Washed my motor

I've always power washed my motors. Only problem I ever had was one time the fan relay got wet and kept the fans on. Once it dried out it was fine however.
 
I power washed my engine once. Trashed alternator and stalled car in heavy traffic. I will never power wash it again. Clean it by hand.
 
Ya as stated earlier I have had car for 5 yrs this is the 2nd time I have washed it , never again ! Lesson learned .
 
Ya as stated earlier I have had car for 5 yrs this is the 2nd time I have washed it , never again ! Lesson learned .
Please don't let a little water keep you from having a nice engine bay. Because it's definitely worth it.

I would like to add a little here. Try this.......

-Loose the pressure washer. You don't need it. No shortcuts.
-First hand, know it's going to be a whole days project.
-When cleaning your engine compartment really good for the first time, choose a nice day with the cars nose pointed at the sun.
-Set up a work table and remove all easy to remove stuff. Inlet pipes, MAF sensor, cruise control, maybe the coil pack, remove filters and put tape over the breathers, wiper reservoir, and anything else within that the day's capable work time will allow.
-Unplug all the stuff you can get to (or at least the important stuff) and squish a little dielectric grease around the connectors boot. Then plug them back in.
-Remove the cam sensor cap. And spread a very thin layer of RTV around the rim of the plastic.
-Add a light misting of water to get everything wet.
-Get a heavy duty spray bottle and fill it with a 4 oz of Dawn Dish Washing Detergent. Then careful not to suds up the bottle, fill it to the top with water.-
-Set the spray stream to sharp and aim at all the greasy spots nice and hard.
-Apply spray and pay attention to valley deck of the the intake, rear block deck near the knock sensor, timing cover nooks and crannies, exhaust port areas on the heads, oil pump and filter area, back of the radiator support, frame and engine cradle.
-Then totally spay everything else with the detergent.
-Take a 1 inch round paint brush and tape a stick to it so you can get into the tight spots.
-Use it to dab and stroke all the tight areas. Getting the dirt loose and sudsing things up.
-Get one of those brass hose ends that comes with "The Hose That Grows". This thing will spray a needle point if needed.
-Keep the hose handy for rinse and repeat procedure as needed.
-Rinse heavily with more flow and less pressure
-Stop when your happy with the results.
-Dry with the leaf blower and towels.
-Now clean your accessories that you removed on a table.
-Take your coil pack and module and carefully rub in some clear RTV around the gasket surface (the easy way). Or take it apart and change gasket and carefully spread thin RTV on both sides.
-Reinstall everything.
-By now, you engine is dry. Start it up and let it warm.
-Dress engine bay with all kinds of jizzim and polishes. Maybe even touch up spray paint, masking with old rags or even an artists paint brush using the spray paint in coffee cups.

Getting things wet will never be a problem again.

If all goes well, and your happy with the results, you will never have to go this far again. Because now all you have to do is spray a little soap on it and rinse it and blow it every couple of weeks. After your engine is clean, keeping it this way is easy. And very few problems will escape notice before they become BIG problems. Leaks, cracks and bad wire connections are are easily noticed on a clean motor. Even exhaust leaks.

You would be surprised how a days worth of work can be so satisfying. Of course,you can go as far as you like. Maybe take 2 days and remove more (stock location intercooler, fuel rail, dog house, valve covers) and clean and spray paint more items. But you know how this goes! Right? Next thing....... Your doing a rebuild!

So you have to stop somewhere. But once you have done the standard good cleaning, it's easy. If something dies because it got a little wet......well then F@CK IT!
It probably needed to be changed anyway.
 
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I'm pretty sure the volt light will come on when the volt booster kicks in. Someone else can verify.
My light came on every time my Caspers volt booster was activated. It will come on with too little or too much voltage. I switched to a Red Armstrong volt booster years ago,but not because my volt light came on.
 
My light came on every time my Caspers volt booster was activated. It will come on with too little or too much voltage. I switched to a Red Armstrong volt booster years ago,but not because my volt light came on.

That's what I thought. Thanks for clarification.
 
I'll second that! I have a Casper's volt booster and my volt light comes on at WOT.

Mine is a Casper's unit. Maybe that explains it, or it just poses another question.............
 
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