Anybody ever develope a knock after timing chain replacement?

[rb68rr]

Had a shop replace my timing chain about two weeks ago and now I have a rattling knock as the rpm's go up. Sounds like it's right behind the fan in the front of the motor. Almost a slapping type of knock. Not a steady knock. It rattles really bad when you go up to about 1800 rpm's. Any ideas? Almost sounds like a rod!!!!! Thanks, R.B. What Next??????

 

[Steve Wood]

You didn't put a tensioner on a double roller chain, by any chance?

 

[rb68rr]

No double roller just regular chain. It also doesn't do it when I first crank it up cold. Only after it warms up.

 

[Russ Merritt]

It happens on the way up? Probably is a rod. Does it do it when you reach the rpm, say 3000? Or just when you bring up the rpms?

 

[rb68rr]

It does it from idle all the way up and gets louder and more eratic.

 

[Russ Merritt]

How much oil pressure? It doesn't do it cold, that's the killer.

 

[rb68rr]

Sorry, don't have an oil pressure gauge. I did take one spark plug wire off at a time and didn't notice any change if that means anything.

 

[Zero Tolerance]

You may not want to hear this, but...
Mine did the same thing, and it was a rod bearing. If they failed to properly prime the oiling system (like me), it could cause severe damage (like mine).
Fortunately, at that time I had the money to re-do the motor.

 

[rb68rr]

I was wondering if the shop might have done something (like what?) wrong to make this happen. Of course they would never admit it. Is there any way to prove it was their fault? Dunno, just rambling and disapointed.

 

[rb68rr]

OK, if it is a rod knocking what all is involved in getting it running right again? Anybody want to guess what it might cost? Thanks, R.B.

 

[Otto J]

WHENEVER DOING A TIMING CHAIN ON THESE MOTORS, ALWAYS TAKE APART THE OIL PUMP AND PACK IT WITH GREASE TO AVOID DRY START UP. i have seen to many people not do this abd the motors (usually higher mileage ones) always start knock within a few days , just my expieiences
Otto

 

[salvageV6]

I'd first pull the cam sensor and get some light down there and try to see if the chain is loose or the tensioner is missing or something obvious.

If you can't see well in there then I'd go ahead and pull the front cover off and take a look.

I'd also get an oil pressure gauge on it ASAP and not drive it other than to check the pressure and put it in a good spot to be worked on.

 

[rb68rr]

Are you saying it may not be a rod? Wouldn't that be great? What should I be looking for oil pressure wise? What the oil pressure is cold and warmed up? What will be the dead giveaway?

 

[rb68rr]

Hey guys, I was just looking at the invoice from the timing chain job and noticed the parts list. 1 chain assembly, 2 sprockets and some gaskets and seals. Thats it!! Does this mean that they used the old tensioner and cam button? Could this be part of my problem? Crasping at straws here. Thanks, R.B.

 

[salvageV6]

My mechanic doesn't itemize the small parts he would just total it all up and put it under timing chain replacement.

So to find out what was done exactly you can ask them directly or start investigating on your own or with some of the Texas TR owners if any are in your area.

Sounds like you may need some help from a good TR mechanic for sure.

If you pull the cam sensor make sure you put it back in exactly as it came out and don't turn over the engine or anything.

Reset procedure is at gnttype.org if you happen to mess it up.

I'd try and look to see down the hole first.

 

[Jimn8or]

For piece of mind, sort of..., I'd ask your mechanics what type of petrolium jelly he used to pack the oil pump with. If he looks at you like he has a small piece of crap under his nose , while staring directly at the sun, you have your answer. He didn't pack the pump at all, and you have spun bearings due to oil starvation on start-up. Common lack of knowledge for non TR specific mechanics.
Good luck.
Jim

 

[HellOnWheels]

Ask him also was the car taken for a "test" drive after installing the timing chain. A lot of engines are ruined during these "test" drives, driven by people that have heard about how fast these turbo cars are want to find out for themselves.

HellOnWheels

 

[JDEstill]

Ah yes, the cause of my first rebuild. And the last time I let a mechanic touch my car. He did my timing chain, didn't prime the oil pump, and it started knocking immediately. Siezed up the next day. If I were you, I wouldn't drive it at all, I'd drain the oil and look for metal shavings. Go ahead and pull the pan too. If it is a bearing, you are just ruining your crank further if you keep driving on it, maybe to the point where it'll have to be replaced rather than turned.

John

 

[salvageV6]

I did one, and had another done by my mechanic.

No jelly at all used. Both times the pump was primed with a portable drill. Get the oil flowing and you are fine.

So you can investigate it, or talk all day about what might be wrong.

Doesn't sound good no matter what anyway. Nows a good time to learn to wrench especially if you want to save money on the rebuild.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by KLHAMMETT
WHENEVER DOING A TIMING CHAIN ON THESE MOTORS, ALWAYS TAKE APART THE OIL PUMP AND PACK IT WITH GREASE TO AVOID DRY START UP..........Otto

Agree with the "avoid dry start up", but if the car is an '86-7, no need to use grease or pack the pump.

Remove the top oil line at the radiator and fill it with oil. Even if it needs to be filled a couple of times, it will prime with a drill. Make sure the new filter is filled with oil before installing.

On the Buicks w/o an oil cooler, I have removed the bypass plug and packed the pump successfully that way rather than disturb a good, factory pump.