What cam size cam specs

Kendall1214

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Joined
Sep 30, 2014
ok guys so I've got a new TA block I'm wanting to go 4inch bore have a stroker crank and wanting to be last cam I get. Right now I have springs enough to go 625 lift. Currently just have ported gn-1 heads. have 1.6 ratio roller rockers. Am planning on going e85 and 9.5:1 compression ratio will get bigger turbo headers and all that down the road. So my question would be can anyone give me a good set of cam specs. Wanting to make 1000hp flywheel! But Just want the cam to get there for now then I'll make my way there while it's running. Speaking of that I don't know how hard it'd be to build the rear end to hold it. Has anyone tried axle tube supports like the pulling trucks use? Or how hard is a Dana 60 swap.?
 
Cam, springs, port work, and turbo all have to match. No sense in picking out a cam if you don't know what turbo you want to use. Chris Hogeland (Twisted6racing) did my cam. I told him what kind of power I wanted to make, what turbo (or approx. size) I wanted to use and he did the rest. Custom cam, port work, springs....

For a rear I'm using a Moser Ford 9" with 350 gears and 5/8" wheel studs. .
 
We have done many alum blocks at that power level.

I would not bore a virgin TA block to 4" bore as there is little HP gain, and would rather stay at 3.90" to start and it will give you "room" to grow if you have a mis-step and trash a piston. I can verify this with over 1000 runs over many years in my alum block, and trashed a few pistons in the learning curve.

For a 1000 HP build I would use a billet, solid roller cam, a specific choice of the cam specs would require more in than posted.
 
I'm runing a solid roller that pulls super hard on the street . 230/230 @ .050 . Here is a pic of my spec sheet
 

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We have done many alum blocks at that power level.

I would not bore a virgin TA block to 4" bore as there is little HP gain, and would rather stay at 3.90" to start and it will give you "room" to grow if you have a mis-step and trash a piston. I can verify this with over 1000 runs over many years in my alum block, and trashed a few pistons in the learning curve.

For a 1000 HP build I would use a billet, solid roller cam, a specific choice of the cam specs would require more in than posted.
In question to the room to grow. Being a sleeved engine with a mishap to one wouldn't it be easier to buy a sleeve and one piston as to reboreing and a whole new set of pistons?! Or does it take all of them out? Just figured being a sleeved motor If one goes it'd be easier to get one and a sleeve or is it harder to get one custom piston as to a set? I don't plan on 1000 right out the gate because I have to set up rest of car too! But I want to have access to 1000 in few months, hopefully giving me the learning time I need. But I want to be able to go further without having to do lower end again aka just changing heads! Is that beyond doing?
 
I'm runing a solid roller that pulls super hard on the street . 230/230 @ .050 . Here is a pic of my spec sheet
Thanks!! So you have a TA block too? My 212/206 hydraulic roller did great on low end! But it is a ductile vs a billet!
 
You are asking for a camshaft ground to work with your springs. The cam isn't going to be the 1000hp factor.


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Speaking of that I don't know how hard it'd be to build the rear end to hold it. Has anyone tried axle tube supports like the pulling trucks use? Or how hard is a Dana 60 swap.?

Call Quick Performance for your rearend and save some cash over Moser . I saved over $1000 on my fabricated 9" . Ask for Max , he will explain everything you would need to support 1000 hp , also you can get a custom 3.40 gearset in the 9" . And don't forget the driveshaft , a Dennys driveshaft takes 3-4 weeks to get . Sam
 
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