anti theft problem

[earlbrown]

Is this enough voltage drop to require that the chip kill the car?

That BS feature has completely killed my car. Is the chip acting up or is it doing it's job?

 

[TurboBob]

send me a PM

Bob

 

[BobbyBuick]

if it droppes below 10V no go

 

[earlbrown]

if it droppes below 10V no go

Even for only a hundred milliseconds?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Why is voltage dropping out? That's not the chips fault....

Rick

 

[TurboDave]

In computer parlance, a few milliseconds is a very VERY long time!!
1. Why is your voltage dropping that low?
2. Have you talked/PM'd to Bob?
3. Don't blame the chip for a problem the car has.

 

[earlbrown]

Beats me. The milliseconds thing is a guesstimate. Keep in mind I'm getting that data from the same piece of equipment that's having the problem. I didn't have a scope on the actual power wire.
That being said when I took the battery out of my Blazer and put it in the GN, it kept the preset channels on the radio during the battery swap (eliminating the battery as a potential candidate). If a cap in the radio can let it remember the presets, I'd like to think my chip could remember that I'm not stealing my own car. Plus it remembers that it's set for lean cruise so it's not going completely blank. It just won't let the car run.

I fully blame the chip. The car cranks over like gang busters and starts just fine. It even fires right up with the chip out. It just runs a little rich off the calpack with 60's!! Bob sent me a PL screen of his car starting and it dropped down for much much longer before returning to full voltage.

Once the antitheft is gone I'll be able to move the car under it's own power for a change. I might even drive it to town and turn it off.

 

[earlbrown]

Why is voltage dropping out? That's not the chips fault....

Rick

That drop is when the starter first hits. Here's a log that drops much longer than mine yet still runs....

I even hooked another car up the the GN with some heavy duty cables and took apart the weather pack connector and tied it to the positive connection making sure it wasn't something odd down at the crimp joint. Still couldn't get it to stay running.

 

[Jerryl]

Hi Earl. If anyone can figure this out, it will be you.

Having said that . . . I recently had a very similar issue. Pretty sure mine turned out to be the T+. (been raining for the past 2 weekends. ) You probably don't have one and even if you did, chances are that's not your issue. Just sharing my experience.

Having said that, I like the AT feature especially the valet.
Once I figure out how to get it out of valet mode, I will be able to do a little testing. Lol.

 

[earlbrown]

No. I've just got the plain no nonsence translator. These cars can be screwy enough as it is. No reason to overcomplicate when you don't have to. I've read some horror stories about the T+.

A different chip will solve the problem. My battery's good, the cables are good, the ends of the fuseable links are good and the starter is a gear reduction LT4 unit. I'm only trying to spin a little V6. This shouldn't be rocket science.

 

[TurboDave]

That drop is when the starter first hits. Here's a log that drops much longer than mine yet still runs....

I even hooked another car up the the GN with some heavy duty cables and took apart the weather pack connector and tied it to the positive connection making sure it wasn't something odd down at the crimp joint. Still couldn't get it to stay running.

Earl, it's not how long it drops, it's how deep it drops. Pulling the cranking voltage below 9 volts for any length of time is what's causing the issue, and the usual culprit is a battery going weak, or a starter that's starting to draw too much amperage.

 

[earlbrown]

That's what I theorized too.

That's why I put a different known good battery in the GN, then hooked up my Blazer to fortify it and double up on the batteries. The 2nd battery has no problem cranking my 454BBC jetboat engine, so I know it has the stones to spin a low compression V6. The starter is an LT4 gear reduction unit. I've never even heard it bog down.

I don't put the graph I posted to be 100% accurate as the offending componet is the thing responsible for sending the data. Plus if the voltage drop was enough to legitimately reset the chip, the lean cruise setting should have disappeared too.

 

[turbo nasty]

Mine was doing the same thing and I chased it for months, it would randomly stall or almost stall and or go into anti theft mode.
Turned out to be the Orange wire by the battery for the ecm feed. The lil black fusible link connection right dead up against the black plastic block the wires were broken inside. Out side insulation felt fine but if you pulled on the wire felt it you could tell.

 

[Jerryl]

Turbobob, just send you a pm.

 

[earlbrown]

Mine was doing the same thing and I chased it for months, it would randomly stall or almost stall and or go into anti theft mode.
Turned out to be the Orange wire by the battery for the ecm feed. The lil black fusible link connection right dead up against the black plastic block the wires were broken inside. Out side insulation felt fine but if you pulled on the wire felt it you could tell.

I chased that rabbit too. I soldered new ring terminals on the ends of the fueseable links, and when I had my blazer hooked to the GN I used a weatherpack tool to expose the orange wires contacts and jump that wire directly to the meaty positive post I assembled.


....on the upside I built a really cool meaty 'side post battery stud kit' that works much better than the stock cable fasteners.

 

[INEEDAGN]

So hypothetically, what if it was a ground issue? Where does the ecm get its ground? My guess would be the back of the head. If your ground to the engine is marginal that would make an additional voltage drop during cranking no matter how much battery you have.

Just thinking out loud. Btw I love my antitheft in the extender. Tfw guys call it the "rub your belly and pat your head" trick to get it to start and valet mode is nice for when others want to drive it.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[earlbrown]

Those grounds are on the rear intake bolt on my engine. And I've got redundant ground straps all over my car.

If it was a ground issue, it would happen more often than just when the starter first hits. That kind of thing would most likely cause all kinds of oddball quirky running conditions (when the car stays running that is).

You're the only person I've head of that actually uses the the antitheft on the chip. Most everybody I've talk to about it just puts it into 'convenience mode'.

 

[we4Mateo]

I use my anti theft and valet mode mode too. I only use convenience mode when I'm at the track After that, it goes right back to anti theft.

 

[INEEDAGN]

Those grounds are on the rear intake bolt on my engine. And I've got redundant ground straps all over my car.

If it was a ground issue, it would happen more often than just when the starter first hits. That kind of thing would most likely cause all kinds of oddball quirky running conditions (when the car stays running that is).

You're the only person I've head of that actually uses the the antitheft on the chip. Most everybody I've talk to about it just puts it into 'convenience mode'.

Once its running the alternator is doing all the work and is actually putting power back TO the battery therefore a bad neg. cable from battery to engine would ONLY show up during cranking or KOEO. I'm not saying I'm right I'm just saying i'd check that cable very closely or piggyback a second ground from battery to block even just for testing

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[earlbrown]

It's a good cable. If the battery to block cable was bad it would show itself all through the cranking process. Plus the alternator probably wouldn't last long without the battery there.