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Aluminum Radiators ??????

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jmendlik

Active Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2001
Messages
792
Whats' the difference between these besides price?? They all have both oil/trans coolers in them and claim "drop in replacement"

PTS Extreme $499
Gbody $450
Mark Huffman $399
ArizonaGN $450


Whats the difference between these?


JM
 
vendors as fabricators/builders vs. vendors as re-sellers

A radiator is fabricated and built by a vendor (actually welded at his shop). That same radiator is also sold by a second vendor either with or without private label. And maybe distributed to yet other vendors for re-sale as well. In our community, we have vendors who are fabricators/builders and we have vendors who are re-sellers (like wholesale distributors). There is nothing wrong with either.

contact each of the four vendors you listed and ask them about their product. also consider which vendor is closer to you. shipping costs more these days so you maybe do not want to pay to ship it across the country.
 
Whats' the difference between these besides price?? They all have both oil/trans coolers in them and claim "drop in replacement"

PTS Extreme $499
Gbody $450
Mark Huffman $399
ArizonaGN $450


Whats the difference between these?


JM

Less than $100.00. :p

Sorry, couldn't resist. :biggrin:

Seriously, probably all great products. Anthony P has some great points. All of the names are well known. Not sure if all of them support the board or not but you probably won't be disappointed in any of them.
 
Just wanted to say that the pst radiator is awesome in terms of cooling, even behind my cotton front mount. But, it didnt just drop in. I had to grind the top to get the support cover back on. Its an early design so maybe the issue has been addressed.
 
Just wanted to say that the pst radiator is awesome in terms of cooling, even behind my cotton front mount. But, it didnt just drop in. I had to grind the top to get the support cover back on. Its an early design so maybe the issue has been addressed.
It's bigger and will require minor fabbing. New or old design won't change that. It's the best one out there imo. I'm runnen an RJC BIG FMIC so proper cooling was a must.
 
Aluminum radiator

Make sure you have decided what your application is before you buy. The stock Grand National and TurboRegals came with BOTH oil cooler and transmission coolers built into the radiator. If you are going to go with an external oil cooler and transmission cooler, then just get a plain aluminum radiator, don't pay extra for any cooler capabililty. If using one or the other, just get the radiator with whatever cooler you plan to use. If keeping stock, go with the radiator that has both coolers. My aluminum radiator was from Brian, of GBODYPARTS.COM and it fit just fine in my '87 Grand National. I'm using both transmission and oil coolers located in the radiator. I'm very happy with it...no modifications were needed. Of course, my GN is not the firey, balls out, outragious machine that most guys here on the forum run. Just a little ol' Grand National to drive. The fast ones, really fast ones, use external coolers and for very good reasons.

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
I went to an external trans cooler with a fan/t-stat when I put in a f-body rad. I can barely get the trans temp to clime above 170 even on the brake. Never had the brake or gauge on the factory setup but I have a hard time believing it would do as good a job. As for the OP's question I would call the vendors and ask for the specs (tube width, fin count, core size ect.) on the radiators.
 
Got my aluminum radiator from Anderson Performance.

IMHO, it doesn't pay to install coolers in the rad. Once you trash a engine and/or trans, the cooler should be replaced regardless. Plus, you won't be heating up the coolant with the heat from the engine oil/trans fluid.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Got my aluminum radiator from Anderson Performance.

IMHO, it doesn't pay to install coolers in the rad. Once you trash a engine and/or trans, the cooler should be replaced regardless. Plus, you won't be heating up the coolant with the heat from the engine oil/trans fluid.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

That's the theory I am going with. Running one of our radiators but not going to run the oil OR trans coolers in them, all plugged off. Going with a B&M trans cooler with the built in fan. Finished mounting it up today.
 
I went to an external trans cooler with a fan/t-stat when I put in a f-body rad. I can barely get the trans temp to clime above 170 even on the brake. Never had the brake or gauge on the factory setup but I have a hard time believing it would do as good a job.
X2

I done pretty much the same thing and so far and I am glad I done the switch too. My temps are so low now I may have to step up to a 170* T-Stat.. :eek:


SW.
 
This is a good topic. I'm close to biting the bullet on an alum. rad myself. I don't plan on using internal coolers. I had a 4 core stock looking unit in my last GN that worked very well. How about a 4 core aluminum unit? Any advice before I throw away my $$? Vendors, if you want to push your radiator on me, nows the time.
 
This is a good topic. I'm close to biting the bullet on an alum. rad myself. I don't plan on using internal coolers. I had a 4 core stock looking unit in my last GN that worked very well. How about a 4 core aluminum unit? Any advice before I throw away my $$? Vendors, if you want to push your radiator on me, nows the time.

a 4 core aluminum is not optimal. The advantage of aluminum is that u can run bigger rows and flow more water at a faster rate. Aluminum actually transfers heat worse than copper/brass but the solder on copper units does not transfer heat well. The rows on a copper unit can only be so big before they become to weak to take the pressure.
 
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