Any Helpful Tips, Im installing a FMIC RJC 315IC

qws2000

Active Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
I have a Precision (slic) that is coming out... I got the RJC 315 and it comes with no instructions. Is it really that easy... Any tips would be greatly appreciated...... Thanks AL
 
I'm starting mine this W/E, too. It would go easier with help, and is a lot easier if you remove the bumper. I removed the grill also.
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You need to remove this bracket from under the top , center of the header panel.
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I ran a drill thru the 2 top holes, as they were a little small for the included bolts
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Here's where an assistant comes in handy (also with the bumpers)



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Line up the top mounts and install the 2 top bolts.
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The 2 bottom self tapping screws go in easy.
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I need to do some other work (remove old trans cooler) before I install the pipes.
All in all a Super Easy job.
Much easier than suspension or exhaust work I usually do. :)


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Any tips would be greatly appreciated......
I did not take by bumper off , I reamed the top holes out some and get someone to help you slide it up cause its heavy as heck and then put the top bolts in , other than them sending me the wrong boots it was fairly easy , now I have to wait on the right silicon boots to come in:(
 
First off, thanks John for the great pictures... I did not get any bolts with mine? Looks like you have a lot of room with the bumper lost... Turbo T, you put yours in with out removing the bumper, What silcon boots??
 
Yep no bumper removal, silicon boots are the connectors for your pipes, I told them I had a stock tb and they sent me all 3 in boots.

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The bolts were loose in the box with the silicon hoses and clamps.
Look for a small box in with the pipes. If not, contact RJC, you're missing some parts.
 
HEY Chrgd or Turbo T or John Do you remember the size Bolts that go in the top of the intercooler????? Once again Jason and or crew forgot something in the box...
 
It's a 3/8x16 - 3/4" long, grade 8 flange head.
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I did my 325 without removing the bumper or grille. Remove the top bracket, drill the upper holes bigger, hand tighten/snug the upper 2 IC bolts, install/align all hoses/pipes and per Jason's recommendation I installed the two lower self tappers last. He said that leaving he bottom bolts till last will help with piping alignment.
 
Thanks guys, T Charged that info saved me from waiting till Monday to call Jason.....
 
I mounted the intercooler, but did not do the piping.... I still have the SLIC Precision hooked up. Any certain way to remove this unit??
 
i think the hardest thing for me was to slide the silicone hoses on the ends. but trust me use WD40 it will go alot smoother..trust me!!
 
Wd40 is a bad idea In my opinion. It will remain slick and possibly blow off. A trick I learned a whole ago was to use dish soap, it is slick when wet and as soon as it dries it will become very sticky.


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Dish soap is another good idea although I have never had any issues using WD40. Besides I only use enough to make it slide on and or remove it and it does not stay slic. But like I said I have never had a pipe blow off even immediately after boosting it at the track so its never been a bad idea for me.
 
For those with trans coolers and a FM, where did you mount the cooler. I plan on this FM to replace my stretch IC and am curious where you are mounting the coolers.
I'll do a search also to see what others have done
TIA
 
For those with trans coolers and a FM, where did you mount the cooler. I plan on this FM to replace my stretch IC and am curious where you are mounting the coolers.
I'll do a search also to see what others have done
TIA

I had a trans cooler mounted with hard lines between the rad support and bumper. It can be seen hanging under the newly mounted I/C. It will not fit in the same place with this longer I/C. I plan to mount a new one behind the bumper on the passenger side.
 
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