all kinds of problems

[JDSfastGN]

Well when it rains it pours, sorry if this gets lengthy guys. I just got done installing my new motor and drove it back into town today from my farm where i put it in. (70 miles) It ran great the whole way. I got a qucik SES light that was a code 13, or bad 02 sensor. I'm running a denso lead proof, but had about 50 gallons of race gas through it and i guess it gave up the ghost, 02s would read 0 and crosscounts barely moved. I also was concerned about my BLMs and integrator, both of which were pegged at 150. I had an old delco (that had seen some race gas but never through a code) on there and my BLMs dropped to 134 and int was 128 but the sensor was lazy as well. Well this is where it gets weird, im betting the problem is unrelated, but I was driving and it quit on me a few times upon decel (thought it was IAC) but restarted fine. Then after the third time it quit it began to miss and pop badley out of the exhaust(felt a lot like a intercooler hose came off), i limped it almost to my house and it died and wouldn't restart. I noticed that with the key off, i had tach lights and boost lights doing random things and for a second my OTC read a code 42, or ignition EST circuit failure. (But when i eventually got it home and double checked my code, it showed no error codes) It finally restarted after 5 mins of trying and it ran all the way to my house(couple blocks). It had smelled pretty rich, and i was expecting the plugs to be fouled, but they are not bad. I ohmed the coil and got 13.7 across the board( pretty high)
I orded a new denso 02, and i have checked my chip and cal pak for proper seating. Is it most likely a bad coil or module? Any body else had a similar experience? Thanks guys I also noticed that when under a small load with the delco o2 sensor, the blms would be normal but under load it would peg 150 and the car would kinda jerk and bog. I'm sure its just a expensive module or coil, but I would just like to get other opinions.

 

[turbov6joe]

Check to see if the interuptor ring on the cam sensor is able to move because of a broken shear pin that holds it in place. If it can spin with a little help then your injector timing is all out of whack. Your problem sounds very similiar to mine when the shear pin broke.

 

[JDSfastGN]

I've had my pin shear as well but I have oil pressure still, and it now starts fine, i will double check though just in case though, thanks

 

[turbov6joe]

Just because the shear pin breaks doesn't mean you'll loose oil pressure....has nothing to do with it. The ring does nothing more than tell the ECM when to fire the squirters and in what order. The oil pump drive is attached to the cam sensor by some seriously thick metal parts...never heard of that thing breaking.

 

[JDSfastGN]

on my old sensor the cam sensors roll pin broke and the gear fell off into the oil pump. I guess I was confused which pin you were talking about, when i get back into town ill have to check out the cam sensor itself. thanks

 

[TurboJim]

I had a module fail in a similar way. Tach would go nuts just sitting at idle

Also check pos batt cable routing.

Jim

 

[bruce]

Pull a couple plugs and see if it was just running toooo rich.
If they're really bad toss a new set in.

If it was running rich, install a new O2 sensor, reset the computer, and drive it around to relearn the BLs, and IAC.

After a 100 miles or so recheck the min idle speed setting and IAC.

 

[JDSfastGN]

well i got it all sorted out, the large cluster of grounds were loose on the back of the passenger head, i guess the bolt just back off during the ride home, it runs awesome now. Thanks guys

 

[wlaukaitis]

Isn't it great when it is something simple/cheap/stupid?