280 LPH Supra fuel pump installed

87GNSteve

Just another pretty face....
Joined
Jan 15, 2004
Well a month ago when all these bad Walbro threads started surfacing; and having experienced a premature failure myself I did alot of searching on the boards and other internet resources.
There was mention of the Supra pump being a possiblity in a few threads.
So I decided to order the Toyota Supra Twin Turbo Fuel Pump rated at 280 LPH. I even had seen some figures putting it at 300 LPh at 14.5 volts.
I looked up the application using the Denso website and came up with the part number : 950-0155 their site then has a link to order the item and it refers you to a authorized Denso distributor which in this case was Sparkplugs.com!
The pump arrived today and I couldnt wait to put it in since I had my share of practice with these TR pump changes over the years that I could now do it in the dark.
I'm not going to mention a step by step, just what is different and what I did to install the pump.

I used two stainless worm gear clamps to secure the pump to the hanger.
I installed the sock first, how you position the pump sock is very important you have to angle it on the same side as the level float (as close as you can with out interfering with the operation of the float lever.) (See pic)

Then put on the little feed hose from pump to hanger, the little hose in the kit seemed like it was good quality so I used that one. It didnt need any cutting. It was a bit of a PIA to get this little hose on.
I then clamped each end of the line.
Next I clipped off the little "jumper wire" that the TR pump used and installed two spade connector ends. I played it safe and crimped and soldered the connection. You can cut the harness directly an d not use the jumper but I wanted to have the option of easliy going back to the TR pump if my mission failed.
The two little nuts needed for the POS & NEG (which are two different sizes) does NOT come with the kit. You need to reuse the ones that came with your Supra Turbo.
Since I didnt have a Supra turbo, I had to go digging in my tackle box of hardware I accumulated over the ages. If you do not have a little tackle box of joy, with alot of little metric and machine thread stuff in there; save yourself the heartache and take the pump to the hardware store and start matching it up.
Now for the install-- the little fuel sock has to be gently bent (its bendable) to fit the pump assm into the tank while angling the float in there (see pic).

Then you have to put a little notch at the twelve O clock position of the tank lip. (opposite the tank filler neck)This is because that little nub of the float lever that sticks out gets caught because the pump body is MUCH larger than the stock sized pump.
Trust me on this, I tried to install this without doing it and NO GO.
So I used a small vice grip and bent the metal until there was sufficent clearance. Dont go animal here or you will cause sealing problems for the giant O ring. When I got the pump in I straighted this metal out as best as I could. Do NOT use a grinder or any spark producing implement be very carefulnot to produce any sparks while working in this pump access opening.

When you get it in, install is the same as any TR tank install.

Now I filled up my tank -DO NOT be tempted to run the pump dry it will damage it; (says in the instructions too) and keyed on a few times pressure on my hood gauge came up to 40 psi. Started the car and looked for leaks so far so good.
Went inside took a shower and got ready for my test drive.
Came back out 32 Psi was still showing on the gauge--good no leaks.
Drove slow here and there. So far so good.
Drove to the testing grounds...
Long stretch got boost to 20 psi fuel gauge showed 65 PSI (I have my reg set to 45 line off)
My previous Walbro pump with all the same settings showed 60-62 PSI at 20 lbs of boost.
With my old set up I saw .2 KR when I really got on it....No evidnece of that anymore with this pump.
I do notice the fuel pump gauge sweeps alot faster than before. I dont knotice a "seat of the pants' increase --which I didnt expect but the operation seemed much smoother and moved the power band sooner.
I may have to lean it out a bit up top not sure still have trials but during cruising and idle the Block learn hovers at 128! I saw as low as 124 and high as 130. so no issues there. I have an unfortunate small exhaust leak at the crossover/header connection that I cant seem to seal so That is my next project but it doesnt seem to affect drivablity. (too much at least)
I'm happy.
I put about 40 miles on this thing so far.... Will keep you posted.
 

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Kick ass, I was talking about this pump as it's stronger than the Walbro and since it's a Denso, most likely a very dependable pump.

Great write up, I wish it didn't need the tweak for the tank lip but seems like everything else is pretty straight forward aside from the terminals. It's more expensive but until Walbro figures out what's up it's well worth it insurance wise.

This pump was $203 at Sparkplugs.com for those interested.
Sparkplugs.com - Cross Reference Search Results
 
The other nice thing is its whisper quiet.
I paid 185 + ship but I bought some other things and that brings the price down.
 
could you not mod/grind the float lever so you would not have notch the tank ?
 
You could but you cant take off too much of the metal because that is what supports one side of the fuel level arm.
And grinding was not an option when I had the whole assembly, you dont want all that stone grit and metal chips all over the fuel pump assembly.
Now if you have a hanger all by itself and you clean it up afterwards no problem... I had mine altogther when I discovered it wouldnt drop in.
The notch was no big deal I didnt cut anything I just bent the metal up slightly and bent it back when the pump went in.
 
You could but you cant take off too much of the metal because that is what supports one side of the fuel level arm.
And grinding was not an option when I had the whole assembly, you dont want all that stone grit and metal chips all over the fuel pump assembly.
Now if you have a hanger all by itself and you clean it up afterwards no problem... I had mine altogther when I discovered it wouldnt drop in.
The notch was no big deal I didnt cut anything I just bent the metal up slightly and bent it back when the pump went in.

got it ..thanks for info :) . so... over all this is a better pump than a Walbro 340 ? I'm thinking of a pump change this off season seeing that the one I have is over 7 years old .
 
Got this picture late. It is the sock position in relation to the float.
 

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The Denso is a stronger pump than the Walbro and so far it's not causing mad chaos for Supra owners running 1, 2 or 3 of them. :eek:
 
Steve,
Where did you buy this pump? The install is pretty straight foward?? just do the notch in the tank and thats all?
And 2 clamps to hold the pump?
 
Steve,
Where did you buy this pump?
The Denso website linked to Sparkplugs.com as their authorized distributor.

The install is pretty straight foward?? just do the notch in the tank and thats all?
Yep!


And 2 clamps to hold the pump?
Yep!
Dont forget the 2 little nuts for the POS & NEG terminals and either ring or spade electrical connectors.


In the near future I might add heavier wiring from the pump to the hotwire, bypassing the factory hanger harness wiring.
 
280 lph supra pump

Now all we need is someone to build a double pump hanger for this pump or modify the double pump hangers to accomadate the size of both pumps.Nice thread,I'm thinking of getting one myself.:)
 
...........I used two stainless worm gear clamps to secure the pump to the hanger. ..........

I am getting ready to do this at the advice from JDSfastGN a few weeks back.
Where did you get the SS clamps from?

Nice write-up and thanks for sharing. :cool:
 
Sounds like with a Boost-A-Pump this could be a really nice setup for a street car.
 
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