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Anything to improve holding power with stock setup

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MCH86GN

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
1,466
I currently have the stock setup. I was wondering if there are any improvements that can be made with just pads and rotors. Last summer I had H&R swaybar, upper and lower control arms installed. Now when I try and hold my car at the line, it simply pushes right through. With the brake to the floor the car moves forward at 1 or 2 lbs of boost. I used to be able to hold the car to 5PSI.
 
Do you have a line lock to keep from heating the rear brakes?

Regarding the rear brakes: use S-10 wheel cylinders and two long shoes instead of one long/one short.
 
Do you have a line lock to keep from heating the rear brakes?

Regarding the rear brakes: use S-10 wheel cylinders and two long shoes instead of one long/one short.

thats my setup. I can hold 15# of boost on the foot brake.
 
Do you have a line lock to keep from heating the rear brakes?

Regarding the rear brakes: use S-10 wheel cylinders and two long shoes instead of one long/one short.
No, but I plan on buying one from GNS and installing this summer. I have s10 rear wheel cylinders and a long and short shoe in the rear. I forgot to pull the e-brake when I was installing the rear wheel shoes and I couldn't fit long shoes on both sides.

I'm planning on building a solid mid 10s motor and if my brakes aren't holding up now, what I'm am going to do with 200 more hp going to the rear wheels. With all the work I have put it to, I have a lot more to build it to a solid low to mid 10s car.
 
thats my setup. I can hold 15# of boost on the foot brake.
Really, do you have performance rotors in the front? I will check my rotor thickness in the front. Unless the rotors are really worn down, I don't think it would make that much of a difference because the brakes are still going to clamp.
 
Maybe my powermaster is getting tired. In November of this year my car will have been on the road officially 30 years.
 
Really, do you have performance rotors in the front? I will check my rotor thickness in the front. Unless the rotors are really worn down, I don't think it would make that much of a difference because the brakes are still going to clamp.

My fronts are still the original 28+ year old hardware, except for the pads of course. Nothing special up front, it's the backs that have the most influence on holding power.
Contrary to popular belief, disk brakes SUCK at holding power. Disk brakes shine at stopping power and sustained stopping power. Drum brakes are the real stars at holding boost. Drums however suck at stopping power and sustained stopping power.

Get even a little bit of heat in the drums and they will loose almost all of their clamping power. That's why a line lock is so important if you're going to do any drag racing. The line lock allows you to do burn outs without imparting any heat into the rear brakes.

I doubt your powermaster is getting weak, they have great holding power. JUST GOTTA KEEP THOSE REAR DRUMS COOL.
 
I currently have the stock setup. I was wondering if there are any improvements that can be made with just pads and rotors. Last summer I had H&R swaybar, upper and lower control arms installed. Now when I try and hold my car at the line, it simply pushes right through. With the brake to the floor the car moves forward at 1 or 2 lbs of boost. I used to be able to hold the car to 5PSI.
s10 cylinders,good drums and good fluid in the powermaster using the ebrake should really hold the car on the line with boost.a line lock is a nice piece to have.
 
s10 cylinders,good drums and good fluid in the powermaster using the ebrake should really hold the car on the line with boost.a line lock is a nice piece to have.
I will be replacing the fluid this summer. I'm going to be replacing my brake line from the proportioning valve to the fronts. I had a local shop install brake lines and they installed braided steel lines from the proportioning valve, but the problem is that they rub constantly and eventually they will wear through. They charged me a pretty penny to install the braided steel lines. TurboDave231 pointed out that I should install aftermarket, but original routing brake line, for the front and even the rear. There is a company in MI that sales the replacements I need so I can connect them up to the brake hose pictures below. I will also replace the shoes in the rear and I will use the long shoes on both sides.
brakehose.jpg
 
I have read several posts that say to be careful during heavy (emergency) braking when using the S-10 with two long shows. Some people have had wheel lock.
 
Don't ever drive on wet pavement with s10 wheel cylinders.


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I have read several posts that say to be careful during heavy (emergency) braking when using the S-10 with two long shows. Some people have had wheel lock.
I've only did an ebrake launch once. I'm sure with practice I might be able to get a better time, but I only netted 0.04s better. 11.92 w/ebrake and 11.96 without. My best run was off a footbrake, 11.88. Although with the ebrake, I trapped at my highest speed of 116mph. If I get that serious, when my transmission is rebuild I have a trans brake installed.
 
Why? I have been for years with no I'll effect.
I have and couldn't brake aggressively without locking the rear wheels. Regular putting around wouldn't be a problem.


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I have and couldn't brake aggressively without locking the rear wheels. Regular putting around wouldn't be a problem.

bison said:
Don't ever drive on wet pavement with s10 wheel cylinders.


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Why? I have been for years with no I'll effect.


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I have no issues at all with that setup and I drive in the rain and have yet to have a problem stopping, even when on the brakes hard, although I haven't had to panic stop for a deer or idiot driver yet.


Maybe it's because I keep the ET streets on it and always have more traction than street tires, although heavy downpours with standing water will get my attention pretty quick !
 
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