AC leak now no compressor -134a

[williamsGN]

Had a leak develop in the AC line seal. So I fixed it now the compressor won't kick in. I went to pick up the auto store special with the 134 can with the pressure gauge on top. Its says compressor must be cycling while you put in the freon. Obviously isn't happening since mine isn't running. What can I do or should I take it into the shop for evac/recharge ?

 

[Red Regal T]

You can disconnect the pressure switch plug on the drier and jump the connections in the plug with a cotter pin. This will make the compressor engage so you put in the three cans your system needs.

 

[aminga]

If you've had a leak there is air in the system. It needs to be vacuumed down

 

[Red Regal T]

Not really.

 

[HillbillyRacing]

a/c leak

if you had the a/c system open to repair your leak it is best to pull a vacum not saying it wont work without but you do have air in system because you had it open it will work at its best performance if the system is evacuated in my op.mike

 

[Red Regal T]

not saying it wont work

Yes .. it will work, without a hitch. But .. I don't have a vacuum pump. Must I go to a shop and donate to their bottom line, or should I just charge my system and enjoy my cold air?

 

[HillbillyRacing]

your pressure readings will just run higher with the air in the system and not cool as well plus you leave moisture in system. you can buy an air pump that hooks to a air comp for about 25-30 bucks or rent one from orielly avanced ect for free.and if you pull a vacum you shouldnt have to cross out the low pressure switch

 

[charlief1]

Actually, without vacuuming the system down you loose efficency as well as contaminate the R-134. Air in the system will combine with the R-134 and create an acid compound which will destroy the metal parts. Evap cores, accumulators, and compressors will suffer in the long run. You can rent a vacuum pump from most Auto Zones to suck the system down, but you'll need to buy the guage set to use it.

 

[williamsGN]

I'm not sure if any air did get into the system, there is still pressure released when you hit the valve pin on the dryer. The hard line above the radiator started hissing where it goes into the connector which starts the flexible line when I was moving lines around while reinstalling the motor. JB Weld fix, no more hiss, but I'm guessing I lost enough freon so the compressor won't engage anymore. Would I have gotten air in the system under these conditions ?

 

[gunslinger]

Vacuuming an A/C system isn't so much about removing air as it is about removing moisture. Like Charlie said, moisture combined with refrigerant and oil makes for an acidic environment.

 

[83ttypecooled]

HI,
You are in for another leak with a JB weld fix. The stuff is great, but has it's limits. R134a is much more permeable than R12 was. The condensor,evaporator,hoses and compressor on 134a systems are much tougher than the 12 stuff. Hoses are composite, with a nylon sleeve inside(barrier hose). The aluminum is better, and the lines will take more abuse, because they are designed for higher pressures and temperatures. I digress. Conversion can be very successful, but our cars were designed for R12. At very least, change the compressor hose assembly,which will be barrier hose, and the accumulator and orifice. Use PAG 150 oil, and cut the system charge down to 85 % of R12. Last, evacuate the system. Your R4 compressor is very tough, but not invulnerable. These suggestions should allow it to last a while with it's new blood supply.

 

[Red Regal T]

Vacuuming an A/C system isn't so much about removing air as it is about removing moisture. Like Charlie said, moisture combined with refrigerant and oil makes for an acidic environment.

And this does what? I'll answer ..... NOTHING!

 

[gunslinger]

And this does what? I'll answer ..... NOTHING!

Really...nothing??

Why don't you enlighten us. In what universe is aluminum and rubber impervious to the effects of acid?? whatever

 

[Red Regal T]

It has a very serious effect on anal people.

 

[charlief1]

I was gonna say when you get your Master ASE cert and open your shop tell your customers you can do AC work really cheap. LOL

 

[Red Regal T]

I know all about "mechanix" who work at local shops. We hear stories posted on TB.com all the time. Thanks, but no thanks. I'm not sure how many years the AC on my GN is going to have to work before you realize that all this extra BS is just that. BS. Here you have a guy fixing hard lines with JB Weld. Obviously, he just wants his air to work. He doesn't want to go to his local den of thieves to sabotage his AC system. .....LOL of course.

 

[williamsGN]

To test the compressor which of the three vertical pins on the switch should I jump ?

I know JB weld is half a$$ fix, but it is the little seal that goes around the hard lines where they go into the crimped flex hose. It only hissed when I had the compressor moved out of the way while reinstalling the motor. With everything in place you can move the hose around, no leak. Pressure at the dryer still and I figured it just lost a bit of freon, enough to trip the pressure switch. Very limited knowledge of AC, but I don't understand how air got into the system, it is sealed now holding freon pressure. New compressor, dryer, orifice, evacuated and recharged to 134 specs. 2 yrs ago at a shop I've used before.

 

[charlief1]

Since the system is sealed you you should just be able to use a set of guages and determine how much R-134 you need to add. If the seal at the crimped line is leaking then you need to keep an eye on it. It will probibly be an issue down the line. no pun intended.

 

[williamsGN]

thanks, can you tell me which of the pins to jump so I can get the compressor running. Again, being cheap, is the 134a with the gauge on top of the can from AZ, Pep Boys suitable ?

 

[charlief1]

The low side cut off is on the accumulator. It has 2 wires and you just take it loose and short the two together with paper clip or wire jumper. This will turn the compressor on.