A/C compressor Good or Bad ?
- Thread starter stugots
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TURBOTWIN2
ASE CMAT L1
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You'll need a set of A/C gauges, an air compressor and brass fitting and air hose nipple to adapt the center (yellow) hose on the gauge set to the compressed air. Put about 100 lbs. psi air in the system and then run the A/C. You be looking for about 225 on the high side and 30 on the low side. If it'll do that, it'll blow cold. You can also leave the gauges on overnite to check for leaks, it should not lose pressure. HTH.
If you add air to your system you need to pull a good vacuum before charging the system. Moisture is the enemy of a refrigeration system. If the system has been opened it should be evacuated (vacuum) anyway. If it still has some R134a you could probably would be better off picking up one off those quickcharge kit from an autoparts store and try it with refrigerant in it. Unless you think the comp is bad
101prf said:
You do not want to use compressed air as previously mentioned because of moisture contamination if using one of those tire inflators. If you have a compressor with a tank the air tank usually will contain water and then you will blow that moisture laden air and water droplets into your a/c system
. Then you may have a real mess on your hands 
. To do it right it the system is completely empty is add some refrigerant as a trace gas and dry nitrogen to finish pressurization to at least 100 psi. The trace gas will set off a leak detector. Find and fix all leaks, evacuate and recharge the system. Unless you are or know an a/c mechanic you will not have nor will you want to buy all the equipment necessary to do it right. These compressors usually don't go bad unless they seize up, won't pump anymore or the seal leaks. You were probably low on or out of gas due to a leak. You need to find an a/c mechanic you trust and stop putting compressed air in the system.
He's right, your going to need pull a good vacuum to remove any moisture. Polyester Oil is very hydroscopic and holds on to moisture. A good vacuum pump will cost you more than it will cost to have the system evacuated and charged by a local mechanic. If it hasn't been converted from R-12 yet than the oil is mineral oil and will need to be changed anyway. If you do have access to a vacuum pump you should remove the comp and acumulator, drain and replace the oil (it's easier than trying to remove moisture from oil), evacuate and recharge-all after repairing leak of course.
Now the point of removing Moisture is two things- the first is freezing in the system, if it freezes at the metering device it will cause a restriction and you get no a/c- this would be intermittent because it will melt with the system off.
The second is Acid- moisture with heat in a refrigeration system will create acid which is easy to see what that will do to the system components.
I hate to bring bad news but change the oil,fix the leak and bring it to local shop you trust and your in good shape.
A good vacuum pump will cost you more than it will cost to have the system evacuated and charged by a local mechanic. If it hasn't been converted from R-12 yet than the oil is mineral oil and will need to be changed anyway. If you do have access to a vacuum pump you should remove the comp and acumulator, drain and replace the oil (it's easier than trying to remove moisture from oil), evacuate and recharge-all after repairing leak of course.Now the point of removing Moisture is two things- the first is freezing in the system, if it freezes at the metering device it will cause a restriction and you get no a/c- this would be intermittent because it will melt with the system off.
The second is Acid- moisture with heat in a refrigeration system will create acid which is easy to see what that will do to the system components.I hate to bring bad news but change the oil,fix the leak and bring it to local shop you trust and your in good shape.
