Whelp I finally did it after 3 years of owning the car. Not too bad from some of the story's I heard. Made a pass at the track two weeks ago and blew a HG. Ran 11.68 @115 which isn't anything crazy, so I knew the tune was off when she blew with a pretty easy time for the mods I have. Here are some pictures of the tear down tonight. Those valves make me cringe. No power logger as of yet but it's on the list of things to get before I make any more pulls down the 1320'. Hoping you guys can help me out and help me dial this car into a "reliable" sub 11.5 car.
Another non tuned car blowing a HG
- Thread starter Dreamn4GN
- Start date
turbofrank
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2002
Sooner or late good luck
After you clean and replace things.make sure you have fuel pressure,with 60lb inj and methanol with good pumps and a proper tune more to the rich side.i prefer a fuel cushion.
Yeah I like cushions. Methanol pump is about a year old from a rebuild. Fuel pump is a walboro 255 that I replaced 3 years ago on the initial spring cleaning. I'm wondering if I'm just lean or is it possible an injector issue?
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
Making sure these these engines have a fuel system that's up to snuff...is absolutely paramount. PL is a necessity as well. My own car has NEW 80 lb injectors...NEW fuel pump once a year...a hotwire kit for the pump and injectors...and a Caspers V Plus volt booster. I also run race gas...as I'm afraid of an alky pump going weak during a run. My own engine starts seeing KR in the low 750's MV...so I keep them above that for low/high gear fueling.
I run fp gauges for both the gas and the meth as guessing gets expensive.i have seen the walboros the older ones start to go away where the meth was saving the motor.
I run fp gauges for both the gas and the meth as guessing gets expensive.i have seen the walboros the older ones start to go away where the meth was saving the motor.
ttypewhite
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
When it's back together, put it on the dyno first before throwing the screws to it. No need to duplicate the tragedy. Putting it back together won't fix your tune. Talk to Eric at Turbotweak and get him to square you up with a tune. His chip is also adjustable through the scanmaster so you can add or subtract fuel from your WOT curve if it's not right.
Might have to throw in a new fuel pump just to be safe. The car does have the Hotwire kit. Injectors we're new flow matched 60's. I'm not going to be doing anything other than cruising until I get everything I need to monitor and systems up to par.
I plan on getting the tune correct. I'll contact Eric today and see what we can do. Would messing with my MAF translator settings help? Should I add more fuel at WOT? Or should I just stick with trying to get Eric to get me a tune? Thanks I appreciate the responses. Id like to be able to make some 11 second passes without having to pull the car back on the trailer.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
Erics 5.7 chip requires the dip switches set on on on off...and be sure you have the base knob set correctly for your MAF.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
Your base numbers on your SM have to be bang on...and pay particular attention to your idle BLM's. Fuel pressure has to rise 1 for 1 with boost. With your static fuel pressure at 43 you should see...for example...say 20 lbs of boost....your fuel pressure should be a minimum of 63 psi. Get yourself an in car fuel pressure gauge.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
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Have the hood mounted gauge. Fuel pressure is good and I've seen it at 65lbs at WOT. Base numbers on the MAF are correct. Scan master numbers are good. Blm's do need some adjustment. I'll be sure to run through everything and make sure all the base settings are good. And go from there.
marleyskater420
still needs to learn
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2004
For the cost of $209 I would strongly recommend getting a wideband. I prefer the LC-2 from Innovate Motorsports as it comes with a digital gauge and has an output to connect to a powerlogger/datalogger.
With a WB you will have a much more accurate account of your AFR, removing the slow sampling rate that the stock O2 sensor has.
Eric also makes a WB chip, and if you have a powerlogger you can hook the WB to it and set a "target" AFR and the chip will auto-correct your AFR for you if it sees the AFR go leaner/fatter than what you set the target AFR to. Pretty awesome feature that gives you piece of mind in case something goes south during a run,it will hopefully help to prevent failure or at least minimize any damage by making sure the motor never goes too lean.
With a WB you will have a much more accurate account of your AFR, removing the slow sampling rate that the stock O2 sensor has.
Eric also makes a WB chip, and if you have a powerlogger you can hook the WB to it and set a "target" AFR and the chip will auto-correct your AFR for you if it sees the AFR go leaner/fatter than what you set the target AFR to. Pretty awesome feature that gives you piece of mind in case something goes south during a run,it will hopefully help to prevent failure or at least minimize any damage by making sure the motor never goes too lean.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
You say this is a "non-tuned" issue which caused the blown head gasket, but the reality of this incident is the fuel mixture was not correct for the HP being developed?
Especially with alky injection, it takes experience and knowledge to make HP w/o detonation and/or pre-ignition.
The main purpose of alky injection is to cool the charge in the combustion chamber, but you must have enough fuel as well to support the HP level, or bad things happen.
My point is you must have an adequate fuel supply mechanically, as well as the electronics and program supplying enough fuel entering by the injector.
Like was said above, a chassis dyno will allow real-time data as HP increases to show the mixture is proper.
An option to the dyno is a Powerlogger. It may take many road tests with you and a buddy to watch real-time data which you can also record.
There are 2 methods to tune, run it until it breaks, or a ton of data to get your SPECIFIC tune done right!
Especially with alky injection, it takes experience and knowledge to make HP w/o detonation and/or pre-ignition.
The main purpose of alky injection is to cool the charge in the combustion chamber, but you must have enough fuel as well to support the HP level, or bad things happen.
My point is you must have an adequate fuel supply mechanically, as well as the electronics and program supplying enough fuel entering by the injector.
Like was said above, a chassis dyno will allow real-time data as HP increases to show the mixture is proper.
An option to the dyno is a Powerlogger. It may take many road tests with you and a buddy to watch real-time data which you can also record.
There are 2 methods to tune, run it until it breaks, or a ton of data to get your SPECIFIC tune done right!
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
the op should confirm base spark timing and find out how much timing it was running and prob run less than that.
The wide band and knock gauge will be getting added to the mix. I need to dig into the tuning aspects of the cars. I ain't trying to replace hg's anytime soon.
23 but I think she crept to 25 ish at the top of 3rd. So I have to address my creep issue.
