Alternator upgrade

J

JP112_89

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 16, 2008
Hi, wanting to pick your brains on a Alternator upgrade. With mine being the factory alternator, do not want to run into any issues... Not using a volt booster

Here's a few alternators I'm looking at.

Powermaster 47864 looks like a good upgrade.

Kirbans 200 amp alternator with factory pulley.

DB electrical for the Buicks

Or should I take my factory one to a reputable rebuild and let them do it.

Money is not an issue, just do not want to run into any charging issues.

Thanks guys
 
I have an alternator/starter rebuilder the next town over that have a 24 hour return time. They can bump the amps up in an alternator if asked. Never seen the need to order one and have to wait.
 
JP112_89 said:
Hi, wanting to pick your brains on a Alternator upgrade. With mine being the factory alternator, do not want to run into any issues... Not using a volt booster................
Click to expand...

Lots of Buick turbo stuff is in my brain for picking, just takes a while to get to the proper info!

With you saying no volt booster, I would assume minimal performance parts are on the car?

The factory alternator is fine for most applications, we use them for 9 sec. builds and better.

For ~$120 you can buy a lifetime unit from your local auto parts chain store. Just be sure you purchase one with a stock size pulley, not a smaller one which they are now using. Just have the store swap the stock pulley if needed.
 
Hi Nick,
Nick Micale said:
With you saying no volt booster, I would assume minimal performance parts are on the car?

.
Click to expand...

Hi Nick, I am pulling 13.8/13.9 volts at wot. Just I have a roller cam updated valve train bigger turbo, fuel system 9/11. Wiring was upgraded in and out when I replaced the pump. Tuned to 26/27# boost with C12 108 octane.

Okay Nick.
 
Where/how are you measuring voltage, Scanmaster or Powerlogger? The SM will usually be 1/2 volt less than at the alternator.

At your boost and RPM, I would add about 5 psi base pressure as I prefer more fuel at the injector to be safe, and do not trust gauges?
 
FWIW I am running Powermasters 170 amp. I was'nt happy with the surge when the dual fans kicked on during the summer/AC on. That has been eliminated completely.
Of course it could've been my original was getting tired after 30 years but I'm very happy with my upgrade.
 
Go to AZ and get a alt for a 95 Impala it’s a 140amp with a lifetime warranty for like $130 bolts right in
 
robertf said:
FWIW I am running Powermasters 170 amp. I was'nt happy with the surge when the dual fans kicked on during the summer/AC on. That has been eliminated completely.
Of course it could've been my original was getting tired after 30 years but I'm very happy with my upgrade.
Click to expand...

Do you have the part number by any chance?
 
Unless u r running some massive system plus some the140amp is more then enough for a modified Gn . I’ve been runing one for years and if anything messes up with it u just roll up and swap it out . Just my opinion btw
 
The best alternator upgrade is to re-wire the 4 terminal connector to the alternator. Stock it has the single brown wire that goes to the dash light. Lose that and the alternator stops charging. So, grab another pigtail that has at least three wires/connections: the S, F, and L terminals (letters are molded into the connector body).

The L terminal stays the same, it is the brown wire going to the dash light.
The F terminal, wire it to a PNK/BLK wire that is hot at key-on. Can get it from the EGR solenoid or wastegate connector (among other areas).
The S terminal, grab either of the large feed wires that used to go to the fan delay relay, or the PowerMaster. These wires go directly to the starter power and then on to the battery.

Powering the F terminal will cause the alternator to charge even if the dash lamp feed is lost. This corrects the most common cause of no charge from the alternator.

Connecting the S terminal will cause the alternator to sense the vehicle voltage at the starter power feed. This makes up for the voltage drop between the alternator and that point. Will typically see at least a 0.5 volt increase in overall system voltage.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Nick Micale said:
Where/how are you measuring voltage, Scanmaster or Powerlogger? The SM will usually be 1/2 volt less than at the alternator.

At your boost and RPM, I would add about 5 psi base pressure as I prefer more fuel at the injector to be safe, and do not trust gauges?
Click to expand...
Your post had me wondering about my alternator as well My Powerlogger shows 12.5-12.7 on a 1/4 mile pass,and before and after the pass 13.1-13.4 ,fan off during the pass,fan back on at end of pass. My volt meter shows 14.8 at battery and alternator, hood up at idle with a stock alternator .I too thought about a upgrade,car sees vary little drive time about equal track time as road time ,so I keep it hooked to a battery tender and the battery is 3 years old.
 
RmvBfrFlght said:
The best alternator upgrade is to re-wire the 4 terminal connector to the alternator. Stock it has the single brown wire that goes to the dash light. Lose that and the alternator stops charging. So, grab another pigtail that has at least three wires/connections: the S, F, and L terminals (letters are molded into the connector body).

The L terminal stays the same, it is the brown wire going to the dash light.
The F terminal, wire it to a PNK/BLK wire that is hot at key-on. Can get it from the EGR solenoid or wastegate connector (among other areas).
The S terminal, grab either of the large feed wires that used to go to the fan delay relay, or the PowerMaster. These wires go directly to the starter power and then on to the battery.

Powering the F terminal will cause the alternator to charge even if the dash lamp feed is lost. This corrects the most common cause of no charge from the alternator.

Connecting the S terminal will cause the alternator to sense the vehicle voltage at the starter power feed. This makes up for the voltage drop between the alternator and that point. Will typically see at least a 0.5 volt increase in overall system voltage.

RemoveBeforeFlight
Click to expand...
Is this the same approach as the Casper's field fix? Edit. Or the V-plus voltage booster kit?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
SpeedRacerX said:
Is this the same approach as the Casper's field fix? Edit. Or the V-plus voltage booster kit?
Click to expand...

Wiring the F (Field) terminal to IGN+ switched is the same as Casper's field fix. The V-plus volt booster is entirely different from what I posted.

Wiring the S (Sense) terminal of the alternator changes the point in the electrical system where the voltage regulator senses the voltage. Since the voltage at the starter is going to be lower then what the alternator otherwise sees, causes it to bump up the voltage.

This produces a higher and more stable voltage across the entire vehicle.

The changes I listed were also done with other GM vehicles, by GM.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
RmvBfrFlght said:
Wiring the F (Field) terminal to IGN+ switched is the same as Casper's field fix. The V-plus volt booster is entirely different from what I posted.
Wiring the S (Sense) terminal of the alternator changes the point in the electrical system where the voltage regulator senses the voltage. Since the voltage at the starter is going to be lower then what the alternator otherwise sees, causes it to bump up the voltage.
This produces a higher and more stable voltage across the entire vehicle.
The changes I listed were also done with other GM vehicles, by GM.
RemoveBeforeFlight
Click to expand...

I did this on both of my turbo cars a few years ago. On cold startup my voltage is in the 14.2-14.5V range. After the car is warm the voltage stays in the 13.7-13.8V range no matter how many electrical accessories are running. I also moved the power feed lines off of the starter and moved them to a terminal block mounted on the firewall. I then ran a #8 gauge wire from the alternator to the terminal block and another #4 gauge wire from the terminal block to the battery. This eliminated the wire running under the front of the motor from the alternator to the battery.
 
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