounts...seems like the bottom half of the body mount was vaporized...I mean nothing...I have some super hard hockey pucks I'm going to try to put in and see what happens. Anybody know where I can get some kind of a plug to put in the back of the trans where the driveshaft goes in to stop it from leaking ??::smile:
 
If the drive shaft is out then you can get a cheap plug from harbor frieght. I think I paid less than $5 for the one I've got.

As far as the bushings you need to replace them all now while you still can. You can get them off evilbay for around $100 for a full set. Get new body bolts from Kirbans when you do. Also don't try and use an impact on the bolts, use a rachet so you don't strip the threads out of the body.
 
The frame is a little wobbly but I bet most of the flex during jacking up the car is bad mounts/suspension. My car is night and day difference after doing all the work to it. You can put all the braces in you want and they will help but it's like putting duck tape on a cracked bumper. It's not falling apart but it still isn't fixed:eek: I don't even have seat braces and my car is so tight I don't have a single rattle anymore and the car doesn't twist one bit. I look at it this way. Think about how you REALLY want the car and do it that way the first time. You don't want to be like me and have your car torn apart 3 times and still not have paint on it. I don't regret the frame off. Like I always say, everyone should do it once-because you'll never want to do it again LOL! Nah, it's not so bad. It's fun if you actually get some car buddies over that consider working on a car is "hanging out":cool:
 
Stupid trans question

Ok, I have the 200 R4 Trans out....Don't forget I tossed the computer a while back...Now... I have these 2 wires on the Left side in a little square connector just hanging there...I am pretty sure they are used to engage the Over Drive and lock it in...How do I get this thing to work without the computer ??
The motor is just in now by the 2 motor mount bolts...as soon as I get it out I will put in my forged pistons and hardened rods...:smile:
 
4th is mechanical and the lock up is only for the converter Vince. You can rig up a toggle switch to activate it.
 
There's a thread in the tranny section that poped up this week by Yedi and he shows how he did it.
 
Trans lock

Yeti was a little vague ....no actual diagram...I understand what he was saying though...you do need it to disengage when you hit the brake...Went through that with an Old Astro van I had...man that thing would not disengage..it was like trying to stop a freight train when it got rolling...Finally put in a new trans out of a Vette and it worked fine...but that was a 700. Will have do dig out a skematic and see what is happening..I think I have it figured out already have a make switch on the shifter and a brake relay to overide the shifter and I will have to have 12v to work...get this...I have a shifter out of a VW Rabbit that I want to use...even though there is a lot of plastic on it, man this thing is solid as a rock. Its that Gray plastic color and will have to paint it black or something..Thanks for the info...almost forgot about the Brake deal..:D;)
 
Do some searching in the tranny section and I'm sure you'll find exactly what you're looking for Vince. It may take you some time but I can garrantee it's there some where.
 
pulled it out

I got the motor pulled out Yesterday...will send one more photo...Strange pistons...had a kind of a sprue in the center top of the piston...Lots of carbon...man like one teaspoon on top of one of the clyinders...not to mention a lot of sludge... Have to break it down to take it to the machine shop
 

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